How to Replace the Outer Tie Rod End on a 2019 Jeep Grand Cherokee
Step-by-step steering repair guide with tools, parts, torque specs, and alignment tips for 2016, 2017, 2018, 2019, 2020, 2021
How to Replace the Outer Tie Rod End on a 2019 Jeep Grand Cherokee
Step-by-step steering repair guide with tools, parts, torque specs, and alignment tips for 2016, 2017, 2018, 2019, 2020, 2021
🔧 Grand Cherokee - Outer Tie Rod End Replacement
This repair replaces a worn outer tie rod end, which connects the steering rack to the front wheel knuckle and helps aim the wheel when you steer. A bad tie rod end can cause looseness, clunking, uneven tire wear, or wandering steering.
Difficulty Level: Intermediate | Estimated Time: 1-2 hours per side
⚠️ Safety & Precautions
- ⚠️ Support your Grand Cherokee with jack stands before working under or beside it. Never rely on a floor jack alone.
- ⚠️ The steering and suspension hold vehicle weight and alignment. Work slowly and keep parts installed until instructed to remove them.
- ⚠️ Replace tie rod ends in pairs if both sides show wear, but complete one side at a time so you can compare the other side.
- ⚠️ An alignment is required after replacement to prevent tire wear and poor steering feel.
- ⚠️ Battery disconnect is not required for this repair.
🔧 Required Tools
You'll need the following tools for this repair:
- Floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum)
- Jack stands (rated 3-ton minimum)
- Wheel chocks
- 22mm lug nut socket
- 1/2-inch drive breaker bar
- 1/2-inch drive torque wrench
- 21mm wrench
- 24mm wrench
- 18mm socket
- Ratchet
- Tie rod end puller (specialty)
- Needle-nose pliers
- Paint marker
- Tape measure
- Wire brush
- Penetrating oil
- Grease gun (if serviceable tie rod end is used)
- Nitrile gloves
- Safety glasses
🔩 Required Parts
HowToo sells all the parts you need for this repair:
- Outer tie rod end - Qty: 1 per side
- Outer tie rod end cotter pin - Qty: 1 per side
- Outer tie rod end castle nut - Qty: 1 per side
- Chassis grease - Qty: 1 tube if serviceable tie rod end is used
📋 Before You Begin
- 🅿️ Park on level ground, shift to Park, and apply the parking brake.
- 🧱 Place wheel chocks behind the rear wheels.
- 📏 Keep the steering wheel straight and do not turn it while the tie rod is disconnected.
- 🖊️ Mark and measure the old tie rod position before removal. This helps you drive safely to the alignment shop, but it does not replace an alignment.
- 💡 A tie rod end puller is a tool that presses the tapered stud out of the steering knuckle without damaging the boot or threads.
🔨 Step-by-Step Instructions
Follow these steps in order:
Step 1: Loosen the Front Wheel
- Use a 22mm lug nut socket and 1/2-inch drive breaker bar to loosen the front lug nuts about half a turn.
- Do not remove the lug nuts yet.
- Loosen lugs before lifting.
Step 2: Raise and Support the Vehicle
- Use a floor jack at the correct front lift point to raise the front of your Grand Cherokee.
- Place jack stands under the front support points.
- Gently lower the vehicle onto the jack stands.
- Lightly shake the vehicle by hand to confirm it is stable.
Step 3: Remove the Wheel
- Use the 22mm lug nut socket and ratchet to remove the loosened lug nuts.
- Remove the wheel and set it flat away from your work area.
Step 4: Clean and Mark the Tie Rod Position
- Use a wire brush to clean the outer tie rod threads and jam nut area.
- Spray the jam nut and outer tie rod threads with penetrating oil.
- Use a paint marker to mark the inner tie rod threads where the outer tie rod end stops.
- Use a tape measure to measure from a fixed point on the inner tie rod to the center of the outer tie rod stud. Write this measurement down.
- Marking helps preserve basic alignment.
Step 5: Loosen the Jam Nut
- The jam nut locks the outer tie rod end in place on the threaded inner tie rod.
- Hold the outer tie rod end steady with a 21mm wrench.
- Use a 24mm wrench to loosen the jam nut about one turn.
- Do not move the jam nut farther than needed.
Step 6: Remove the Cotter Pin and Castle Nut
- Use needle-nose pliers to straighten and pull out the cotter pin from the tie rod end stud.
- A cotter pin is a small safety pin that keeps the nut from backing off.
- Use an 18mm socket and ratchet to remove the castle nut from the tie rod end stud.
- A castle nut has slots at the top so the cotter pin can pass through it.
Step 7: Separate the Tie Rod End from the Steering Knuckle
- Install the tie rod end puller over the tie rod end and steering knuckle connection.
- Use the correct drive on the ratchet to tighten the puller until the stud pops free from the steering knuckle.
- Keep your fingers away from the joint while applying pressure.
- Do not hit the aluminum steering knuckle hard with a hammer.
Step 8: Count Turns and Remove the Old Tie Rod End
- Turn the outer tie rod end counterclockwise by hand to remove it from the inner tie rod.
- Count the exact number of full turns as it comes off.
- Write down the number of turns.
- Match the turns during installation.
Step 9: Install the New Tie Rod End
- Thread the new outer tie rod end onto the inner tie rod by hand.
- Use the same number of turns counted during removal.
- Line it up with your paint marker mark and the measurement you recorded with the tape measure.
- Make sure the tie rod end stud points down into the steering knuckle.
Step 10: Attach the Tie Rod End to the Steering Knuckle
- Insert the new tie rod end stud into the steering knuckle.
- Install the new castle nut by hand first to avoid cross-threading.
- Use an 18mm socket and torque wrench to tighten the castle nut to Torque to 75 Nm (55 ft-lbs).
- If the cotter pin hole does not line up, tighten the nut slightly more until the slot lines up. Do not loosen the nut to line it up.
- Install the new cotter pin with needle-nose pliers and bend the ends around the nut.
Step 11: Tighten the Jam Nut
- Hold the outer tie rod end steady with a 21mm wrench.
- Use a 24mm wrench to tighten the jam nut against the outer tie rod end.
- Tighten the jam nut to Torque to 75 Nm (55 ft-lbs) if using a compatible crowfoot adapter with your torque wrench.
- If you do not have a crowfoot adapter, tighten it firmly with the wrench and have the alignment shop verify final torque.
Step 12: Grease the Tie Rod End if Required
- If the new tie rod end has a grease fitting, use a grease gun to add chassis grease.
- Stop when the rubber boot begins to swell slightly.
- Do not overfill the boot.
Step 13: Reinstall the Wheel
- Lift the wheel onto the hub by hand.
- Install the lug nuts by hand first.
- Use a 22mm lug nut socket and ratchet to snug the lug nuts in a star pattern.
Step 14: Lower the Vehicle and Torque the Lug Nuts
- Use the floor jack to raise your Grand Cherokee slightly off the jack stands.
- Remove the jack stands.
- Lower the vehicle fully to the ground.
- Use a 22mm lug nut socket and torque wrench to tighten the lug nuts in a star pattern to Torque to 176 Nm (130 ft-lbs).
✅ After Repair
- ✅ Turn the steering wheel slowly left and right while parked. Listen for clunks and check that nothing binds.
- ✅ Test drive slowly at first. If the steering wheel is off-center or the vehicle pulls, stop driving except to go for alignment.
- ✅ Schedule a professional front-end alignment immediately after replacing the tie rod end.
- ✅ Recheck the lug nut torque after 25-50 miles using the 22mm lug nut socket and torque wrench.
- ✅ If the tie rod end has a grease fitting, inspect the boot after driving to make sure it is not split or overfilled.
💰 DIY vs Shop Cost
Shop Cost: $250-$500 per side including parts, labor, and alignment estimate
DIY Cost: $35-$120 per side for parts only, plus alignment
You Save: $150-$300 by doing it yourself!
Shop labor rates vary but typically run $100-$150/hour. This repair takes a shop approximately 1-1.5 hours plus alignment time.
🎯 Ready to get started?
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