🔧 Seltos - Outer Tie Rod End Replacement

The outer tie rod end connects your steering rack to the steering knuckle. Replacing it fixes looseness/clunking, uneven tire wear, and steering play—but it will change alignment, so you’ll need an alignment after.

Difficulty Level: Intermediate | Estimated Time: 1.0-2.0 hours (one side)

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⚠️ Safety & Precautions

• 🧯 Support your Seltos on jack stands; never rely on a jack.
• 🧤 Keep hands clear when separating the joint; it can “pop” free suddenly.
• 🔥 Work on a cool suspension/engine bay area to avoid burns.
• 🔋 Battery disconnect is not required for this repair.

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🔧 Required Tools

You'll need the following tools for this repair:

• Wheel chocks
• Floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum)
• Jack stands (rated 3-ton minimum)
• 21mm lug nut socket
• Breaker bar (1/2" drive)
• Torque wrench (10–200 Nm range)
• Needle-nose pliers
• Diagonal cutters
• Open-end wrench set (17mm–22mm)
• Socket set (17mm–22mm)
• Paint marker
• Tape measure
• Tie rod end puller (specialty)
• Penetrating oil
• Safety glasses
• Mechanic gloves

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🔩 Required Parts

HowToo sells all the parts you need for this repair:

• Outer tie rod end - Qty: 1
• Cotter pin (tie rod end) - Qty: 1
• Tie rod end nut (new) - Qty: 1

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📋 Before You Begin

• Park on level ground, steering wheel centered, and place wheel chocks behind the rear wheels.
• Loosen the front wheel lug nuts slightly before lifting the vehicle.
• Mark the relationship of parts so your toe setting stays close enough to drive to an alignment shop.
• Quick check: is this for the left or right outer tie rod end?
• Quick check: does your tie-rod-to-knuckle nut use a cotter pin (castle nut)? If you’re not sure, send a photo and I’ll confirm.

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🔨 Step-by-Step Instructions

Follow these steps in order:

Step 1: Loosen the wheel and raise the vehicle

• Use a 21mm lug nut socket and breaker bar to loosen lug nuts 1/2 turn.
• Use a floor jack to lift the front corner at the proper lift point.
• Set the vehicle down onto jack stands and verify it’s stable.
• Remove the wheel with the 21mm lug nut socket.

Step 2: Mark the jam nut and measure for a close-to-original alignment

• Locate the jam nut (the thin nut locking the outer tie rod end to the inner tie rod).
• Use a paint marker to draw an alignment mark across the jam nut and inner tie rod threads.
• Use a tape measure to record the distance from a fixed point (example: inner tie rod boot clamp edge) to the center of the outer tie rod stud.
• This helps you drive straight to alignment.

Step 3: Loosen the jam nut

• Spray the threads with penetrating oil.
• Hold the inner tie rod (if it wants to turn) with an appropriate open-end wrench.
• Use the correct-size open-end wrench to loosen the jam nut about 1/2–1 turn (do not move it far).
• Torque on reassembly (jam nut): Torque to 55–75 Nm (41–55 ft-lbs)

Step 4: Remove the tie rod end nut from the steering knuckle

• If equipped with a cotter pin: straighten and remove it using needle-nose pliers and diagonal cutters.
• Remove the nut using the correct-size socket and ratchet.
• Torque on reassembly (outer tie rod nut): Torque to 49–63 Nm (36–46 ft-lbs)

Step 5: Separate the tie rod end from the knuckle

• Install a tie rod end puller (specialty) and tighten it until the taper pops free. A tie rod end puller is a clamp-style tool that pushes the stud out without damaging threads.
• Remove the outer tie rod stud from the knuckle by hand once loose.

Step 6: Remove the outer tie rod end from the inner tie rod

• Spin the outer tie rod end off by hand while counting turns (example: “17 turns”).
• Write the number of turns down using your phone notes.

Step 7: Install the new outer tie rod end

• Thread the new outer tie rod end on the inner tie rod the same number of turns you counted.
• Line up your paint marker mark and your tape measure measurement as closely as possible.

Step 8: Attach the tie rod end to the steering knuckle

• Insert the stud into the knuckle.
• Install the new nut by hand, then tighten using the correct-size socket and torque wrench.
• Torque to 49–63 Nm (36–46 ft-lbs)
• If equipped with a castle nut: install a new cotter pin using needle-nose pliers. Tighten slightly further only as needed to align the cotter pin hole.

Step 9: Tighten the jam nut

• Hold the outer tie rod end so it doesn’t rotate using an appropriate open-end wrench.
• Snug the jam nut against the outer tie rod end with the correct-size open-end wrench, then finish with a torque wrench if you can fit it.
• Torque to 55–75 Nm (41–55 ft-lbs)

Step 10: Reinstall the wheel

• Reinstall the wheel and hand-thread lug nuts.
• Lower the vehicle using the floor jack.
• Tighten lug nuts in a star pattern using a torque wrench.
• Torque to 88–108 Nm (65–80 ft-lbs)

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✅ After Repair

• Turn the steering wheel lock-to-lock while parked and confirm nothing binds or rubs.
• Test drive at low speed first; confirm the steering wheel is close to centered and there’s no clunking.
• Get a 4-wheel alignment as soon as possible (tie rod replacement changes toe).
• If any stability/steering warning lights appear, have the vehicle scanned and recalibrated as needed.

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💰 DIY vs Shop Cost

Shop Cost: $250-$500 (parts + labor + alignment)

DIY Cost: $35-$120 (parts only)

You Save: $130-$380 by doing it yourself!

Shop labor rates vary but typically run $100-$150/hour. This repair takes a shop approximately 1.0-1.5 hours.

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🎯 Ready to get started?

HowToo makes it easy: same-day/2-day shipping on every part, plus all the tools and specialty tools you need! Check out the parts and tools sections below to add everything to your cart.