🔧 CX-5 - Outer Tie Rod End Replacement

The outer tie rod end connects your steering rack to the wheel knuckle and lets you steer. Replacing it is straightforward, but it can change your alignment, so you’ll want an alignment check after the install.

Difficulty Level: Intermediate | Estimated Time: 1.0-2.0 hours (one side)

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⚠️ Safety & Precautions

• 🛑 Support your CX-5 on jack stands before working underneath.
• Keep fingers clear when separating the joint; it can pop loose suddenly.
• Do not hammer directly on the steering knuckle threads.
• Plan for a wheel alignment after replacement (recommended).

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🔧 Required Tools

You'll need the following tools for this repair:

• Floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum)
• Jack stands (rated 3-ton minimum)
• Wheel chocks
• Lug nut socket (21mm)
• Breaker bar (1/2")
• Torque wrench (20-200 Nm range)
• Open-end wrench (19mm)
• Adjustable wrench (12")
• Pliers
• Diagonal cutters
• Tie rod end puller (specialty)
• Penetrating oil
• Paint marker
• Tape measure
• Safety glasses
• Nitrile gloves

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🔩 Required Parts

HowToo sells all the parts you need for this repair:

• Outer tie rod end - Qty: 1
• Cotter pin - Qty: 1
• Thread locker (medium strength) - Qty: 1

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📋 Before You Begin

• Park on level ground, set the parking brake, and chock the rear wheels.
• Loosen the front wheel lug nuts slightly before lifting (do not remove yet).
• Measure and note your current toe as a reference: use a tape measure to measure the distance between the front edges of the front tires (at hub height), then the rear edges.
• Spray penetrating oil on the tie rod end jam nut and the stud nut threads and let it soak for a few minutes.

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🔨 Step-by-Step Instructions

Follow these steps in order:

Step 1: Lift and remove the wheel

• Use a 21mm lug nut socket and breaker bar to loosen lug nuts (if not already).
• Lift the front corner with a floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum) and support with jack stands (rated 3-ton minimum).
• Remove the lug nuts with the 21mm lug nut socket and remove the wheel.

Step 2: Mark the tie rod end position

• Use a paint marker to mark the position of the jam nut relative to the outer tie rod end.
• Also mark the outer tie rod end against the threads so you can return it close to the original position.
• This helps keep alignment close.

Step 3: Loosen the jam nut

• Hold the inner tie rod (or the flats on the outer tie rod end, if present) with an adjustable wrench (12").
• Use a 19mm open-end wrench to loosen the jam nut (do not spin it far; 1-2 turns is enough).

Step 4: Remove the cotter pin and stud nut

• Straighten and remove the cotter pin using pliers and diagonal cutters.
• Remove the tie rod end stud nut using a 19mm open-end wrench.

Step 5: Separate the tie rod end from the steering knuckle

• Install a tie rod end puller (specialty) onto the joint and tighten until the stud pops free.
• A puller avoids knuckle damage.

Step 6: Remove the old tie rod end

• Unscrew the outer tie rod end by hand once it’s free.
• Count the turns as you remove it (example: “17 turns”). Write the number down.

Step 7: Install the new outer tie rod end

• Thread the new outer tie rod end on the same number of turns you counted.
• Line up your paint marker marks as closely as possible.
• If your new part includes a jam nut, thread it on and set it to the same position as before.

Step 8: Install the stud into the knuckle and torque

• Insert the tie rod end stud into the steering knuckle.
• Install the stud nut by hand, then tighten using a 19mm open-end wrench.
• Torque to 37-49 Nm (27-36 ft-lbs), then tighten further as needed to align the cotter pin hole (do not loosen to align).
• Install a new cotter pin using pliers and bend the ends over.

Step 9: Tighten the jam nut

• Hold the outer tie rod end with an adjustable wrench (12").
• Tighten the jam nut using a 19mm open-end wrench.
• Torque to 50-65 Nm (37-48 ft-lbs).
• If you use thread locker (medium strength), apply a small amount to the jam nut threads before final tightening.

Step 10: Reinstall the wheel and lower the vehicle

• Reinstall the wheel and hand-thread the lug nuts.
• Lower the CX-5 off the jack stands using the floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum).
• Tighten lug nuts in a star pattern with a torque wrench.
• Torque to 108-147 Nm (80-108 ft-lbs).

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✅ After Repair

• Turn the steering wheel lock-to-lock while stopped and listen for clunks.
• Test drive at low speed first; verify steering wheel is close to centered.
• Get a professional alignment as soon as possible to prevent tire wear.
• Recheck the jam nut and lug nut torque after 25-50 miles.

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💰 DIY vs Shop Cost

Shop Cost: $220-$450 (parts + labor + alignment varies)

DIY Cost: $35-$110 (parts only)

You Save: $110-$340 by doing it yourself!

Shop labor rates vary but typically run $100-$150/hour. This repair takes a shop approximately 1.0-1.5 hours.

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🎯 Ready to get started?

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