How to Replace the Radiator Hose on a 2011-2016 Ford F-350 Super Duty (Engine: V8 6.2L)
Step-by-step upper/lower hose swap with tools, parts list, coolant refill/bleeding, and leak checks
How to Replace the Radiator Hose on a 2011-2016 Ford F-350 Super Duty (Engine: V8 6.2L)
Step-by-step upper/lower hose swap with tools, parts list, coolant refill/bleeding, and leak checks for 2011, 2012, 2013, 2014, 2015, 2016
🔧 F-350 Super Duty - Radiator Hose Replacement
Replacing a radiator hose stops coolant leaks and prevents overheating. The job is mostly about safely relieving pressure, draining enough coolant, and swapping the hose without damaging the radiator/engine fittings.
Difficulty Level: Intermediate | Estimated Time: 1-2 hours
Assumption: You’re replacing either the upper or lower radiator hose on the 6.2L; steps below cover both.
⚠️ Safety & Precautions
- ⚠️ Never open the coolant cap on a hot engine; hot coolant can spray and burn you.
- ⚠️ Support the truck with jack stands if you go underneath; never rely on a jack.
- ⚠️ Keep coolant off paint and away from pets; it’s toxic and slippery.
- ⚠️ Let the cooling fan stop completely before working near it.
- ⚠️ Battery disconnect is not required for this repair.
🔧 Required Tools
You'll need the following tools for this repair:
- Safety glasses
- Nitrile gloves
- Drain pan (at least 3 gallons)
- Funnel
- Shop rags
- Hose clamp pliers (specialty)
- Slip-joint pliers
- Pick tool (specialty)
- Flathead screwdriver
- 8mm socket
- 10mm socket
- 1/4" drive ratchet
- 3" extension
- Trim clip removal tool
- Floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum)
- Jack stands (rated 3-ton minimum)
- Wheel chocks
🔩 Required Parts
HowToo sells all the parts you need for this repair:
- Upper radiator hose - Qty: 1
- Lower radiator hose - Qty: 1
- Radiator hose clamps - Qty: 2
- Engine coolant (Ford-approved, pre-mixed 50/50) - Qty: 2-3 gallons
📋 Before You Begin
- Park on level ground, set the parking brake, and chock the rear wheels.
- Let the engine cool fully (ideally 2+ hours).
- Set the HVAC to full HOT later during bleeding (this helps purge air from the heater core).
- If you need access from below for the lower hose, lift the front with a floor jack and set it on jack stands at the frame.
🔨 Step-by-Step Instructions
Follow these steps in order:
Step 1: Relieve cooling system pressure (cold engine only)
- Put on nitrile gloves and safety glasses.
- Place shop rags around the coolant degas bottle/cap area.
- Slowly loosen the coolant cap by hand to the first stop to vent any leftover pressure, then remove it fully.
Step 2: Drain enough coolant to get below hose level
- Position a drain pan (at least 3 gallons) under the radiator drain area.
- If equipped with an accessible drain cock, open it carefully by hand or with a flathead screwdriver (only if it has a screwdriver slot) and drain 1-2 gallons.
- If there’s no easy drain access, you can drain from the lower hose in Step 5—just be ready for a larger spill.
Step 3: Remove the intake ducting for access (if it blocks the upper hose)
- Use an 8mm socket with a 1/4" drive ratchet to loosen the intake tube clamps as needed.
- Release any plastic retainers with a trim clip removal tool.
- Move the ducting aside without straining any wiring.
Step 4: Identify the hose you’re replacing
- Upper radiator hose: runs from the top of the radiator to the thermostat/water outlet on the engine.
- Lower radiator hose: runs from the bottom of the radiator to the water pump inlet area; access is often easier from underneath.
Step 5: Release the hose clamps
- Use hose clamp pliers (specialty) to compress the factory spring clamps. (These pliers lock and hold the clamp open so your hands stay safe.)
- Slide each clamp back onto the hose, about 2-3 inches away from the fitting.
- If your truck has worm-gear clamps instead, loosen them with an 8mm socket or flathead screwdriver.
Step 6: Break the hose loose without damaging the radiator neck
- Twist the hose gently by hand to break the seal.
- If it’s stuck, use a pick tool (specialty) to carefully lift the hose edge and let air in, then twist again.
- Do not pry hard against the radiator neck; it can crack.
Step 7: Remove the old hose and control the spill
- Pull the hose off the fitting while holding it aimed into the drain pan.
- Use shop rags to catch drips around the fan shroud and belts.
Step 8: Prep the fittings and compare parts
- Wipe the radiator neck and engine fitting clean using shop rags.
- Confirm the new hose matches the old one for length, bends, and end diameter.
- Install new clamps onto the new hose before you put the hose on the truck.
Step 9: Install the new hose
- Push the hose fully onto the radiator neck until it bottoms out.
- Push the other end fully onto the engine-side fitting.
- Position the clamps centered over the fitting bead (the raised ridge), then release using hose clamp pliers (specialty) or tighten using an 8mm socket.
- Tip: Misplaced clamps cause repeat leaks.
Step 10: Reinstall removed components
- Reinstall intake ducting and clips using the trim clip removal tool.
- Tighten intake clamps using an 8mm socket and 1/4" drive ratchet.
Step 11: Refill coolant
- Close the drain cock by hand (snug only) if you opened it.
- Use a funnel to refill the degas bottle with Ford-approved, pre-mixed 50/50 coolant to the MAX line.
- If you drained a lot, refill slowly to reduce trapped air.
Step 12: Bleed air and verify no leaks
- Start the engine and let it idle with the coolant cap off for a few minutes while watching the coolant level.
- Set heat to full HOT and fan to medium.
- As the thermostat opens, the level may drop; add coolant using the funnel to maintain level.
- Once bubbles reduce and the level stabilizes, install the cap by hand.
- Let the engine reach normal operating temperature and inspect both hose ends for leaks using a light and safety glasses.
✅ After Repair
- Recheck coolant level after the first full heat-soak cycle (drive, cool down completely), then top off to the MAX line using a funnel.
- Inspect for dried coolant residue or wetness at both hose connections.
- Watch the temp gauge on the first drive; shut down if it overheats.
- Dispose of old coolant properly (sealed container; recycling center/auto parts store).
💰 DIY vs Shop Cost
Shop Cost: $250-$550 (parts + labor)
DIY Cost: $60-$180 (parts only)
You Save: $190-$370 by doing it yourself!
Shop labor rates vary but typically run $100-$150/hour. This repair takes a shop approximately 1.0-1.8 hours.
🎯 Ready to get started?
HowToo makes it easy: same-day/2-day shipping on every part, plus all the tools and specialty tools you need! Check out the parts and tools sections below to add everything to your cart.
Guide for Radiator Coolant Hose replace for these Ford vehicles
| Year Make Model | Sub Model | Engine | Body Style |
|---|---|---|---|
| 2016 Ford F-350 Super Duty | - | V8 6.2L | - |
| 2015 Ford F-350 Super Duty | - | V8 6.2L | - |
| 2014 Ford F-350 Super Duty | - | V8 6.2L | - |
| 2013 Ford F-350 Super Duty | - | V8 6.2L | - |
| 2012 Ford F-350 Super Duty | - | V8 6.2L | - |
| 2011 Ford F-350 Super Duty | - | V8 6.2L | - |


















