🔧 Forte - Outer Tie Rod End Replacement

The outer tie rod end connects your steering rack to the front wheel knuckle. Replacing it fixes looseness, clunking, uneven tire wear, or a failed ball joint at the tie rod end.

Difficulty Level: Intermediate | Estimated Time: 1.0-2.0 hours (one side)

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⚠️ Safety & Precautions

• 🛑 Support your Forte with jack stands—never rely on a jack.
• 🧤 Wear eye protection when separating the joint (parts can pop loose).
• 🔥 Work on a cool car; brakes/rotors can be hot after driving.
• 🧭 Plan on getting an alignment after—tie rod changes affect toe and can ruin tires quickly.

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🔧 Required Tools

You'll need the following tools for this repair:

• Floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum)
• Jack stands (rated 3-ton minimum)
• Wheel chocks
• 21mm socket
• Breaker bar 1/2"
• Torque wrench 3/8" drive (10-100 ft-lbs)
• Torque wrench 1/2" drive (50-150 ft-lbs)
• 17mm wrench
• 19mm socket
• Needle-nose pliers
• Side cutters
• Tie rod end puller (specialty)
• Penetrating oil
• Paint marker
• Tape measure
• Safety glasses
• Mechanic gloves

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🔩 Required Parts

HowToo sells all the parts you need for this repair:

• Outer tie rod end - Qty: 1
• Cotter pin (tie rod end) - Qty: 1

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📋 Before You Begin

• 🧱 Park on level ground, set the parking brake, and chock the rear wheels.
• 🔁 Turn the steering wheel so the tie rod end you’re replacing is easy to access.
• 🖊️ Plan your “reference”: you’ll count turns and/or measure so the new end goes on close to the old position (this helps you drive to the alignment shop safely).

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🔨 Step-by-Step Instructions

Follow these steps in order:

Step 1: Loosen the wheel bolts

• Use a 21mm socket and breaker bar 1/2" to loosen the front wheel lug nuts about 1 turn (do not remove yet).

Step 2: Lift and support the front corner

• Use a floor jack at the correct front jacking point and raise the car.
• Set the car onto jack stands and keep the wheel chocks in place.
• Remove the wheel using the 21mm socket.

Step 3: Mark and measure the current position

• Spray the jam nut/threads with penetrating oil.
• Use a paint marker to mark the position of the jam nut on the threads.
• Use a tape measure to measure from a fixed point on the tie rod end to the center of the stud (write it down). This helps keep toe close.

Step 4: Loosen the tie rod end jam nut

• Hold the outer tie rod end with a 17mm wrench (if needed) and loosen the jam nut using a 17mm wrench.
• Do not spin the tie rod end off yet—just break the jam nut loose.

Step 5: Remove the cotter pin and the tie rod end nut

• Straighten and pull the cotter pin out using needle-nose pliers (use side cutters if it’s stuck).
• Remove the tie rod end castle nut using a 19mm socket.

Step 6: Separate the tie rod end from the steering knuckle

• Install a tie rod end puller (specialty) and tighten it until the stud pops free from the knuckle.
• A “puller” is a tool that presses the joint apart without hammering on parts.

Step 7: Remove the old tie rod end (count turns)

• Spin the tie rod end off the inner tie rod while counting the turns (example: 17.5 turns). Write the number down.
• If it binds, re-apply penetrating oil and work it slowly.

Step 8: Install the new tie rod end

• Thread the new tie rod end on the exact same number of turns you counted.
• Line up your paint marker reference so the jam nut ends up close to where it started.

Step 9: Reconnect the stud to the knuckle and torque

• Insert the stud into the steering knuckle.
• Install the new castle nut and tighten using a torque wrench 3/8" drive with a 19mm socket.
• Torque to 44 Nm (32 ft-lbs), then continue tightening only as needed to align the cotter pin hole (do not loosen to align).
• Install a new cotter pin using needle-nose pliers and bend the ends over.

Step 10: Tighten the jam nut

• Hold the tie rod end with a 17mm wrench and tighten the jam nut using a 17mm wrench.
• Torque to 55 Nm (41 ft-lbs)

Step 11: Reinstall the wheel and torque lug nuts

• Reinstall the wheel and hand-tighten lug nuts.
• Lower the car off the stands using the floor jack.
• Torque lug nuts in a star pattern using a torque wrench 1/2" drive and 21mm socket.
• Torque to 88-108 Nm (65-80 ft-lbs)

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✅ After Repair

• 🧪 Start the car and turn lock-to-lock slowly to confirm nothing binds or knocks.
• 🔎 Road test at low speed first; steering wheel may be slightly off-center.
• 🧭 Get a professional alignment as soon as possible (same day if you can).
• 👀 Recheck the castle nut/cotter pin and jam nut after the test drive.

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💰 DIY vs Shop Cost

Shop Cost: $180-$350 (parts + labor, plus alignment)

DIY Cost: $25-$85 (parts only, plus alignment)

You Save: $95-$265 by doing it yourself!

Shop labor rates vary but typically run $100-$150/hour. This repair takes a shop approximately 1.0-1.5 hours.

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🎯 Ready to get started?

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