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2020 Mazda CX-5
2020 Mazda CX-5
Touring - Inline 4 2.5L
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How to Replace Outer Tie Rods 2014-2021 Mazda 6

How to Replace Outer Tie Rods 2014-2021 Mazda 6

Suggested Parts

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Tools & Fluids

3 Ton
3 Ton
Floor Jack
3 Ton
3 Ton
Jack Stands
Wheel Chocks
Wheel Chocks
10mm
10mm
Socket
or (3/8")
21mm
21mm
Socket
or (13/16")
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How to Replace the Outer Tie Rod End on a 2020 Mazda CX-5 (Step-by-Step)

Tools, parts, safety tips, and torque specs—plus what to mark and why you still need an alignment

How to Replace the Outer Tie Rod End on a 2020 Mazda CX-5 (Step-by-Step)

Tools, parts, safety tips, and torque specs—plus what to mark and why you still need an alignment

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đź”§ CX-5 - Outer Tie Rod End Replacement

The outer tie rod end connects your steering rack to the wheel knuckle, and worn joints can cause clunking, loose steering, and uneven tire wear. This job is very doable at home, but you’ll still need a professional alignment afterward to protect your tires and keep the steering straight.

Difficulty Level: Intermediate | Estimated Time: 1.0-2.0 hours (one side)


⚠️ Safety & Precautions

  • đź§Ż Support your CX-5 on jack stands; never rely on a floor jack alone.
  • Keep the steering wheel centered and don’t let the steering rack twist by force.
  • Wear eye protection when removing the cotter pin and separating the joint.
  • If you use a hammer near the knuckle, avoid hitting the threaded stud.

đź”§ Required Tools

You'll need the following tools for this repair:

  • Floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum)
  • Jack stands (rated 3-ton minimum) - Qty: 2
  • Wheel chocks
  • Metric socket set 10mm-24mm
  • 21mm socket
  • 3/8" ratchet
  • 1/2" breaker bar
  • Torque wrench (20-200 Nm range)
  • 12-inch adjustable wrench
  • Needle-nose pliers
  • Side cutters
  • Tie rod end puller (specialty)
  • Penetrating oil
  • Paint marker
  • Measuring tape or ruler
  • Mechanic gloves
  • Safety glasses

🔩 Required Parts

HowToo sells all the parts you need for this repair:

  • Outer tie rod end - Qty: 1
  • Cotter pin (tie rod end) - Qty: 1

đź“‹ Before You Begin

  • Park on level ground, set the parking brake, and chock the rear wheels.
  • Loosen the front wheel lug nuts slightly before lifting.
  • Decide which side you’re replacing, then turn the steering wheel to give yourself access.
  • Plan for an alignment after the repair, even if you “match the turns.”

🔨 Step-by-Step Instructions

Follow these steps in order:

Step 1: Lift and remove the wheel

  • Use a 21mm socket and breaker bar to loosen lug nuts.
  • Lift with the floor jack and support with jack stands.
  • Remove the lug nuts with a 21mm socket and take the wheel off.

Step 2: Mark the current adjustment (so you’re close for alignment)

  • Spray the jam nut area with penetrating oil.
  • Use a paint marker to mark the position of the jam nut against the inner tie rod threads.
  • Use a measuring tape or ruler to note how many threads are showing, or measure from the jam nut to a fixed point on the tie rod.
  • These marks help you drive to alignment safely.

Step 3: Loosen the jam nut

  • Hold the inner tie rod with a 12-inch adjustable wrench (so it doesn’t twist).
  • Use the 12-inch adjustable wrench to crack loose the jam nut (turn it counterclockwise when viewed from the outside).
  • Do not spin it far yet—just break it loose.

Step 4: Remove the cotter pin and loosen the tie rod end nut

  • Straighten and remove the cotter pin using needle-nose pliers and/or side cutters.
  • Use the correct size from your metric socket set 10mm-24mm and a ratchet to loosen and remove the tie rod end nut from the knuckle.

Step 5: Separate the tie rod end from the knuckle

  • Install the tie rod end puller (specialty) on the joint (this tool pushes the stud out without damaging the boot).
  • Tighten the puller until the stud pops free from the knuckle.

Step 6: Remove the old outer tie rod end

  • Spin the outer tie rod end off the inner tie rod by hand.
  • Count the turns as you remove it (write the number down).

Step 7: Install the new outer tie rod end

  • Thread the new tie rod end on the inner tie rod using the same number of turns you counted.
  • Seat the stud into the knuckle.
  • Install the new nut and tighten with the correct socket from your metric socket set 10mm-24mm and a torque wrench: Torque to 49-68 Nm (36-50 ft-lbs), then continue tightening as needed to align the cotter pin hole.
  • Install a new cotter pin using needle-nose pliers and bend the ends over securely.

Step 8: Tighten the jam nut

  • Hold the inner tie rod with a 12-inch adjustable wrench.
  • Snug the jam nut against the new tie rod end using the 12-inch adjustable wrench: Torque to 70-90 Nm (52-66 ft-lbs).

Step 9: Reinstall the wheel

  • Reinstall the wheel and hand-thread the lug nuts.
  • Lower the CX-5 and tighten lug nuts in a star pattern with a torque wrench: Torque to 108 Nm (80 ft-lbs).

âś… After Repair

  • Start the CX-5 and turn the steering wheel lock-to-lock to confirm smooth movement and no binding.
  • Road test at low speed first; verify the steering wheel is close to centered and there are no clunks.
  • Get a front-end alignment as soon as possible.
  • Recheck the cotter pin and lug nut torque after your first short drive.

đź’° DIY vs Shop Cost

Shop Cost: ₹4,000-₹9,000 (parts + labor + basic alignment varies)

DIY Cost: ₹1,200-₹3,500 (parts only)

You Save: ₹2,500-₹6,500 by doing it yourself!

Shop labor rates vary but typically run $100-$150/hour. This repair takes a shop approximately 1.0-1.5 hours.


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