🔧 Traverse - Tie Rod End Replacement

Replacing a tie rod end restores proper steering control and helps prevent uneven tire wear. On your Traverse, the most common DIY job is the outer tie rod end at the steering knuckle; afterward, the wheel alignment must be checked.

Difficulty Level: Intermediate | Estimated Time: 1.0-2.0 hours (plus alignment time)

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⚠️ Safety & Precautions

• ⚠️ Support the SUV with jack stands; never rely on a floor jack alone.
• ⚠️ Keep fingers clear of the steering knuckle while separating the joint.
• ⚠️ Do not drive fast afterward without an alignment; toe setting will change.
• ⚠️ If equipped with surround/park assist, avoid bumping wheel speed sensor wiring near the knuckle.

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🔧 Required Tools

You'll need the following tools for this repair:

• Floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum)
• Jack stands (rated 3-ton minimum)
• Wheel chocks
• 19mm socket
• 1/2" drive breaker bar
• 1/2" drive torque wrench (20-200 ft-lbs range)
• Combination wrench set (metric)
• Adjustable wrench (12")
• Needle-nose pliers
• Paint marker
• Tape measure
• Penetrating oil
• Tie rod end puller (specialty)
• Safety glasses
• Mechanic gloves

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🔩 Required Parts

HowToo sells all the parts you need for this repair:

• Outer tie rod end - Qty: 1
• Cotter pin - Qty: 1
• Thread locker (medium strength) - Qty: 1

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📋 Before You Begin

• Park on level ground, steering wheel straight, and set the parking brake.
• Chock the rear wheels with wheel chocks.
• Spray penetrating oil on the tie-rod jam nut and the tie-rod end stud nut, then wait 5–10 minutes.

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🔨 Step-by-Step Instructions

Follow these steps in order:

Step 1: Confirm which tie rod end you’re replacing

• Please reply with: Front Left or Front Right, and confirm it’s the outer tie rod end (at the wheel/knuckle) vs the inner (under the boot). I’ll then provide the exact torque specs for your Traverse.
• Outer is the common DIY one.

Step 2: Lift and remove the wheel

• Use a 19mm socket and breaker bar to slightly loosen lug nuts before lifting.
• Lift with the floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum) and support with jack stands (rated 3-ton minimum).
• Remove lug nuts with the 19mm socket and remove the wheel.

Step 3: Mark the current alignment position (toe)

• Use a paint marker to mark the position of the jam nut on the tie rod.
• Use a tape measure and record the distance from the tie rod end to a repeatable point on the tie rod threads.
• “Jam nut” means the lock nut that clamps the adjustment so it can’t turn.

Step 4: Loosen the jam nut

• Hold the tie rod with a combination wrench set (metric) or adjustable wrench (12").
• Loosen the jam nut using the correct combination wrench set (metric).
• Do not spin the tie rod yet—just break the jam nut loose.

Step 5: Remove the cotter pin (if equipped)

• Use needle-nose pliers to straighten and remove the cotter pin from the tie rod end stud.
• If your nut is a locking style with no cotter pin, skip this step.

Step 6: Remove the tie rod end nut

• Use the correct size from your combination wrench set (metric) to remove the nut from the stud at the steering knuckle.
• If it’s stubborn, reapply penetrating oil and wait 2–3 minutes.

Step 7: Separate the tie rod end from the steering knuckle

• Install and tighten the tie rod end puller (specialty) until the stud pops free.
• A “puller” is a tool that pushes the stud out without hammering the knuckle.

Step 8: Remove the tie rod end from the tie rod

• Spin the old tie rod end off by hand while counting turns (example: 17 turns).
• Write the number down—this helps keep the toe close enough to drive to an alignment shop.

Step 9: Install the new tie rod end

• Apply a small amount of thread locker (medium strength) to the threads.
• Thread the new tie rod end on the same number of turns you counted coming off.
• Align the stud with the knuckle and seat it by hand.

Step 10: Tighten fasteners (torque specs pending your reply)

• Use a torque wrench to tighten the tie rod end stud nut and the jam nut to the correct Traverse spec.
• Torque specs: I’ll provide the exact numbers once you confirm Front Left/Right and outer vs inner (GM uses different hardware depending on side/options).

Step 11: Reinstall wheel

• Install the wheel and hand-tighten lug nuts.
• Lower the SUV, then torque lug nuts with the torque wrench in a star pattern.
• Torque to 190 Nm (140 ft-lbs)

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✅ After Repair

• Turn the steering wheel lock-to-lock while parked and confirm no binding or clunks.
• Road test at low speed first; steering wheel should stay near-center.
• Get a professional 4-wheel alignment as soon as possible.
• Recheck the jam nut area for movement after the first short drive.

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💰 DIY vs Shop Cost

Shop Cost: $250-$500 (parts + labor + typical alignment)

DIY Cost: $40-$150 (parts only)

You Save: $100-$350 by doing it yourself!

Shop labor rates vary but typically run $100-$150/hour. This repair takes a shop approximately 1.0-1.5 hours.

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🎯 Ready to get started?

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