🔧 Journey - Power Steering Pump Replacement

You’ll remove the belt-driven power steering pump, swap it with a new unit, and refill/bleed the system so the steering is quiet and smooth. Most of the work is access, keeping fluid off the belt, and properly bleeding air out of the system.

Difficulty Level: Advanced | Estimated Time: 2.5-4.5 hours

Assumption: your Journey uses a belt-driven hydraulic power steering pump.

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⚠️ Safety & Precautions

• ⚠️ Work on a cool engine; hot exhaust and coolant pipes can burn you.
• ⚠️ Support the vehicle with jack stands; never rely on a floor jack alone.
• ⚠️ Power steering fluid/ATF is slippery and flammable; wipe spills immediately.
• ⚠️ Keep fluid off the serpentine belt and pulleys to prevent squeal and belt damage.
• ⚠️ Do not hold the steering at full lock during bleeding; it can overheat the fluid.
• ⚠️ Battery disconnect is recommended to prevent accidental cranking.

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🔧 Required Tools

You'll need the following tools for this repair:

• Safety glasses
• Nitrile gloves
• Floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum)
• Jack stands (rated 3-ton minimum)
• Wheel chocks
• Drain pan (at least 2-gallon)
• Funnel
• Shop rags
• Plastic trim clip remover
• Flathead screwdriver
• Serpentine belt tool (specialty)
• 3/8" drive ratchet
• 1/2" drive breaker bar
• Socket set 8mm-18mm
• Wrench set 10mm-18mm
• Line wrench set 16mm-18mm
• Torque wrench (10-200 Nm range)
• Power steering pulley puller/installer kit (specialty)
• Hose pinch-off pliers (specialty)
• Catch bottles
• Flashlight

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🔩 Required Parts

HowToo sells all the parts you need for this repair:

• Power steering pump - Qty: 1
• Power steering pump O-ring / sealing washers (pressure line seal kit) - Qty: 1
• Power steering fluid (ATF+4 compatible) - Qty: 2 quarts
• Serpentine belt - Qty: 1
• Power steering reservoir return hose clamp - Qty: 1

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📋 Before You Begin

• Park on level ground, set the parking brake, and chock the rear wheels.
• Disconnect the negative battery cable using a 10mm socket and tuck it aside.
• Raise the front of the vehicle with a floor jack and support with jack stands so the front wheels can turn freely during bleeding.
• Place a drain pan under the pump area and keep shop rags ready.
• Take a quick photo of belt routing.

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🔨 Step-by-Step Instructions

Follow these steps in order:

Step 1: Remove the lower splash shield (if equipped)

• Use a plastic trim clip remover and flathead screwdriver to remove the push-clips/screws from the lower splash shield.
• Set the shield and clips aside so you don’t lose them.

Step 2: Relieve serpentine belt tension and remove the belt from the pump

• Use a serpentine belt tool (a long handled wrench made for belt tensioners) to rotate the belt tensioner and relieve tension.
• Slip the belt off the power steering pump pulley first, then slowly release the tensioner.
• If you’re replacing the belt, remove it fully and set it aside.

Step 3: Drain the power steering fluid

• Position a drain pan under the pump and hoses.
• Use hose pinch-off pliers (specialty) to gently clamp the reservoir return hose (this reduces the mess).
• Release the return hose clamp using pliers, then pull the return hose off and aim it into the drain pan.
• Turn the steering wheel slowly left-to-right by hand to help push old fluid out.

Step 4: Disconnect the pressure line at the pump

• Clean the fitting area with shop rags so dirt doesn’t enter the system.
• Use the correct line wrench (a wrench that grips more sides of the nut to prevent rounding) to loosen the high-pressure line fitting at the pump.
• Cap/cover the open line end with a clean rag to keep dirt out.
• Remove and discard old seals/O-rings or sealing washers from the fitting.

Step 5: Remove the power steering pump mounting bolts

• Use a ratchet with the appropriate socket to remove the pump mounting bolts.
• Support the pump as the last bolt comes out, then lift the pump out of the engine bay.

Step 6: Transfer the pulley (if your replacement pump does not include one)

• Use a power steering pulley puller/installer kit (specialty) to pull the pulley off the old pump.
• Install the pulley onto the new pump using the installer from the same kit.
• Press the pulley on straight until it aligns with the other belt pulleys.
• If the pulley is crooked, the belt will walk off.

Step 7: Install the new pump

• Position the new pump and start all mounting bolts by hand to avoid cross-threading.
• Tighten the bolts evenly using a ratchet, then finish with a torque wrench.
• Torque to 54 Nm (40 ft-lbs) for the pump mounting bolts.

Step 8: Reconnect the pressure line with new seals

• Install the new O-ring/sealing washers from your seal kit on the pressure fitting.
• Thread the pressure line fitting in by hand first, then tighten with a line wrench.
• Torque to 31 Nm (23 ft-lbs) for the pressure line fitting.

Step 9: Reconnect the return hose

• Push the return hose fully onto the pump/reservoir nipple.
• Secure it with a new clamp using pliers (or tighten with a flathead screwdriver if it’s a worm-gear style clamp).
• Remove the hose pinch-off pliers (specialty).

Step 10: Reinstall the serpentine belt

• Route the belt using your photo reference.
• Use the serpentine belt tool to rotate the tensioner, slip the belt onto the power steering pulley, then slowly release the tensioner.
• Double-check the belt is centered in every pulley groove using a flashlight.

Step 11: Refill the system

• Add power steering fluid (ATF+4 compatible) using a funnel until it reaches the “COLD” mark.
• Leave the cap off for the initial bleed.

Step 12: Bleed air out of the power steering

• With the engine OFF and front wheels off the ground, turn the steering wheel slowly from stop to stop 10-15 times.
• Keep the fluid level above the minimum; add fluid with a funnel as needed.
• Reconnect the negative battery cable using a 10mm socket. Torque to 7 Nm (62 in-lbs).
• Start the engine and let it idle. Do not rev it.
• Turn the wheel slowly left-to-right 5-10 times, never holding at full lock.
• Shut the engine off, wait 2 minutes, then recheck level and top off to the correct mark.
• Foamy fluid means air is still inside.

Step 13: Reinstall the splash shield and lower the vehicle

• Reinstall the splash shield using the plastic trim clip remover and flathead screwdriver.
• Lower the vehicle from the jack stands using the floor jack.

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✅ After Repair

• Start the engine and check for leaks at the pressure fitting and return hose connections.
• Verify steering is smooth and quiet in a parking lot at low speed.
• Recheck the fluid level after a 10-15 minute drive and top off as needed.
• If you hear whining or see bubbles/foam, repeat the bleeding steps until clear.
• Dispose of old fluid properly (most parts stores accept waste fluids).

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💰 DIY vs Shop Cost

Shop Cost: $550-$1,050 (parts + labor)

DIY Cost: $180-$450 (parts only)

You Save: $370-$600 by doing it yourself!

Shop labor rates vary but typically run $100-$150/hour. This repair takes a shop approximately 2.5-4.0 hours.

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🎯 Ready to get started?

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