🔧 Escape - Power Steering Pump Replacement

You’ll remove the serpentine belt, disconnect the power steering lines, and swap the pump. On your Escape, the pump pulley is a press-fit, so you’ll also need a pulley puller/installer to transfer (or install) the pulley correctly.

Difficulty Level: Intermediate | Estimated Time: 2.5-4.5 hours

---

⚠️ Safety & Precautions

• 🛑 Work on a cool engine; keep hands clear of the belt path.
• 🛑 Support the Escape with jack stands if you go through the wheel well—never rely on a jack.
• 🛑 Power steering fluid can damage paint; wipe spills immediately.
• 🛑 Do not start the engine with the reservoir empty; you can damage the new pump.
• 🛑 Battery disconnect is not required, but disconnecting the negative cable helps prevent accidental cranking.

---

🔧 Required Tools

You'll need the following tools for this repair:

• Safety glasses
• Nitrile gloves
• Floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum)
• Jack stands (rated 3-ton minimum)
• Wheel chocks
• Drain pan (at least 2-gallon)
• Shop towels
• 3/8" drive ratchet
• 3/8" drive torque wrench (10-100 ft-lbs range)
• Socket set: 8mm, 10mm, 13mm, 15mm
• Wrench set: 10mm, 13mm, 18mm
• Serpentine belt tool or 3/8" breaker bar
• Power steering pulley puller/installer set (specialty)
• Line/flare-nut wrench set (especially 18mm)
• Flat-blade screwdriver
• Pliers
• Funnel

---

🔩 Required Parts

HowToo sells all the parts you need for this repair:

• Power steering pump - Qty: 1
• Power steering fluid (MERCON V ATF) - Qty: 2 quarts
• Power steering pressure line O-ring/seal kit - Qty: 1
• Power steering return hose clamp - Qty: 1
• Serpentine belt - Qty: 1

---

📋 Before You Begin

• Park on level ground, set the parking brake, and chock the rear wheels.
• Turn the steering wheel so the front wheels point straight ahead.
• If you’ll lift the front: use a floor jack and set the Escape securely on jack stands.
• Place a drain pan under the pump area and keep shop towels ready.
• Take a quick photo of the belt routing.

---

🔨 Step-by-Step Instructions

Follow these steps in order:

Step 1: Create access to the pump

• Open the hood and remove the air intake duct/air box as needed using an 8mm socket and flat-blade screwdriver.
• If access is tight from above, remove the right-front wheel using the correct lug wrench, then remove the splash shield fasteners using a 10mm socket.

Step 2: Drain fluid from the reservoir and return hose

• Place a drain pan under the reservoir/hoses.
• Use pliers to slide the return-hose clamp back, then pull the return hose off the reservoir.
• Point the hose into the drain pan and let it drain. Cap/plug the reservoir nipple with a shop towel to reduce mess.

Step 3: Release the serpentine belt

• Use a serpentine belt tool or 3/8" breaker bar on the belt tensioner (commonly a 15mm socket is used) to rotate the tensioner and slip the belt off the power steering pump pulley.
• Move the belt aside. If the belt is cracked/glazed, replace it.

Step 4: Disconnect the pressure line at the pump

• Clean around the fitting with shop towels so dirt doesn’t enter the system.
• Use an 18mm flare-nut wrench to loosen the pressure line fitting at the pump.
• Once loose, finish unthreading by hand and guide the line away. Catch fluid in the drain pan.

Step 5: Disconnect the return hose at the pump (if equipped)

• Use pliers to move the clamp, then twist and pull the return hose off the pump.
• Plug the hose with a shop towel to limit dripping.

Step 6: Remove the power steering pulley from the old pump

• Use the power steering pulley puller/installer set (specialty) to pull the pulley straight off the old pump shaft.
• A pulley puller/installer is a tool that grabs the pulley hub to remove/install it without bending the pulley.
• Do not pry the pulley off.

Step 7: Unbolt and remove the pump

• Remove the pump mounting bolts using a 13mm socket and 3/8" drive ratchet.
• Support the pump with one hand while removing the last bolt.
• Lift the pump out from the top, or guide it out through the wheel well if that’s easier.

Step 8: Transfer/install the pulley onto the new pump

• Inspect the pulley for cracks or wobble. Replace it if damaged.
• Use the power steering pulley puller/installer set (specialty) to press the pulley onto the new pump shaft.
• Press it on until the pulley sits flush to the same depth as it was on the old pump (match your reference).

Step 9: Install the new pump

• Position the pump and start all mounting bolts by hand.
• Tighten with a 13mm socket.
• Final tighten using a torque wrench: Torque to 25 Nm (18 ft-lbs).

Step 10: Reconnect lines with new seals

• Install new pressure-line O-ring/seal(s) from the seal kit (lightly wet them with fresh fluid first).
• Thread the pressure fitting in by hand first to avoid cross-threading, then tighten with an 18mm flare-nut wrench.
• Final tighten using a torque wrench if possible: Torque to 27 Nm (20 ft-lbs).
• Reinstall the return hose and secure it with the clamp using pliers.

Step 11: Reinstall the serpentine belt

• Route the belt according to the under-hood diagram (or your photo).
• Use the serpentine belt tool or 3/8" breaker bar to rotate the tensioner and slip the belt onto the power steering pulley.
• Visually confirm the belt is seated in every pulley groove.

Step 12: Refill and bleed the power steering system

• Fill the reservoir using a funnel with MERCON V ATF to the COLD/FULL mark.
• With the front wheels off the ground (on jack stands), turn the steering wheel slowly lock-to-lock 10–15 times with the engine OFF. Add fluid as the level drops.
• Start the engine and let it idle. Turn lock-to-lock 5–8 more times slowly. Do not hold against the stops.
• Shut the engine off, recheck level, and top off to the HOT/FULL mark after a short drive.
• Foamy fluid means air is still trapped.

---

✅ After Repair

• Check for leaks at the pressure fitting and return hose with the engine idling.
• Verify the steering is smooth and quiet (no whining) during a parking-lot test.
• Recheck fluid level the next day; top off if needed.
• If the belt chirps or wanders, recheck pulley alignment and belt seating.

---

💰 DIY vs Shop Cost

Shop Cost: $450-$900 (parts + labor)

DIY Cost: $140-$320 (parts only)

You Save: $310-$580 by doing it yourself!

Shop labor rates vary but typically run $100-$150/hour. This repair takes a shop approximately 2.5-4.0 hours.

---

🎯 Ready to get started?

HowToo makes it easy: same-day/2-day shipping on every part, plus all the tools and specialty tools you need! Check out the parts and tools sections below to add everything to your cart.