🔧 Crosstrek - Outer Tie Rod End Replacement

The outer tie rod end connects your steering rack to the steering knuckle. Replacing it restores tight steering and helps prevent uneven tire wear. You’ll also want an alignment afterward to protect your tires.

Difficulty Level: Intermediate | Estimated Time: 1-2 hours

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⚠️ Safety & Precautions

• ⚠️ Support your Crosstrek on jack stands; never rely on a jack alone.
• ⚠️ Keep hands clear when separating the tie rod end; the joint can release suddenly.
• ⚠️ Do not hammer directly on the threaded stud; you can ruin the threads.
• ⚠️ After replacement, get a professional alignment ASAP to avoid rapid tire wear.

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🔧 Required Tools

You'll need the following tools for this repair:

• Floor jack (rated 2-ton minimum)
• Jack stands (rated 2-ton minimum)
• Wheel chocks
• Safety glasses
• Mechanic gloves
• 19mm socket
• 1/2" drive breaker bar
• 1/2" drive torque wrench (20-150 ft-lbs)
• 17mm socket
• 19mm open-end wrench
• Needle-nose pliers
• Diagonal cutters
• Penetrating oil
• Paint marker
• Tape measure
• Tie rod end puller (specialty)

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🔩 Required Parts

HowToo sells all the parts you need for this repair:

• Outer tie rod end - Qty: 1
• Cotter pin - Qty: 1

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📋 Before You Begin

• Park on level ground, put the transmission in 1st gear, and set the parking brake.
• Chock the rear wheels with wheel chocks.
• Use a paint marker to mark the tie rod end and jam nut position for reference.
• Measure the distance from the jam nut to the tie rod end (write it down). This helps keep the toe close until alignment.
• Tip: Spray penetrating oil now; wait 5 minutes.

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🔨 Step-by-Step Instructions

Follow these steps in order:

Step 1: Loosen the wheel lug nuts

• Use a 19mm socket and breaker bar to loosen the lug nuts about 1/2 turn while the tire is on the ground.

Step 2: Lift and support the front corner

• Use a floor jack (rated 2-ton minimum) to lift at the correct front jack point.
• Place jack stands (rated 2-ton minimum) under the proper support point and lower onto the stands.
• Keep the floor jack lightly touching as a backup (don’t support the vehicle with it).

Step 3: Remove the wheel

• Use a 19mm socket to remove the lug nuts, then remove the wheel.

Step 4: Mark and measure the tie rod end position

• Use a paint marker to mark the jam nut and tie rod end relationship.
• Use a tape measure to measure the exposed threads or the jam-nut-to-end distance, and record it.

Step 5: Remove the cotter pin from the tie rod end stud

• Use needle-nose pliers to straighten the cotter pin legs.
• Use diagonal cutters and needle-nose pliers to pull the cotter pin out.
• Tip: If it breaks, push pieces out carefully.

Step 6: Remove the tie rod end castle nut

• Use a 17mm socket to remove the castle nut from the stud.
• If the stud spins, use the tie rod end puller (specialty) to keep pressure on the taper while removing the nut.
• A tie rod end puller is a screw-type tool that presses the stud out of the knuckle without hammering.

Step 7: Separate the tie rod end from the steering knuckle

• Install the tie rod end puller (specialty) on the joint and tighten until the stud “pops” free from the knuckle.
• Remove the tie rod end from the knuckle.

Step 8: Loosen the jam nut

• Hold the tie rod end with a 19mm open-end wrench (if needed).
• Use a 19mm open-end wrench to break the jam nut loose (turn it counterclockwise when facing it).

Step 9: Unscrew and count turns

• Spin the tie rod end off by hand while counting the exact number of turns until it comes off.
• Write the number down. This is important.

Step 10: Install the new outer tie rod end

• Thread the new tie rod end on by hand the same number of turns you counted.
• Line it up to match your measurement/paint marks.

Step 11: Attach the tie rod end to the steering knuckle

• Insert the stud into the knuckle.
• Install the new nut and tighten using a 17mm socket.
• Torque to 37 Nm (27 ft-lbs), then tighten further only as needed to align the cotter pin hole.
• Install a new cotter pin and bend the legs using needle-nose pliers.

Step 12: Tighten the jam nut

• Hold the tie rod end and tighten the jam nut using a 19mm open-end wrench.
• Torque to 55 Nm (41 ft-lbs)

Step 13: Reinstall the wheel and lower the vehicle

• Reinstall the wheel and hand-thread the lug nuts.
• Lower the vehicle using the floor jack (rated 2-ton minimum) and remove the jack stands.
• Torque lug nuts in a star pattern using a torque wrench: Torque to 120 Nm (89 ft-lbs)

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✅ After Repair

• Turn the steering wheel lock-to-lock and make sure nothing binds or rubs.
• Road test at low speed first; confirm steering feels normal and there’s no clunking.
• Get a front-end alignment as soon as possible (recommended same day).
• Recheck the jam nut and lug nut torque after a short drive.

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💰 DIY vs Shop Cost

Shop Cost: ₹6,000-₹15,000 (parts + labor + alignment)

DIY Cost: ₹1,500-₹5,000 (parts only)

You Save: ₹4,500-₹10,000 by doing it yourself!

Shop labor rates vary but typically run $100-$150/hour. This repair takes a shop approximately 1-2 hours.

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🎯 Ready to get started?

HowToo makes it easy: same-day/2-day shipping on every part, plus all the tools and specialty tools you need! Check out the parts and tools sections below to add everything to your cart.