How to Replace the Radiator Hose on a 2014-2018 Chevrolet Silverado 1500 (Engine: V8 6.2L)
Step-by-step instructions with tools, parts, coolant refill, and leak checks
How to Replace the Radiator Hose on a 2014-2018 Chevrolet Silverado 1500 (Engine: V8 6.2L)
Step-by-step instructions with tools, parts, coolant refill, and leak checks for 2014, 2015, 2016, 2017, 2018
🔧 Radiator Hose - Replacement
This guide covers replacing the radiator hose on your Silverado. I’m assuming you mean the upper radiator hose; the lower hose uses a similar process but is routed differently. You’ll drain some coolant, swap the hose and clamps, then refill and bleed the cooling system so you don’t trap air.
Difficulty Level: Beginner | Estimated Time: 1-2 hours
⚠️ Safety & Precautions
- Let the engine go completely cold before opening the cooling system. Hot coolant can cause severe burns.
- Do not remove the radiator cap or surge tank cap on a hot engine.
- Coolant is toxic. Keep it off skin, paint, and away from pets and children.
- Support the truck on level ground. If you raise the front, use jack stands only.
- No battery disconnect is required for this repair.
🔧 Required Tools
You'll need the following tools for this repair:
- Drain pan
- Flat-blade screwdriver
- Hose clamp pliers
- Pliers
- 10mm socket
- Ratchet
- Extension bar
- Funnel
- Safety glasses
- Nitrile gloves
- Jack stands
- Floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum)
- Shop towels
🔩 Required Parts
HowToo sells all the parts you need for this repair:
- Radiator hose - Qty: 1
- Coolant hose clamps - Qty: 2
- Dex-Cool coolant - Qty: 1-2 gallons
- Distilled water - Qty: 1-2 gallons
📋 Before You Begin
- Park on level ground and set the parking brake.
- Let the engine cool fully.
- Move the front end up only if you need more room under the truck. Use jack stands.
- Keep a drain pan ready before loosening any hose.
🔨 Step-by-Step Instructions
Follow these steps in order:
Step 1: Drain the coolant to a safe level
- Use a drain pan under the radiator drain area.
- Open the radiator drain or remove the lower hose slightly, depending on access, and drain enough coolant so the hose sits below the fluid level.
- If you use the drain plug, turn it slowly by hand first, then use a flat-blade screwdriver only if needed.
- Close the drain once the coolant level is below the hose.
Step 2: Remove the old hose
- Use hose clamp pliers or pliers to slide the spring clamps back on both ends of the hose.
- If your truck has screw clamps, use a flat-blade screwdriver to loosen them.
- Twist the hose gently to break it loose, then pull it off the radiator neck and engine fitting.
- Twist first, then pull.
Step 3: Inspect the fittings
- Use a shop towel to clean the radiator neck and engine pipe.
- Check for cracks, rust, or sharp edges that could damage the new hose.
- Replace the clamp if it is bent, rusty, or weak.
Step 4: Install the new hose
- Compare the new hose to the old one to confirm the shape and length match.
- Slide the clamps onto the hose first before pushing it into place.
- Push the hose fully onto both fittings until it seats against the stop.
- Position the clamps over the original clamp marks.
- If needed, use a small amount of fresh coolant to help the hose slide on.
Step 5: Secure the hose
- Use hose clamp pliers or pliers to move spring clamps into final position.
- Make sure each clamp sits squarely on the hose neck, not on the edge.
- Check that the hose cannot rotate by hand.
Step 6: Refill the cooling system
- Use a funnel to refill with the correct Dex-Cool mix.
- Fill the surge tank slowly to the proper mark.
- Start the engine and let it idle with the heater set to hot.
- Add coolant as the level drops.
- Install the cap once the level stabilizes and no more air bubbles appear.
Step 7: Check for leaks
- Use shop towels to dry the hose and fittings.
- Look closely around both ends of the hose while the engine runs.
- Shut the engine off and recheck the coolant level after it cools.
- Torque to factory specification for any removed brackets or fasteners if your hose routing required bracket removal.
✅ After Repair
- Drive the truck and watch the temperature gauge.
- Recheck coolant level after the first drive and again after the next cold start.
- Inspect for seepage around both hose ends.
- If the heater blows cold or the gauge acts erratic, air may still be trapped in the system.
💰 DIY vs Shop Cost
Shop Cost: $180-$380 (parts + labor)
DIY Cost: $35-$110 (parts only)
You Save: $145-$270 by doing it yourself!
Shop labor rates vary but typically run $100-$150/hour. This repair takes a shop approximately 1-2 hours.
🎯 Ready to get started?
HowToo makes it easy: same-day/2-day shipping on every part, plus all the tools and specialty tools you need! Check out the parts and tools sections below to add everything to your cart.


















