🔧 BRZ - Outer Tie Rod End Replacement

The outer tie rod end connects your steering rack to the front wheel knuckle. Replacing it restores tight steering and helps prevent uneven tire wear when the joint is loose or torn.

Difficulty Level: Intermediate | Estimated Time: 1-2 hours (one side)

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⚠️ Safety & Precautions

• 🛑 Support the car with jack stands; never rely on a jack.
• 🧤 Wear safety glasses and gloves; rust/dirt falls when separating the joint.
• 🔥 Work on a cool car; brakes and exhaust can be hot.
• 📏 You must get a front alignment after this repair to prevent tire wear.

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🔧 Required Tools

You'll need the following tools for this repair:

• Floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum)
• Jack stands (rated 3-ton minimum)
• Wheel chocks
• Safety glasses
• Mechanic gloves
• Breaker bar 1/2"
• Torque wrench 3/8" drive (10-100 ft-lbs range)
• Torque wrench 1/2" drive (50-150 ft-lbs range)
• Socket set metric 10mm-22mm
• 17mm socket
• 19mm socket
• 21mm socket
• Wrench set metric 14mm-22mm
• 19mm open-end wrench
• Needle-nose pliers
• Ball joint separator (specialty)
• Wire brush
• Paint marker
• Penetrating oil
• Tape measure

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🔩 Required Parts

HowToo sells all the parts you need for this repair:

• Outer tie rod end - Qty: 1
• Cotter pin (tie rod end castle nut) - Qty: 1

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📋 Before You Begin

• Park on level ground, set the parking brake, and chock the rear wheels.
• Keep the steering wheel centered and the key removed so the steering stays put.
• Spray penetrating oil on the tie rod end jam nut and the tie rod end stud nut.
• Plan for an alignment appointment right after the repair.

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🔨 Step-by-Step Instructions

Follow these steps in order:

Step 1: Loosen the front wheel lug nuts

• Use a 21mm socket and breaker bar to crack the lug nuts loose 1/4 turn (do not remove yet).

Step 2: Lift and support the front corner

• Use a floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum) to lift the front at the proper jack point.
• Set the car down onto jack stands (rated 3-ton minimum) and keep the wheel chocks in place.

Step 3: Remove the wheel

• Remove the lug nuts with a 21mm socket, then remove the wheel.

Step 4: Mark and measure for a “close” toe setting

• Use a paint marker to mark the tie rod end and the jam nut position.
• Use a tape measure to measure from the jam nut to the end of the threads and write it down.
• This helps you drive to alignment safely.

Step 5: Loosen the jam nut

• Hold the inner tie rod area steady with a 19mm open-end wrench (as needed) and loosen the jam nut using the 19mm open-end wrench.
• Only break it loose; do not spin it far yet.
• Jam nut = the “lock nut” behind the tie rod end.

Step 6: Remove the cotter pin

• Straighten and remove the cotter pin using needle-nose pliers.
• If it’s stuck, use a wire brush first and re-spray penetrating oil.

Step 7: Remove the tie rod end nut (castle nut)

• Remove the nut from the tie rod end stud using a 19mm socket and ratchet.

Step 8: Separate the tie rod end from the steering knuckle

• Install a ball joint separator (specialty) between the tie rod end and the knuckle, then tighten/operate it until the taper “pops” loose.
• Avoid hammering the stud threads.
• Steering knuckle = the part the wheel hub bolts to.

Step 9: Remove the old tie rod end

• Spin the tie rod end off by hand, counting the turns (example: “17 turns”).
• Write the number down—this helps get the new one close.

Step 10: Install the new tie rod end

• Thread the new tie rod end on the same number of turns you counted.
• Line it up to match your paint marks and your earlier measurement using the tape measure.

Step 11: Attach the tie rod end to the knuckle and torque the nut

• Insert the stud into the knuckle and install the nut by hand.
• Torque the nut using a torque wrench 3/8" drive and 19mm socket: Torque to 49 Nm (36 ft-lbs).
• If the cotter pin hole does not line up, tighten the nut slightly until it aligns (do not loosen to align).

Step 12: Install a new cotter pin

• Insert the new cotter pin and bend the ends over using needle-nose pliers.

Step 13: Tighten the jam nut

• Hold the tie rod end so it doesn’t twist and tighten the jam nut using a 19mm open-end wrench.
• Torque to 74 Nm (55 ft-lbs) using a torque wrench if you can fit it with your wrench adapter; otherwise tighten firmly to match typical 55 ft-lbs effort.

Step 14: Reinstall the wheel and torque lug nuts

• Install the wheel and hand-tighten the lug nuts using a 21mm socket.
• Lower the car from the jack stands using the floor jack.
• Torque lug nuts in a star pattern using a torque wrench 1/2" drive and 21mm socket: Torque to 120 Nm (89 ft-lbs).

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✅ After Repair

• Turn the steering wheel lock-to-lock while parked and listen for clicking or binding.
• Test drive slowly and confirm the steering wheel is close to centered.
• Get a professional front alignment as soon as possible.
• Recheck the cotter pin and jam nut for security after the first short drive.

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💰 DIY vs Shop Cost

Shop Cost: $220-$450 (parts + labor + basic alignment)

DIY Cost: $35-$120 (parts only)

You Save: $100-$330 by doing it yourself!

Shop labor rates vary but typically run $100-$150/hour. This repair takes a shop approximately 1.0-1.5 hours.

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🎯 Ready to get started?

HowToo makes it easy: same-day/2-day shipping on every part, plus all the tools and specialty tools you need! Check out the parts and tools sections below to add everything to your cart.