How to Replace the Power Steering Pump on a 2013 Subaru Forester
Step-by-step instructions with required tools, parts, torque specs, fluid fill and bleeding tips
How to Replace the Power Steering Pump on a 2013 Subaru Forester
Step-by-step instructions with required tools, parts, torque specs, fluid fill and bleeding tips


đź”§ Forester - Power Steering Pump Replacement
On your Forester, the power steering pump creates hydraulic pressure so the steering stays light and smooth. Replacement is usually needed for leaks, whining noise, or a seized pulley bearing.
Difficulty Level: Intermediate | Estimated Time: 2-4 hours
⚠️ Safety & Precautions
- 🛑 Work on a cool engine—hot exhaust/turbo parts can burn you.
- 🛑 Support the vehicle with jack stands if you lift it; never rely on a jack.
- 🛑 Power steering fluid/ATF is flammable—keep away from sparks and wipe spills.
- 🛑 Keep fluid off the alternator and drive belt (it can cause belt slip).
- 🛑 Battery disconnect is recommended before working near the alternator.
đź”§ Required Tools
You'll need the following tools for this repair:
- Safety glasses
- Nitrile gloves
- Floor jack (rated 2-ton minimum)
- Jack stands (rated 2-ton minimum)
- Wheel chocks
- 10mm socket
- 12mm socket
- 14mm socket
- 10mm combination wrench
- 12mm combination wrench
- 14mm combination wrench
- 17mm flare-nut wrench
- 3/8" drive ratchet
- 3/8" drive extension set
- Torque wrench (5–80 Nm range)
- Serpentine belt tool or 14mm long wrench
- Pliers (hose clamp pliers)
- Flat-blade screwdriver
- Drain pan (at least 6-quart)
- Fluid transfer pump or funnel
- Shop rags
- Brake cleaner spray
🔩 Required Parts
HowToo sells all the parts you need for this repair:
- Power steering pump - Qty: 1
- Power steering pressure line sealing washers - Qty: 2
- Power steering return hose clamp - Qty: 1
- Power steering fluid (ATF Dexron III/Mercon compatible) - Qty: 2 quarts
- Accessory drive belt - Qty: 1
đź“‹ Before You Begin
- Park on level ground, set the parking brake, and chock the rear wheels.
- Open the hood and locate the power steering reservoir (cap usually says “Power Steering”).
- Disconnect the battery negative terminal using a 10mm socket.
- If you want easier bleeding, lift the front end and set it on jack stands (front wheels off the ground).
🔨 Step-by-Step Instructions
Follow these steps in order:
Step 1: Relieve fluid and protect components
- Place a drain pan under the pump/hoses area.
- Use a shop rag and brake cleaner spray to clean the pump and hose fittings so dirt can’t enter the system.
- Remove the reservoir cap by hand.
- Clean first so you don’t contaminate the steering rack.
Step 2: Remove the accessory drive belt
- Locate the belt tension/adjust hardware at the power steering pump bracket.
- Use a 12mm socket and 14mm socket (as equipped) to loosen the pump pivot/lock bolts.
- Use a 12mm socket on the adjuster to back tension off until the belt slips off the pump pulley.
- If reusing the belt, mark its rotation direction with a flat-blade screwdriver tip or marker.
Step 3: Drain and disconnect the return (low-pressure) hose
- Use pliers (hose clamp pliers) to slide the return hose clamp back.
- Twist the hose gently by hand to break it loose, then pull it off the pump/reservoir nipple.
- Let fluid drain into the drain pan. Plug the hose end with a clean rag.
- The return hose is soft; don’t use a knife.
Step 4: Disconnect the pressure line (high-pressure fitting)
- Place rags under the fitting to catch fluid.
- If your line uses a flare fitting: use a 17mm flare-nut wrench to loosen the pressure line at the pump.
- If your line uses a banjo bolt: use a 17mm combination wrench (or 17mm socket if it fits) to remove the banjo bolt.
- Remove and discard the old sealing washers; you will install new ones.
- Torque to 34 Nm (25 ft-lbs) when reinstalling (flare fitting or banjo bolt at pump).
- A flare-nut wrench grips better than an open-end wrench.
Step 5: Unbolt and remove the power steering pump
- Remove the pump mounting bolts using a 12mm socket and/or 14mm socket (bolt heads vary by bracket position).
- Lift the pump out carefully, keeping the pulley from hitting the radiator fans.
- Torque to 25 Nm (18 ft-lbs) for pump mounting bolts during installation.
Step 6: Transfer the pulley (only if your new pump does not include one)
- Check your replacement pump: if it has no pulley installed, you must reuse your old pulley.
- Use a power steering pulley puller/installer set (specialty) to remove and install the pulley.
- Install the pulley until it aligns with the other belt pulleys (straight belt path).
- Do not hammer the pulley on.
Step 7: Install the new pump
- Position the pump on the bracket and start bolts by hand.
- Tighten mounting bolts using a 12mm socket/14mm socket.
- Torque to 25 Nm (18 ft-lbs) for pump mounting bolts.
Step 8: Reconnect the pressure and return lines
- Reconnect the pressure line using a 17mm flare-nut wrench (or 17mm socket for banjo bolt).
- Install new sealing washers if using a banjo bolt (one washer on each side of the banjo fitting).
- Torque to 34 Nm (25 ft-lbs) at the pump pressure fitting.
- Reinstall the return hose and position the clamp using pliers (hose clamp pliers).
Step 9: Reinstall and tension the belt
- Route the belt correctly on all pulleys.
- Use a 12mm socket on the adjuster to tension the belt.
- Snug the lock/pivot bolts using a 12mm socket and 14mm socket.
- Torque to 24 Nm (18 ft-lbs) for the pump lock/pivot bolts.
- If it squeals, it’s usually too loose.
Step 10: Fill and bleed the power steering system
- Fill the reservoir with ATF Dexron III/Mercon compatible using a funnel.
- With front wheels off the ground, engine OFF: slowly turn steering wheel lock-to-lock 10–15 times.
- Check fluid level and top off.
- Reconnect the battery negative terminal using a 10mm socket.
- Start engine and let it idle; do not hold steering at full lock.
- Turn lock-to-lock 5–8 more times, then recheck level and top off.
- Foamy fluid means air—keep bleeding.
âś… After Repair
- Inspect for leaks at the pressure fitting and return hose while the engine idles.
- Verify quiet operation (no whining) and smooth steering assist.
- Recheck fluid level after a 10–15 minute test drive, then again the next morning.
- If the belt squeals, recheck belt tension and pulley alignment.
đź’° DIY vs Shop Cost
Shop Cost: ₹18,000-₹35,000 (parts + labor)
DIY Cost: ₹8,000-₹22,000 (parts only)
You Save: ₹10,000-₹13,000 by doing it yourself!
Shop labor rates vary but typically run ₹800-₹2,000/hour. This repair takes a shop approximately 2-4 hours.
🎯 Ready to get started?
HowToo makes it easy: same-day/2-day shipping on every part, plus all the tools and specialty tools you need! Check out the parts and tools sections below to add everything to your cart.

















