🔧 Legacy - Radiator Hose Replacement

Replacing a radiator hose stops coolant leaks and prevents overheating. You’ll remove the old hose, install the new one, then refill and “burp” (bleed) air from the cooling system so it runs at the correct temperature.

Difficulty Level: Intermediate | Estimated Time: 1.0-2.0 hours

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⚠️ Safety & Precautions

• ⚠️ Never open the cooling system hot; wait until fully cold to avoid burns.
• ⚠️ Support the car with jack stands before working underneath.
• ⚠️ Coolant is toxic; keep away from kids/pets and clean spills immediately.
• ⚠️ Do not mix coolant types; use Subaru-compatible long-life coolant.
• ⚠️ Battery disconnect is not required for this job.

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🔧 Required Tools

You'll need the following tools for this repair:

• Nitrile gloves
• Safety glasses
• Floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum)
• Jack stands (rated 3-ton minimum)
• Wheel chocks
• 10mm socket
• 3/8" drive ratchet
• 6" extension (3/8" drive)
• Trim clip removal tool
• Hose clamp pliers
• Channel-lock pliers
• Pick tool (small)
• Drain pan (at least 10-quart)
• Spill-free funnel kit (specialty)
• Shop rags
• Flashlight

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🔩 Required Parts

HowToo sells all the parts you need for this repair:

• Upper radiator hose - Qty: 1
• Lower radiator hose - Qty: 1
• Radiator hose clamps - Qty: 2-4
• Subaru-compatible premixed coolant (blue long-life) - Qty: 2 gallons
• Distilled water - Qty: 1 gallon

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📋 Before You Begin

• Park on level ground, set the parking brake, and place wheel chocks behind the rear wheels.
• Let the engine go fully cold (radiator hoses should feel cool to the touch).
• Decide which hose you’re doing: the upper hose goes from the top of the radiator to the engine; the lower hose goes from the bottom of the radiator to the engine.
• Tip: Replacing hoses in pairs prevents repeat leaks.

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🔨 Step-by-Step Instructions

Follow these steps in order:

Step 1: Raise the front of the car

• Use a floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum) to lift the front at the center front jack point.
• Set the car onto jack stands (rated 3-ton minimum) at the proper support points.

Step 2: Remove the front lower splash shield (undertray)

• Use a trim clip removal tool to pop out the plastic clips.
• Use a 10mm socket with a 3/8" drive ratchet and 6" extension to remove any 10mm bolts.
• Set the splash shield and clips aside.

Step 3: Drain enough coolant to get below the hose level

• Place a drain pan (at least 10-quart) under the radiator drain area.
• Use channel-lock pliers if needed to gently turn the radiator drain (petcock) and drain coolant.
• Drain until the coolant level is below the hose you’re replacing (upper = less draining; lower = usually more draining).
• Close the drain after draining.

Step 4: Remove the old hose clamp(s)

• Use hose clamp pliers to squeeze the spring clamp tabs and slide the clamp back on the hose.
• If the clamp is the screw type, use a 10mm socket to loosen it and slide it back.
• Tip: Take a photo of clamp positions first.

Step 5: Remove the old radiator hose

• Twist the hose by hand to break it free from the radiator/engine nipple.
• If it’s stuck, carefully work the edge with a pick tool (small) to break the seal.
• Pull the hose off and aim it into the drain pan (some coolant will spill).
• Do not pry hard on the radiator neck; it can crack.

Step 6: Clean and inspect the hose connection points

• Use shop rags to wipe the radiator neck and engine neck clean.
• Use a flashlight to check for cracks, heavy corrosion, or damaged hose beads.
• If a neck is cracked or badly pitted, stop and don’t force a new hose on.

Step 7: Install the new hose

• Slide the clamp(s) onto the new hose before installing (use hose clamp pliers).
• Push the hose fully onto each neck until it seats against the stop/bead.
• Position spring clamps in the same spot as factory (usually behind the raised bead), using hose clamp pliers.
• If using screw clamps, tighten with a 10mm socket: Torque to 3-4 Nm (27-35 in-lbs).
• Tip: Align hose exactly like the old one.

Step 8: Reinstall the splash shield (undertray)

• Reinstall clips using a trim clip removal tool (to line them up) and hand pressure to seat them.
• Reinstall bolts using a 10mm socket with a 3/8" drive ratchet and 6" extension.

Step 9: Refill coolant and bleed air (“burp” the system)

• Remove the radiator cap (only when cold). Use shop rags around the cap for grip and spill control.
• Install a spill-free funnel kit (specialty) into the radiator fill neck.
• Fill with Subaru-compatible premixed coolant (blue long-life) until the funnel level stabilizes.
• Start the engine and set the cabin heat to HOT and fan to LOW.
• Let it idle while watching the funnel: add coolant as the level drops.
• As the engine warms up, gently squeeze the upper radiator hose by hand (with nitrile gloves) to help move trapped air.
• When the radiator fans cycle on and off at least once, air bleeding is usually close.
• Shut the engine off, let it cool, then remove the funnel and reinstall the radiator cap.

Step 10: Set the overflow tank level

• Fill the overflow reservoir to the FULL COLD line using Subaru-compatible premixed coolant (blue long-life).
• Wipe any spills with shop rags.

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✅ After Repair

• Start the engine and check for leaks around both ends of the hose with a flashlight.
• Take a 10-15 minute test drive, then recheck for leaks.
• After the engine cools fully, recheck the overflow tank and top off to FULL COLD.
• Dispose of old coolant at a recycling center; don’t pour it on the ground.

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💰 DIY vs Shop Cost

Shop Cost: $250-$550 (parts + labor)

DIY Cost: $60-$180 (parts only)

You Save: $190-$370 by doing it yourself!

Shop labor rates vary but typically run $100-$150/hour. This repair takes a shop approximately 1.0-2.0 hours.

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🎯 Ready to get started?

HowToo makes it easy: same-day/2-day shipping on every part, plus all the tools and specialty tools you need! Check out the parts and tools sections below to add everything to your cart.