🔧 Patriot - Power Steering Pump Replacement

You’ll remove the belt-driven power steering pump, swap it with a new one, then refill and bleed the system so it doesn’t whine or foam. The key is keeping dirt out of the hoses and bleeding all air out after installation.

Difficulty Level: Intermediate | Estimated Time: 2-4 hours

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⚠️ Safety & Precautions

• ⚠️ Work on a cool engine; hot exhaust/coolant can burn you.
• ⚠️ Support the Patriot with jack stands; never rely on a jack alone.
• ⚠️ Power steering fluid is slippery and flammable—clean spills immediately.
• ⚠️ Keep the pump ports/hoses capped; dirt can destroy the new pump quickly.
• ⚠️ Battery disconnect is recommended before working near the belt and alternator: remove the negative battery terminal.

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🔧 Required Tools

You'll need the following tools for this repair:

• Safety glasses
• Nitrile gloves
• Floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum)
• Jack stands (rated 3-ton minimum)
• Wheel chocks
• 3/8" drive ratchet
• 1/2" drive breaker bar
• Socket set 8mm-18mm
• Wrench set 8mm-18mm
• Flare nut wrench set 13mm-18mm
• Serpentine belt tool (3/8" drive) (specialty)
• Torque wrench (10-150 ft-lbs range)
• Flat trim tool
• Drain pan (at least 2-gallon)
• Fluid transfer syringe
• Funnel
• Shop rags
• Brake cleaner spray
• Hose pinch-off pliers (specialty)

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🔩 Required Parts

HowToo sells all the parts you need for this repair:

• Power steering pump - Qty: 1
• Power steering pump O-ring / sealing washer kit - Qty: 1
• Power steering fluid (Mopar-approved for Patriot) - Qty: 2 quarts
• Serpentine drive belt - Qty: 1 (recommended if old/cracked)

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📋 Before You Begin

• Park on level ground, set the parking brake, and chock the rear wheels.
• Disconnect the battery: use a 10mm socket to remove the negative terminal and tuck it aside.
• Raise the front and support with jack stands so you can turn the steering wheel later during bleeding.
• Use a fluid transfer syringe (hand pump) to suck old fluid from the reservoir to reduce mess.

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🔨 Step-by-Step Instructions

Follow these steps in order:

Step 1: Remove the splash shield (if equipped)

• Place a drain pan under the front of the engine bay.
• Use a flat trim tool to pop plastic clips, and use the appropriate socket set 8mm-18mm fasteners if bolts are used.

Step 2: Relieve serpentine belt tension and remove the belt from the pump pulley

• Use a serpentine belt tool (3/8" drive) (specialty) (a long handle that turns the belt tensioner) to rotate the tensioner and release belt tension.
• Slip the belt off the power steering pump pulley first, then slowly release the tensioner.
• Take a quick photo of belt routing.

Step 3: Disconnect the power steering hoses from the pump

• Clean around the fittings with brake cleaner spray and shop rags so dirt can’t enter.
• Use hose pinch-off pliers (specialty) on the return hose if accessible to reduce fluid loss.
• Use a flare nut wrench set 13mm-18mm to loosen the pressure line fitting. (A flare nut wrench wraps more of the nut so you don’t round it.)
• Use the appropriate wrench set 8mm-18mm to loosen the return hose clamp (if clamp type) and pull the hose off carefully.
• Let fluid drain into the drain pan.

Step 4: Remove the power steering pump

• Remove the pump mounting bolts using a socket set 8mm-18mm and 3/8" drive ratchet.
• Support the pump with one hand as the last bolt comes out.
• Lift the pump out and keep the ports facing up to reduce spills.

Step 5: Transfer parts to the new pump (if needed)

• If the new pump does not include a pulley or fittings, transfer them exactly as removed using the correct socket set 8mm-18mm and wrench set 8mm-18mm.
• Install new seals from the O-ring / sealing washer kit. Lightly wet the O-ring with fresh power steering fluid before installing.

Step 6: Install the new power steering pump

• Position the pump and hand-start all mounting bolts.
• Tighten mounting bolts evenly using a torque wrench (10-150 ft-lbs range): Torque to factory specification.

Step 7: Reconnect the hoses/lines

• Start the pressure line by hand first to avoid cross-threading.
• Tighten the pressure fitting using a flare nut wrench set 13mm-18mm: Torque to factory specification.
• Reinstall the return hose and clamp using the appropriate wrench set 8mm-18mm: Torque to factory specification (or tighten clamp snug if it’s a worm-gear clamp).
• Wipe everything clean with shop rags.

Step 8: Reinstall the serpentine belt

• Route the belt correctly, then use the serpentine belt tool (3/8" drive) (specialty) to rotate the tensioner.
• Slip the belt onto the power steering pump pulley last, then slowly release the tensioner.
• Visually confirm the belt is fully seated in every pulley groove.

Step 9: Refill fluid and bleed the system (remove air)

• Reconnect the battery negative terminal using a 10mm socket: Torque to factory specification.
• Fill the reservoir using a funnel with power steering fluid (Mopar-approved for Patriot) to the COLD mark.
• With the front wheels still off the ground and engine OFF, slowly turn the steering wheel lock-to-lock 10–15 times. Add fluid as the level drops.
• Start the engine and let it idle. Do not hold the wheel at full lock.
• Slowly turn lock-to-lock 5–10 more times while watching for foaming. Top off as needed.
• Foam means air—keep bleeding.

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✅ After Repair

• Check for leaks at the pressure fitting and return hose with the engine idling.
• Lower the Patriot, then road-test in a parking lot and verify steering is smooth and quiet.
• Recheck fluid level after the test drive and top off to the HOT mark if applicable.
• If you hear whining or see bubbles, repeat the bleeding procedure.

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💰 DIY vs Shop Cost

Shop Cost: $550-$1,050 (parts + labor)

DIY Cost: $150-$450 (parts only)

You Save: $400-$600 by doing it yourself!

Shop labor rates vary but typically run $100-$150/hour. This repair takes a shop approximately 2-3 hours.

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🎯 Ready to get started?

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