🔧 Traverse - Tie Rod End Replacement

Tie rod ends connect your steering rack to the front wheel knuckle and control toe alignment. Replacing a worn tie rod end can fix clunking, loose steering, or uneven tire wear, but you’ll need an alignment afterward.

Difficulty Level: Intermediate | Estimated Time: 1.0-2.5 hours

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⚠️ Safety & Precautions

• 🛑 Support your Traverse with jack stands; never work under a jack-only vehicle.
• 🛑 Keep hands clear of pinch points while turning the steering.
• 🛑 Do not drive fast until a professional alignment is done.
• 🛑 If you’re replacing an inner tie rod, don’t rotate or damage the steering rack boot (the rubber bellows cover).

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🔧 Required Tools

You'll need the following tools for this repair:

• Floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum)
• Jack stands (rated 3-ton minimum)
• Wheel chocks
• Lug nut socket 22mm
• Breaker bar 1/2" drive
• Torque wrench 10-200 ft-lbs
• Socket set 3/8" and 1/2" drive
• Combination wrench set (metric)
• Pliers
• Side cutters
• Tie rod end puller (specialty)
• Penetrating oil
• Paint marker
• Tape measure
• Safety glasses
• Mechanic gloves

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🔩 Required Parts

HowToo sells all the parts you need for this repair:

• Outer tie rod end - Qty: 1
• Cotter pin for tie rod end - Qty: 1
• Thread locker (medium strength) - Qty: 1

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📋 Before You Begin

• Park on level ground, turn the wheel straight, and set the parking brake.
• Chock the rear wheels with wheel chocks.
• Loosen the front wheel lug nuts slightly using a 22mm lug nut socket and breaker bar.
• Lift the front corner and support with jack stands under the proper lift point.
• Tip: Replace tie rods in pairs if both are worn.

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🔨 Step-by-Step Instructions

Follow these steps in order:

Step 1: Remove the front wheel

• Remove the lug nuts using a 22mm lug nut socket and take the wheel off.

Step 2: Locate the outer tie rod end

• The outer tie rod end is the small ball-and-socket joint at the steering knuckle, with a threaded shaft going into the steering link.
• Spray the jam nut and threads with penetrating oil.

Step 3: Mark the current adjustment

• Use a paint marker to mark the position of the jam nut on the threads.
• Use a tape measure to measure from a fixed point (like the end of the inner tie rod) to the center of the outer tie rod stud and write it down.
• Tip: This helps keep toe close for the drive to alignment.

Step 4: Loosen the jam nut

• Hold the inner tie rod with a combination wrench (metric) if needed, and loosen the jam nut using a combination wrench (metric).
• Only break it loose; don’t spin it far yet.

Step 5: Remove the cotter pin (if equipped)

• Straighten and remove the cotter pin using pliers and/or side cutters.
• If your Traverse uses a locking nut with no cotter pin, skip this step.

Step 6: Remove the tie rod end nut

• Remove the nut from the tie rod stud using the appropriate socket and ratchet.
• If the stud spins, use a combination wrench (metric) on the stud’s flats (if present) while loosening the nut.

Step 7: Separate the tie rod end from the knuckle

• Install and tighten a tie rod end puller (specialty) until the stud pops free.
• A tie rod puller is a clamp tool that pushes the stud out without damaging the joint.
• Do not hammer directly on the stud threads.

Step 8: Remove the outer tie rod end from the inner threads

• Spin the outer tie rod end off by turning it counterclockwise by hand.
• Count the exact number of turns it takes to remove it (example: 17.5 turns) and write it down.

Step 9: Install the new outer tie rod end

• Thread the new tie rod end on the same number of turns you counted.
• Align it so the stud points down into the knuckle.
• Apply a small amount of thread locker (medium strength) to the jam nut threads if your replacement instructions call for it.

Step 10: Attach the tie rod stud to the knuckle

• Insert the stud into the steering knuckle.
• Install the nut using the correct socket and ratchet.
• Torque to manufacturer spec using a torque wrench (spec varies by hardware style; if you share whether it’s cotter-pin style or locking-nut style, I’ll give the exact Traverse spec).
• If it uses a cotter pin: align the nut’s slot and install a new cotter pin using pliers.

Step 11: Tighten the jam nut

• Hold the inner tie rod with a combination wrench (metric).
• Tighten the jam nut against the outer tie rod end using a combination wrench (metric).
• Torque to manufacturer spec using a torque wrench if you have a crowfoot adapter; otherwise tighten firmly and recheck after alignment.

Step 12: Reinstall the wheel

• Reinstall the wheel and hand-thread lug nuts.
• Lower the vehicle and torque lug nuts in a star pattern using a torque wrench.
• Torque to 190 Nm (140 ft-lbs)

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✅ After Repair

• Turn the steering wheel lock-to-lock slowly and confirm nothing binds or rubs.
• Road test at low speed and confirm the steering wheel returns normally and there are no clunks.
• Get a front toe alignment as soon as possible (same day is ideal).
• Recheck the jam nut tightness after your test drive.

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💰 DIY vs Shop Cost

Shop Cost: $220-$450 (parts + labor + alignment)

DIY Cost: $35-$120 (parts only)

You Save: $185-$330 by doing it yourself!

Shop labor rates vary but typically run $100-$150/hour. This repair takes a shop approximately 1.0-1.5 hours.

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🎯 Ready to get started?

HowToo makes it easy: same-day/2-day shipping on every part, plus all the tools and specialty tools you need! Check out the parts and tools sections below to add everything to your cart.