🔧 Impreza - Outer Tie Rod End Replacement

The outer tie rod end connects your steering rack to the steering knuckle and lets the front wheels steer. Replacing it restores tight steering and prevents uneven tire wear when the joint is loose or the boot is torn.

Difficulty Level: Intermediate | Estimated Time: 1.5-3 hours

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⚠️ Safety & Precautions

• 🛑 Support the front of your Impreza on jack stands—never rely on a floor jack.
• 🛞 Chock the rear wheels with wheel chocks and keep the car on level ground.
• 🔥 Avoid working on hot brakes/rotors if you just drove the car.
• 🧭 A tie rod end replacement can change wheel alignment (toe). Plan on a professional alignment after the repair.
• 🔩 Always install a new cotter pin; never reuse the old one.

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🔧 Required Tools

You'll need the following tools for this repair:

• Floor jack (rated 2-ton minimum)
• Jack stands (rated 2-ton minimum)
• Wheel chocks
• Safety glasses
• Mechanic gloves
• 19mm socket
• 1/2" drive breaker bar
• 3/8" drive ratchet
• 17mm socket
• 19mm open-end wrench
• Adjustable wrench (10")
• Needle-nose pliers
• Torque wrench (10–150 ft-lbs range)
• Tie rod end puller (specialty)
• Penetrating oil
• Paint marker
• Tape measure
• Wire brush

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🔩 Required Parts

HowToo sells all the parts you need for this repair:

• Outer tie rod end - Qty: 1
• Cotter pin (new) - Qty: 1
• Anti-seize compound - Qty: 1

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📋 Before You Begin

• Park on level ground, straighten the steering wheel, and set the parking brake.
• Loosen the front wheel lug nuts slightly before lifting the car.
• Spray penetrating oil on the tie rod end castle nut and the jam nut (lock nut) threads; let it soak 5–10 minutes.
• Use a paint marker to mark the jam nut position on the threads. This helps keep alignment close enough to drive to the alignment shop.

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🔨 Step-by-Step Instructions

Follow these steps in order:

Step 1: Lift and remove the wheel

• Use a 19mm socket and breaker bar to loosen the lug nuts 1/2 turn.
• Lift the front corner with a floor jack and support with jack stands.
• Remove the lug nuts with a 19mm socket and take the wheel off.

Step 2: Mark and measure to preserve alignment

• Use a paint marker to mark the jam nut and the inner tie rod threads.
• Use a tape measure to measure from the center of the outer tie rod ball stud to the jam nut; write it down.
• These steps help keep toe close.

Step 3: Remove the cotter pin and loosen the castle nut

• Straighten and remove the cotter pin using needle-nose pliers.
• Clean exposed threads with a wire brush.
• Use a 17mm socket to loosen (but do not fully remove yet) the tie rod end castle nut.

Step 4: Separate the tie rod end from the steering knuckle

• Install the tie rod end puller (specialty) over the joint and tighten it with a 3/8" drive ratchet until the stud “pops” free.
• A tie rod end puller is a clamp-style tool that presses the stud out without hammering.
• Now remove the castle nut fully using the 17mm socket, and lift the tie rod end stud out of the knuckle.

Step 5: Loosen the jam nut (lock nut)

• Hold the inner tie rod area steady with an adjustable wrench (10") if needed.
• Use a 19mm open-end wrench to loosen the jam nut by turning it counterclockwise.
• Do not move the jam nut far—just break it loose.

Step 6: Remove the old outer tie rod end

• Spin the outer tie rod end off by hand.
• Count the turns as you remove it (example: 17 turns). Write the number down.

Step 7: Install the new outer tie rod end

• Apply a light coat of anti-seize compound to the threads.
• Thread the new tie rod end on the same number of turns you counted during removal.
• Line it up to match your measurement from Step 2 as closely as possible.

Step 8: Seat the stud into the knuckle and torque the castle nut

• Insert the tie rod end stud into the steering knuckle.
• Thread the castle nut on by hand, then tighten with a 17mm socket.
• Final tighten with a torque wrench: Torque to 37 Nm (27 ft-lbs).
• If the cotter pin hole doesn’t line up, tighten slightly more (never loosen to align).
• Install a new cotter pin using needle-nose pliers and bend the ends over.

Step 9: Tighten the jam nut (lock nut)

• Hold the tie rod end body with an adjustable wrench (10") to keep it from twisting.
• Tighten the jam nut with a 19mm open-end wrench.
• Final tighten with a torque wrench: Torque to 70 Nm (52 ft-lbs).

Step 10: Reinstall the wheel and lower the car

• Reinstall the wheel and hand-thread lug nuts.
• Lower the car off the jack stands using the floor jack.
• Tighten lug nuts in a star pattern with a torque wrench: Torque to 120 Nm (88.5 ft-lbs).

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✅ After Repair

• Turn the steering wheel lock-to-lock while parked and confirm nothing binds or rubs.
• Test drive at low speed first. Confirm the steering wheel is centered and the car doesn’t pull.
• Get a professional 4-wheel alignment as soon as possible to prevent tire wear.
• Re-check the castle nut/cotter pin is properly installed after the test drive.

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💰 DIY vs Shop Cost

Shop Cost: $250-$450 (parts + labor + alignment)

DIY Cost: $40-$120 (parts only)

You Save: $210-$330 by doing it yourself!

Shop labor rates vary but typically run $100-$150/hour. This repair takes a shop approximately 1.0-1.5 hours.

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🎯 Ready to get started?

HowToo makes it easy: same-day/2-day shipping on every part, plus all the tools and specialty tools you need! Check out the parts and tools sections below to add everything to your cart.