How to Replace the Power Steering Pump on a 2016 Chevrolet Traverse
Step-by-step removal and install with required tools, parts list, torque specs, and bleeding procedure
How to Replace the Power Steering Pump on a 2016 Chevrolet Traverse
Step-by-step removal and install with required tools, parts list, torque specs, and bleeding procedure


đź”§ Traverse - Power Steering Pump Replacement
Your Traverse uses a belt-driven hydraulic power steering pump to create steering assist pressure. Replacing it means removing the serpentine belt from the pump, swapping the pump (and usually the pulley), then refilling and bleeding the system to remove air.
Difficulty Level: Advanced | Estimated Time: 2.5-4.5 hours
Assumption: replacement pump does not include the pulley.
⚠️ Safety & Precautions
- 🛑 Support the SUV with jack stands on solid, level ground—never rely on a jack.
- 🛑 Keep hands/tools clear of the belt path; never run the engine near exposed belts.
- 🛑 Power steering fluid is slippery and can damage rubber—wipe spills immediately.
- 🛑 Let the engine cool before working near the radiator/fans and front cover.
- 🛑 Wear safety glasses; pressurized fluid can spray when lines are loosened.
- 🛑 Battery disconnect is not required, but keep the key off and avoid bump-starting.
đź”§ Required Tools
You'll need the following tools for this repair:
- Safety glasses
- Nitrile gloves
- Floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum)
- Jack stands (rated 3-ton minimum)
- Wheel chocks
- Drain pan (at least 2-gallon)
- Shop rags
- Funnel
- Trim clip tool
- Serpentine belt tool
- 3/8" drive ratchet
- 1/2" drive ratchet
- Socket set (8mm-18mm)
- Torque wrench (10-100 ft-lbs)
- Line wrench set (16mm-18mm)
- Hose clamp pliers
- Pick tool
- Power steering pulley puller/installer kit (specialty)
- Pliers
- Flat-blade screwdriver
- Flashlight
🔩 Required Parts
HowToo sells all the parts you need for this repair:
- Power steering pump - Qty: 1
- Power steering pump pulley - Qty: 1
- Power steering pressure line O-ring seal - Qty: 1
- Power steering return hose clamp - Qty: 1
- Power steering fluid (GM-approved) - Qty: 2 quarts
- Serpentine belt - Qty: 1
đź“‹ Before You Begin
- đź§° Park on level ground, set the parking brake, and install wheel chocks.
- đź§° Raise the front end with a floor jack and support with jack stands so the front wheels can turn freely for bleeding.
- đź§° Place a drain pan under the pump/hoses area and lay down shop rags.
- 🧰 If you’re new to it: a line wrench is a “box-end” wrench with a slot that grips hydraulic fittings better and helps prevent rounding.
- 🧰 If you’re new to it: a pulley puller/installer removes and presses on the pulley without cracking it.
🔨 Step-by-Step Instructions
Follow these steps in order:
Step 1: Remove covers for access
- Use a trim clip tool and socket set (8mm-10mm) to remove any upper engine cover and the front upper air deflector (if equipped).
- Use a flashlight to locate the power steering pump and serpentine belt routing.
- Take a picture of belt routing.
Step 2: Relieve belt tension and move the belt off the pump
- Use a serpentine belt tool (or 1/2" drive ratchet, if your tensioner accepts it) to rotate the belt tensioner and relieve tension.
- Slide the belt off the power steering pump pulley and slowly release the tensioner.
- If you’re replacing the belt, remove it fully and set aside.
Step 3: Drain the reservoir and disconnect the return hose
- Position the drain pan under the return hose area.
- Use hose clamp pliers to compress the clamp and slide it back on the return hose.
- Twist the hose gently to break it free, then pull it off the reservoir/pump nipple and let it drain into the pan.
- Use shop rags to catch residual drips.
Step 4: Disconnect the pressure line from the pump
- Use a line wrench (16mm-18mm) to loosen the high-pressure line fitting at the pump.
- Once loose, finish by hand and aim the line into the drain pan.
- Remove and discard the old pressure line O-ring seal; use a pick tool carefully if needed.
- Do not bend the hard line.
Step 5: Remove the pump mounting bolts and remove the pump
- Use a socket set (13mm-15mm) with a 3/8" drive ratchet to remove the power steering pump mounting bolts.
- Support the pump with one hand as the last bolt comes out.
- Remove the pump from the bracket/engine bay.
Step 6: Transfer the pulley (if required)
- Mount the old pump securely (on the ground or held steady) and use the power steering pulley puller/installer kit (specialty) to pull the pulley off.
- Use the same pulley puller/installer kit (specialty) to press the pulley onto the new pump.
- Press the pulley until it sits flush and aligned with the other pulleys (the kit’s instructions show correct depth).
- Never hammer a pulley on.
Step 7: Install the new pump
- Position the new pump and start the mounting bolts by hand.
- Use a socket set (13mm-15mm) and torque wrench to tighten the pump mounting bolts: Torque to 25 Nm (18 ft-lbs).
Step 8: Reconnect the pressure line and return hose
- Lightly coat the new pressure line O-ring seal with fresh power steering fluid using a shop rag, then install it on the fitting.
- Thread the pressure line fitting in by hand first to prevent cross-threading.
- Use a line wrench (16mm-18mm) and torque wrench to tighten the pressure line fitting: Torque to 30 Nm (22 ft-lbs).
- Reinstall the return hose and position the clamp using hose clamp pliers.
Step 9: Reinstall the serpentine belt
- Route the belt using your photo as reference.
- Use the serpentine belt tool to rotate the tensioner and slip the belt onto the power steering pump pulley last.
- Double-check the belt is fully seated in every pulley groove using a flashlight.
Step 10: Fill and bleed the power steering system
- Use a funnel to fill the reservoir with GM-approved power steering fluid to the correct level mark.
- With the front wheels still off the ground and engine OFF, turn the steering wheel slowly from lock-to-lock 10–15 times (lock-to-lock means full left to full right).
- Recheck fluid level and top off as needed.
- Start the engine and let it idle; do not rev.
- Turn the wheel slowly lock-to-lock 5–10 more times. Watch for foaming (air) in the reservoir.
- Shut the engine off, let bubbles settle for 5 minutes, then recheck and top off.
- Small bubbles are normal at first.
Step 11: Reinstall covers and lower the vehicle
- Reinstall any covers/deflectors using the trim clip tool and socket set (8mm-10mm).
- Lower the SUV from jack stands using the floor jack.
- Wipe any spilled fluid using shop rags.
âś… After Repair
- đź§Ş With the engine idling, confirm the steering is smooth and quiet in both directions.
- đź§Ş Check for leaks at the pressure fitting and return hose connection using a flashlight.
- 🧪 Verify fluid level after a 10–15 minute test drive; top off with GM-approved power steering fluid if needed.
- đź§Ş If the fluid stays foamy or the pump whines after bleeding, repeat the lock-to-lock bleed with the front wheels off the ground.
đź’° DIY vs Shop Cost
Shop Cost: $650-$1,050 (parts + labor)
DIY Cost: $180-$420 (parts only)
You Save: $470-$630 by doing it yourself!
Shop labor rates vary but typically run $100-$150/hour. This repair takes a shop approximately 2.5-4.0 hours.
🎯 Ready to get started?
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