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2013 Subaru Forester
2013 Subaru Forester
XT Touring - Flat 4 2.5L
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DIY: Subaru Forester Power Steering Pump Tutorial

DIY: Subaru Forester Power Steering Pump Tutorial

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Safety
Safety
Glasses
Nitrile
Nitrile
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2 Ton
2 Ton
Floor Jack
2 Ton
2 Ton
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How to Replace the Power Steering Pump on a 2013 Subaru Forester

Step-by-step instructions with required tools, parts, torque specs, fluid fill and bleeding tips

How to Replace the Power Steering Pump on a 2013 Subaru Forester

Step-by-step instructions with required tools, parts, torque specs, fluid fill and bleeding tips

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Orion Logo White

đź”§ Forester - Power Steering Pump Replacement

On your Forester, the power steering pump creates hydraulic pressure so the steering stays light and smooth. Replacement is usually needed for leaks, whining noise, or a seized pulley bearing.

Difficulty Level: Intermediate | Estimated Time: 2-4 hours


⚠️ Safety & Precautions

  • 🛑 Work on a cool engine—hot exhaust/turbo parts can burn you.
  • 🛑 Support the vehicle with jack stands if you lift it; never rely on a jack.
  • 🛑 Power steering fluid/ATF is flammable—keep away from sparks and wipe spills.
  • 🛑 Keep fluid off the alternator and drive belt (it can cause belt slip).
  • 🛑 Battery disconnect is recommended before working near the alternator.

đź”§ Required Tools

You'll need the following tools for this repair:

  • Safety glasses
  • Nitrile gloves
  • Floor jack (rated 2-ton minimum)
  • Jack stands (rated 2-ton minimum)
  • Wheel chocks
  • 10mm socket
  • 12mm socket
  • 14mm socket
  • 10mm combination wrench
  • 12mm combination wrench
  • 14mm combination wrench
  • 17mm flare-nut wrench
  • 3/8" drive ratchet
  • 3/8" drive extension set
  • Torque wrench (5–80 Nm range)
  • Serpentine belt tool or 14mm long wrench
  • Pliers (hose clamp pliers)
  • Flat-blade screwdriver
  • Drain pan (at least 6-quart)
  • Fluid transfer pump or funnel
  • Shop rags
  • Brake cleaner spray

🔩 Required Parts

HowToo sells all the parts you need for this repair:

  • Power steering pump - Qty: 1
  • Power steering pressure line sealing washers - Qty: 2
  • Power steering return hose clamp - Qty: 1
  • Power steering fluid (ATF Dexron III/Mercon compatible) - Qty: 2 quarts
  • Accessory drive belt - Qty: 1

đź“‹ Before You Begin

  • Park on level ground, set the parking brake, and chock the rear wheels.
  • Open the hood and locate the power steering reservoir (cap usually says “Power Steering”).
  • Disconnect the battery negative terminal using a 10mm socket.
  • If you want easier bleeding, lift the front end and set it on jack stands (front wheels off the ground).

🔨 Step-by-Step Instructions

Follow these steps in order:

Step 1: Relieve fluid and protect components

  • Place a drain pan under the pump/hoses area.
  • Use a shop rag and brake cleaner spray to clean the pump and hose fittings so dirt can’t enter the system.
  • Remove the reservoir cap by hand.
  • Clean first so you don’t contaminate the steering rack.

Step 2: Remove the accessory drive belt

  • Locate the belt tension/adjust hardware at the power steering pump bracket.
  • Use a 12mm socket and 14mm socket (as equipped) to loosen the pump pivot/lock bolts.
  • Use a 12mm socket on the adjuster to back tension off until the belt slips off the pump pulley.
  • If reusing the belt, mark its rotation direction with a flat-blade screwdriver tip or marker.

Step 3: Drain and disconnect the return (low-pressure) hose

  • Use pliers (hose clamp pliers) to slide the return hose clamp back.
  • Twist the hose gently by hand to break it loose, then pull it off the pump/reservoir nipple.
  • Let fluid drain into the drain pan. Plug the hose end with a clean rag.
  • The return hose is soft; don’t use a knife.

Step 4: Disconnect the pressure line (high-pressure fitting)

  • Place rags under the fitting to catch fluid.
  • If your line uses a flare fitting: use a 17mm flare-nut wrench to loosen the pressure line at the pump.
  • If your line uses a banjo bolt: use a 17mm combination wrench (or 17mm socket if it fits) to remove the banjo bolt.
  • Remove and discard the old sealing washers; you will install new ones.
  • Torque to 34 Nm (25 ft-lbs) when reinstalling (flare fitting or banjo bolt at pump).
  • A flare-nut wrench grips better than an open-end wrench.

Step 5: Unbolt and remove the power steering pump

  • Remove the pump mounting bolts using a 12mm socket and/or 14mm socket (bolt heads vary by bracket position).
  • Lift the pump out carefully, keeping the pulley from hitting the radiator fans.
  • Torque to 25 Nm (18 ft-lbs) for pump mounting bolts during installation.

Step 6: Transfer the pulley (only if your new pump does not include one)

  • Check your replacement pump: if it has no pulley installed, you must reuse your old pulley.
  • Use a power steering pulley puller/installer set (specialty) to remove and install the pulley.
  • Install the pulley until it aligns with the other belt pulleys (straight belt path).
  • Do not hammer the pulley on.

Step 7: Install the new pump

  • Position the pump on the bracket and start bolts by hand.
  • Tighten mounting bolts using a 12mm socket/14mm socket.
  • Torque to 25 Nm (18 ft-lbs) for pump mounting bolts.

Step 8: Reconnect the pressure and return lines

  • Reconnect the pressure line using a 17mm flare-nut wrench (or 17mm socket for banjo bolt).
  • Install new sealing washers if using a banjo bolt (one washer on each side of the banjo fitting).
  • Torque to 34 Nm (25 ft-lbs) at the pump pressure fitting.
  • Reinstall the return hose and position the clamp using pliers (hose clamp pliers).

Step 9: Reinstall and tension the belt

  • Route the belt correctly on all pulleys.
  • Use a 12mm socket on the adjuster to tension the belt.
  • Snug the lock/pivot bolts using a 12mm socket and 14mm socket.
  • Torque to 24 Nm (18 ft-lbs) for the pump lock/pivot bolts.
  • If it squeals, it’s usually too loose.

Step 10: Fill and bleed the power steering system

  • Fill the reservoir with ATF Dexron III/Mercon compatible using a funnel.
  • With front wheels off the ground, engine OFF: slowly turn steering wheel lock-to-lock 10–15 times.
  • Check fluid level and top off.
  • Reconnect the battery negative terminal using a 10mm socket.
  • Start engine and let it idle; do not hold steering at full lock.
  • Turn lock-to-lock 5–8 more times, then recheck level and top off.
  • Foamy fluid means air—keep bleeding.

âś… After Repair

  • Inspect for leaks at the pressure fitting and return hose while the engine idles.
  • Verify quiet operation (no whining) and smooth steering assist.
  • Recheck fluid level after a 10–15 minute test drive, then again the next morning.
  • If the belt squeals, recheck belt tension and pulley alignment.

đź’° DIY vs Shop Cost

Shop Cost: ₹18,000-₹35,000 (parts + labor)

DIY Cost: ₹8,000-₹22,000 (parts only)

You Save: ₹10,000-₹13,000 by doing it yourself!

Shop labor rates vary but typically run ₹800-₹2,000/hour. This repair takes a shop approximately 2-4 hours.


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