How to Replace the Radiator Hose on a 2013-2016 Ford Escape (Upper or Lower) (Engine: Inline 4 2.0L)
Step-by-step DIY instructions with required tools, parts, coolant refill/bleeding tips, and leak checks
How to Replace the Radiator Hose on a 2013-2016 Ford Escape (Upper or Lower) (Engine: Inline 4 2.0L)
Step-by-step DIY instructions with required tools, parts, coolant refill/bleeding tips, and leak checks for 2013, 2014, 2015, 2016
🔧 Escape - Radiator Hose Replacement
Replacing a radiator hose on your Escape means removing the leaking/cracked hose, transferring any quick-connect fittings (if equipped), and refilling/bleeding the coolant so it doesn’t overheat. On the 2.0L turbo, access can be tight, so take your time and avoid breaking plastic fittings.
Difficulty Level: Intermediate | Estimated Time: 1.0-2.5 hours
⚠️ Safety & Precautions
- ⚠️ Only work on a fully cold engine; hot coolant can cause severe burns.
- ⚠️ Depressurize the cooling system by slowly loosening the coolant reservoir (degas bottle) cap with a rag.
- ⚠️ Support the Escape with jack stands; never rely on a floor jack.
- ⚠️ Keep coolant off belts and electrical connectors; clean spills immediately.
- ⚠️ Coolant is toxic to pets and people; use a drain pan and dispose of properly.
- Battery disconnect is not required for this repair.
🔧 Required Tools
You'll need the following tools for this repair:
- Safety glasses
- Nitrile gloves
- Floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum)
- Jack stands (rated 3-ton minimum)
- Wheel chocks
- Drain pan (at least 2-gallon)
- Funnel
- Pliers
- Hose clamp pliers (specialty)
- Pick tool (small angled)
- Trim clip removal tool
- 7mm socket
- 8mm socket
- 10mm socket
- 1/4" ratchet
- 3" extension
- Torque wrench (in-lb or low-range ft-lb)
- Shop towels
- Work light
🔩 Required Parts
HowToo sells all the parts you need for this repair:
- Radiator hose (upper or lower, as needed) - Qty: 1
- Hose clamps (spring-style or worm-gear, as equipped) - Qty: 2
- Engine coolant (Motorcraft Orange, prediluted 50/50) - Qty: 1-2 gallons
- Replacement splash shield fasteners/clips (optional) - Qty: 1 set
📋 Before You Begin
- Park on level ground, set the parking brake, and chock the rear wheels.
- Let the engine cool completely (best: sit overnight).
- Slowly loosen the coolant reservoir cap to release any leftover pressure, then tighten it back lightly.
- Identify the hose you’re replacing:
- Upper radiator hose: runs from the top of the radiator to the engine/thermostat housing area.
- Lower radiator hose: runs from the bottom of the radiator to the engine/water pump area (usually harder to reach and often accessed from underneath).
🔨 Step-by-Step Instructions
Follow these steps in order:
Step 1: Raise the front (for lower hose access)
- Use floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum) at the front center jack point and lift the front.
- Place jack stands (rated 3-ton minimum) under the proper support points and lower onto them.
- Shake the vehicle lightly to confirm stable.
Step 2: Remove the lower splash shield (if equipped)
- Use a trim clip removal tool to remove push clips.
- Use a 7mm socket or 8mm socket with a 1/4" ratchet to remove any shield screws.
- Set the shield and hardware aside in a tray.
Step 3: Drain enough coolant to get below hose level
- Place a drain pan (at least 2-gallon) under the radiator area.
- If accessible, open the radiator drain with pliers (some trims use a plastic drain; turn gently).
- If the drain isn’t accessible, you can drain by loosening the lower hose clamp slowly (next step) and letting coolant flow into the pan.
- Use shop towels to catch spills.
Step 4: Remove the hose clamps
- Use hose clamp pliers (specialty) to compress spring clamps, then slide them back on the hose.
- If equipped with screw-type clamps, loosen with a 8mm socket and 1/4" ratchet.
- Take a photo of clamp positions first.
Step 5: Disconnect the hose (do not pry hard)
- Twist the hose by hand to break it loose, then pull it off.
- If it’s stuck, use a pick tool (small angled) to gently lift the edge of the hose off the fitting to break the seal.
- Do not pry against plastic necks; they can crack.
Step 6: Remove the hose and compare parts
- Remove the hose fully (top hose usually comes out from above; lower hose usually comes out from below).
- Compare the new hose to the old hose: same length, bends, and end shapes.
- If your hose has a quick-connect end, make sure the new one includes the same style connector and new O-ring (if supplied).
Step 7: Install the new hose
- Slide the clamps onto the hose first.
- Push the hose fully onto the fittings until it bottoms out against the stop bead.
- Reposition the clamps in the same locations as original.
- Use hose clamp pliers (specialty) to set spring clamps.
- If using screw clamps, tighten with a 8mm socket and 1/4" ratchet until snug; do not crush the hose.
Step 8: Reinstall splash shield
- Reinstall the shield using a 7mm socket or 8mm socket with a 1/4" ratchet.
- Reinstall push clips using a trim clip removal tool to align holes.
- Torque to 5 Nm (44 in-lbs) for small shield screws.
Step 9: Refill coolant
- Open the coolant reservoir cap.
- Use a funnel and add Engine coolant (Motorcraft Orange, prediluted 50/50) to the MAX line.
- Squeeze the upper radiator hose by hand a few times to help burp trapped air.
Step 10: Bleed air and check for leaks
- Start the engine and let it idle.
- Set HVAC to full heat: Max heat and fan medium.
- Watch the coolant level in the reservoir; add coolant as the level drops.
- Use a work light to inspect both hose ends for seepage.
- When the cooling fan cycles on and off at least once, shut the engine off and let it cool.
Step 11: Recheck level after cool-down
- After the Escape is fully cool, open the reservoir cap and top off to the MAX line.
- Check again for leaks around both clamps.
✅ After Repair
- Test drive 10-15 minutes, then recheck for leaks with a work light.
- After the next cold start (next morning), recheck coolant level and top off if needed.
- If you get a high-temp warning or no cabin heat, stop driving and recheck for trapped air or leaks.
💰 DIY vs Shop Cost
Shop Cost: $250-$550 (parts + labor)
DIY Cost: $40-$140 (parts only)
You Save: $210-$410 by doing it yourself!
Shop labor rates vary but typically run $100-$150/hour. This repair takes a shop approximately 1.0-2.0 hours.
🎯 Ready to get started?
HowToo makes it easy: same-day/2-day shipping on every part, plus all the tools and specialty tools you need! Check out the parts and tools sections below to add everything to your cart.


















