🔧 RX350 - Outer Tie Rod End Replacement

The outer tie rod end connects your steering rack (through the inner tie rod) to the steering knuckle at the wheel. Replacing it restores tight steering and fixes play, but you must keep the new part installed at nearly the same length to drive safely to an alignment.

Difficulty Level: Intermediate | Estimated Time: 1.0-2.0 hours (one side)

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⚠️ Safety & Precautions

• Work on level ground and support the RX350 with jack stands—never rely on a floor jack alone.
• Chock the rear wheels and keep the steering wheel centered/locked so you don’t damage steering components.
• After replacement, get a front wheel alignment ASAP; incorrect toe can destroy tires quickly.
• Replace the cotter pin with a new one (never reuse a cotter pin).

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🔧 Required Tools

You'll need the following tools for this repair:

• Floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum)
• Jack stands (rated 3-ton minimum)
• Wheel chocks
• Breaker bar 1/2"
• Torque wrench 10-200 Nm (7-150 ft-lbs)
• Metric socket set 10mm-24mm (1/2" drive)
• Metric wrench set 10mm-24mm
• Pliers
• Side cutters
• Tie rod end puller (specialty)
• Paint marker
• Tape measure
• Penetrating oil
• Safety glasses
• Mechanic gloves

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🔩 Required Parts

HowToo sells all the parts you need for this repair:

• Outer tie rod end - Qty: 1
• Cotter pin (outer tie rod end) - Qty: 1
• Front wheel alignment - Qty: 1

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📋 Before You Begin

• Park on level ground, center the steering wheel, and set the parking brake.
• Place wheel chocks behind both rear wheels.
• Loosen the front wheel lug nuts slightly before lifting (do not remove yet).
• Spray penetrating oil on the outer tie rod end jam nut threads and the castle nut area.

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🔨 Step-by-Step Instructions

Follow these steps in order:

Step 1: Lift and remove the front wheel

• Use a floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum) to lift at the front jacking point.
• Place jack stands (rated 3-ton minimum) under the proper support points and lower onto them.
• Remove the lug nuts using a metric socket set 10mm-24mm (1/2" drive) and take the wheel off.

Step 2: Mark the current toe setting (so you can match it)

• Use a paint marker to mark the position of the jam nut relative to the inner tie rod threads.
• Use a tape measure to measure from a fixed point on the outer tie rod end to a fixed point on the inner tie rod (or count exposed threads) and write it down.
• This helps you drive to alignment safely.

Step 3: Remove the cotter pin and loosen the castle nut

• Straighten and remove the cotter pin using pliers and side cutters.
• Loosen (but do not fully remove yet) the tie rod end castle nut using a metric socket set 10mm-24mm (1/2" drive) and a breaker bar 1/2".

Step 4: Separate the tie rod end from the steering knuckle

• Install a tie rod end puller (specialty) over the joint and tighten it until the stud pops free.
• Now fully remove the castle nut using the metric socket set 10mm-24mm (1/2" drive).
• A puller avoids boot damage.

Step 5: Loosen the jam nut and remove the old tie rod end

• Hold the inner tie rod with a metric wrench set 10mm-24mm (so it doesn’t twist).
• Loosen the jam nut using a metric wrench set 10mm-24mm.
• Spin the old outer tie rod end off while counting the exact number of turns (write it down).

Step 6: Install the new outer tie rod end (match the old length)

• Thread the new outer tie rod end on the same number of turns you counted, using your hands.
• Snug the jam nut up to the new tie rod end using a metric wrench set 10mm-24mm, keeping your paint marks aligned.

Step 7: Attach the stud to the steering knuckle and torque it

• Insert the tie rod end stud into the steering knuckle.
• Tighten the castle nut using a torque wrench 10-200 Nm (7-150 ft-lbs).
• Torque to 49 Nm (36 ft-lbs).
• Align the castle nut slot with the hole and install a new cotter pin using pliers.
• If the slot doesn’t line up, tighten slightly more to align (do not loosen to align).

Step 8: Torque the jam nut

• Hold the outer tie rod end with a metric wrench set 10mm-24mm so it doesn’t rotate.
• Tighten the jam nut using the torque wrench 10-200 Nm (7-150 ft-lbs).
• Torque to 74 Nm (55 ft-lbs).

Step 9: Reinstall the wheel and torque the lug nuts

• Reinstall the wheel and hand-start all lug nuts.
• Lower the RX350 off the jack stands using the floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum).
• Torque lug nuts in a star pattern using a torque wrench 10-200 Nm (7-150 ft-lbs).
• Torque to 103 Nm (76 ft-lbs).

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✅ After Repair

• With the engine on, turn the steering wheel lock-to-lock and confirm there’s no binding or clunking.
• Do a short, slow test drive and confirm the steering wheel is close to centered.
• Schedule a front wheel alignment immediately (same day if possible).
• Recheck the castle nut/cotter pin and jam nut area for anything loose after the test drive.

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💰 DIY vs Shop Cost

Shop Cost: $250-$500 (parts + labor + alignment)

DIY Cost: $40-$120 (parts only, alignment not included)

You Save: $130-$380 by doing it yourself!

Shop labor rates vary but typically run $100-$150/hour. This repair takes a shop approximately 1.0-1.5 hours.

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🎯 Ready to get started?

HowToo makes it easy: same-day/2-day shipping on every part, plus all the tools and specialty tools you need! Check out the parts and tools sections below to add everything to your cart.