Assumption: This covers replacing the main radiator hose on your Sequoia. If you mean the upper or lower hose specifically, the clamp locations are the only major difference.

🔧 Radiator Hose - Hose Replacement

Your radiator hose carries coolant between the engine and radiator. Replacing a cracked, swollen, or leaking hose prevents overheating and coolant loss. On your Sequoia, the job is straightforward, but you must drain enough coolant first so you do not spill it when the hose comes off.

Difficulty Level: Beginner | Estimated Time: 1-2 hours

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⚠️ Safety & Precautions

• Work only when the engine is completely cold. Hot coolant can spray and cause severe burns.
• Use jack stands if you need to reach the lower hose from underneath. Never rely on a jack alone.
• Keep coolant away from pets and children. It is toxic.
• Do not open the radiator cap on a hot engine.
• Disconnect the negative battery cable only if you need extra access near the electric fans.

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🔧 Required Tools

You'll need the following tools for this repair:

• 10mm socket
• Ratchet
• Extension bar
• Hose clamp pliers
• Pliers
• Flat-head screwdriver
• Drain pan
• Funnel
• Shop towels
• Safety glasses
• Nitrile gloves
• Jack stands
• Floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum)

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🔩 Required Parts

HowToo sells all the parts you need for this repair:

• Radiator hose - Qty: 1
• Radiator hose clamps - Qty: 2
• Toyota Super Long Life Coolant - Qty: 2-3 gallons

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📋 Before You Begin

• Park on level ground and set the parking brake.
• Let the engine cool fully before opening the cooling system.
• Place a drain pan under the radiator before loosening any hose clamps.
• If you need room below, raise the front end and support it with jack stands.
• Take a quick photo of the hose routing first.

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🔨 Step-by-Step Instructions

Follow these steps in order:

Step 1: Drain coolant to a safe level

• Use a drain pan under the radiator drain area.
• Open the radiator drain cock slightly and drain enough coolant so the hose level is below the hose connection.
• Close the drain cock when done.

Step 2: Remove any access covers

• Use a 10mm socket and ratchet to remove any splash shields or intake ducting blocking the hose.
• Set the fasteners aside in order so they go back in the same spots.

Step 3: Release the old hose clamps

• Use hose clamp pliers or pliers to compress the spring clamps.
• Slide the clamps away from the hose ends.
• If the hose is stuck, gently break it free with a flat-head screwdriver.

Step 4: Remove the old hose

• Twist the hose by hand to break the seal, then pull it off the radiator and engine necks.
• If it will not move, use the screwdriver carefully under the hose lip. Do not damage the metal tube.
• Wipe the fittings clean with shop towels.

Step 5: Install the new hose

• Compare the new hose to the old one to confirm shape and length.
• Push the hose fully onto both fittings until it seats against the stop.
• Install the new clamps in the same positions as the originals. Use hose clamp pliers or pliers.
• Make sure the clamps sit behind the bead on the neck.

Step 6: Reinstall removed parts

• Use the 10mm socket and ratchet to reinstall any covers, ducts, or shields you removed.
• Check that nothing rubs the hose.

Step 7: Refill the cooling system

• Use a funnel to refill with Toyota Super Long Life Coolant.
• Fill the radiator and overflow tank to the proper level.
• Leave the radiator cap off for the initial bleed if needed.

Step 8: Bleed air from the system

• Start the engine and let it idle with the heater set to HOT.
• Watch the coolant level and add more as air escapes.
• When the upper hose gets warm and the coolant level stabilizes, install the radiator cap.

Step 9: Check for leaks

• Inspect both hose ends with a flashlight while the engine runs.
• Look for drips at the clamps, radiator neck, and engine connection.
• Shut the engine off and recheck after a short road test.

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✅ After Repair

• Recheck coolant level after the engine fully cools.
• Top off the overflow tank if needed.
• Watch the temperature gauge on the first drive.
• Reinspect for leaks after one full heat cycle.

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💰 DIY vs Shop Cost

Shop Cost: $220-$480 (parts + labor)

DIY Cost: $60-$140 (parts only)

You Save: $160-$340 by doing it yourself!

Shop labor rates vary but typically run $100-$150/hour. This repair takes a shop approximately 1-2 hours.

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🎯 Ready to get started?

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