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2009 Nissan Altima
2009 Nissan Altima
Base - Inline 4 2.5L
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How to Replace Power Steering Pump 2007-2012 Nissan Altima

How to Replace Power Steering Pump 2007-2012 Nissan Altima

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3 Ton
3 Ton
Floor Jack
3 Ton
3 Ton
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How to Replace the Power Steering Pump on a 2009 Nissan Altima (DIY Guide)

Step-by-step instructions with required tools, parts list, torque specs, and bleeding procedure

How to Replace the Power Steering Pump on a 2009 Nissan Altima (DIY Guide)

Step-by-step instructions with required tools, parts list, torque specs, and bleeding procedure

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Orion Logo White

đź”§ Altima - Power Steering Pump Replacement

You’ll remove the drive belt, detach the power steering hoses, swap the pump, then refill and bleed the system. This fixes common issues like whining noise, stiff steering, or fluid leaks from the pump shaft seal.

Difficulty Level: Intermediate | Estimated Time: 2-4 hours


⚠️ Safety & Precautions

  • 🛑 Support the car with jack stands before working underneath.
  • 🛑 Keep hands/tools clear of the cooling fans; they can turn on unexpectedly.
  • 🛑 Power steering fluid is slippery—clean spills immediately to prevent falls.
  • 🛑 Wear safety glasses when removing hoses (fluid can spray).
  • 🛑 Battery disconnect is not required, but it’s safer if you’ll be near the radiator fans for long.

đź”§ Required Tools

You'll need the following tools for this repair:

  • Floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum)
  • Jack stands (rated 3-ton minimum)
  • Wheel chocks
  • Safety glasses
  • Nitrile gloves
  • Drain pan
  • Shop towels
  • Funnel
  • Fluid suction gun
  • Ratchet
  • Socket set (10mm, 12mm, 14mm, 17mm)
  • Wrench set (10mm, 12mm, 14mm, 17mm)
  • Torque wrench (10–100 ft-lbs range)
  • Pliers
  • Hose clamp pliers
  • Power steering pulley puller/installer set (specialty)

🔩 Required Parts

HowToo sells all the parts you need for this repair:

  • Power steering pump - Qty: 1
  • Power steering pressure line sealing washers - Qty: 2
  • Power steering fluid (Nissan-approved) - Qty: 2 quarts
  • Serpentine drive belt - Qty: 1 (recommended while you’re in there)

đź“‹ Before You Begin

  • Park on level ground, set the parking brake, and chock the rear wheels.
  • Let the engine cool fully so you don’t burn yourself.
  • Use a fluid suction gun (a hand pump that pulls fluid out) to remove as much fluid as possible from the power steering reservoir into a drain pan.
  • Raise the front of the car with a floor jack and support it on jack stands so the front wheels can turn freely for bleeding later.

🔨 Step-by-Step Instructions

Follow these steps in order:

Step 1: Remove the engine cover/air ducting (if it blocks access)

  • Remove any plastic covers or intake duct pieces in the way using a 10mm socket or pliers for clips.
  • Set fasteners aside in a small tray so nothing gets lost.

Step 2: Release belt tension and remove the drive belt from the pump pulley

  • Locate the belt tensioner and rotate it using a 14mm socket and ratchet to relieve tension.
  • Slip the belt off the power steering pump pulley first, then slowly release the tensioner.
  • Take a quick belt-routing photo.

Step 3: Remove the power steering pump pulley

  • Install the power steering pulley puller/installer set (specialty) and pull the pulley off the pump shaft.
  • This tool is needed because the pulley is press-fit (it does not unbolt).

Step 4: Disconnect the return hose at the pump

  • Place a drain pan under the pump area.
  • Use hose clamp pliers to slide the clamp back on the return hose.
  • Twist and pull the hose off using pliers as needed, then aim it into the drain pan.

Step 5: Disconnect the pressure line from the pump

  • Clean around the fitting with shop towels so dirt doesn’t enter the system.
  • Remove the banjo bolt at the pump using a 17mm socket (or 17mm wrench if access is tight).
  • Catch fluid in the drain pan.
  • Remove and discard the old sealing washers; you will install new ones.

Step 6: Remove the pump from its bracket

  • Remove the pump mounting bolts using a 12mm socket and ratchet.
  • Lift the pump out carefully without bending the lines.

Step 7: Install the new pump onto the bracket

  • Position the new pump and start all mounting bolts by hand to prevent cross-threading.
  • Tighten mounting bolts with a torque wrench: Torque to 25 Nm (18 ft-lbs).

Step 8: Reconnect the pressure line with new sealing washers

  • Install a new sealing washer on each side of the banjo fitting (washer–fitting–washer “sandwich”).
  • Thread the banjo bolt in by hand first.
  • Tighten with a torque wrench: Torque to 34 Nm (25 ft-lbs).

Step 9: Reconnect the return hose

  • Push the return hose fully onto the pump nipple.
  • Reposition the clamp using hose clamp pliers.

Step 10: Press the pulley onto the new pump

  • Use the power steering pulley puller/installer set (specialty) in “install” mode to press the pulley onto the shaft.
  • Press it until it sits in the same alignment as before (flush/aligned with the other pulleys).
  • Do not hammer the pulley on.

Step 11: Reinstall the belt

  • Route the belt correctly.
  • Rotate the tensioner using a 14mm socket and ratchet, slip the belt over the pump pulley, then release slowly.

Step 12: Fill and bleed the power steering system

  • Fill the reservoir using a funnel and power steering fluid (Nissan-approved) to the MAX line.
  • With the engine OFF and front wheels still off the ground, turn the steering wheel slowly from lock-to-lock 10–15 times.
  • Check fluid level and top off as needed.
  • Start the engine and let it idle; turn lock-to-lock 5–10 more times slowly.
  • Shut off the engine and recheck fluid level; top off to the correct mark.
  • If the fluid looks foamy, wait 10 minutes and repeat the bleeding steps.

âś… After Repair

  • With the engine idling, inspect the pump, return hose, and pressure fitting for leaks using safety glasses and a flashlight (use your phone light if needed).
  • Lower the car safely and road test in a parking lot first.
  • Listen for whining and confirm steering effort is normal in both directions.
  • Recheck the reservoir level after the test drive and top off if needed.

đź’° DIY vs Shop Cost

Shop Cost: $450-$900 (parts + labor)

DIY Cost: $140-$350 (parts only)

You Save: $300-$550 by doing it yourself!

Shop labor rates vary but typically run $100-$150/hour. This repair takes a shop approximately 2-3 hours.


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