🔧 Renegade - Tie Rod End Replacement

Replacing a tie rod end restores safe steering and prevents uneven tire wear. Because your Renegade can have different hardware/torque specs depending on whether it’s the outer tie rod end (at the steering knuckle) or the inner tie rod end (at the steering rack), I need one quick detail to give you the exact, trim-correct steps and torque specs.

Difficulty Level: Intermediate | Estimated Time: 1.0-2.0 hours (plus alignment)

---

⚠️ Safety & Precautions

• ⚠️ Support your Renegade on jack stands on level ground; never rely on a jack.
• ⚠️ Keep hands clear of pinch points while turning the steering/suspension.
• ⚠️ After any tie rod work, you should get a professional alignment to prevent tire wear and handling issues.

---

🔧 Required Tools

You'll need the following tools for this repair:

• Floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum)
• Jack stands (rated 3-ton minimum)
• Wheel chocks
• Safety glasses
• Mechanic gloves
• Breaker bar (1/2" drive)
• Torque wrench (20-200 ft-lbs range)
• Socket set (metric)
• Combination wrench set (metric)
• Pliers (needle-nose)
• Tie rod end puller (specialty)
• Paint marker
• Tape measure
• Penetrating oil
• Wire brush

---

🔩 Required Parts

HowToo sells all the parts you need for this repair:

• Outer tie rod end - Qty: 1
• Cotter pin (if equipped) - Qty: 1
• Jam nut (if required by the part kit) - Qty: 1

---

📋 Before You Begin

• Park on level ground, set the parking brake, and place wheel chocks behind the rear tires.
• Loosen the front wheel lug nuts slightly before lifting (use your breaker bar and correct lug socket).
• Quick questions (reply with 1 and 2):
  • 1) Are you replacing the outer tie rod end (at the wheel/knuckle) or the inner tie rod end (at the steering rack)?
  • 2) Which side: driver or passenger?

---

🔨 Step-by-Step Instructions

Follow these steps in order:

Step 1: Lift and secure the front corner

• Use a floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum) to lift the correct front corner at the proper jacking point.
• Set the vehicle down onto jack stands (rated 3-ton minimum).
• Remove the wheel using a lug socket (metric) and breaker bar (1/2" drive).

Step 2: Mark the current adjustment

• Clean the threads and jam nut area with a wire brush.
• Put a reference mark across the jam nut and tie rod threads with a paint marker.
• Measure the exposed thread length with a tape measure and write it down. This helps keep toe close.

Step 3: Separate the tie rod end from the steering knuckle

• Spray the nut and tapered stud area with penetrating oil.
• If there is a cotter pin, straighten and remove it using needle-nose pliers.
• Remove the tie rod end nut using the correct metric socket.
• Use a tie rod end puller (specialty) to pop the tapered stud out of the knuckle. (A puller is a tool that presses the joint apart without hammering.)

Step 4: Remove the tie rod end from the tie rod

• Hold the inner tie rod/adjuster with the correct combination wrench (metric).
• Loosen the jam nut using a second combination wrench (metric).
• Unscrew the tie rod end while counting turns (example: 17 turns). Write the number down.

Step 5: Install the new tie rod end

• Screw the new tie rod end on the same number of turns you counted in Step 4.
• Align it to your paint marks/exposed thread measurement using the paint marker and tape measure.
• Insert the stud into the steering knuckle by hand.

Step 6: Tighten fasteners (torque specs depend on inner/outer variant)

• Use a torque wrench (20-200 ft-lbs range) to torque the tie rod end-to-knuckle nut to the correct OEM specification.
• Tighten the jam nut using a combination wrench (metric), then torque it to the correct OEM specification if a spec is provided.
• If equipped, install a new cotter pin using needle-nose pliers after the nut is torqued.
• I’ll provide the exact torque values as soon as you answer the 2 questions in the “Before You Begin” section (outer vs inner, and which side). Different setups use different torque specs.

---

✅ After Repair

• Reinstall the wheel and snug lug nuts using a lug socket (metric).
• Lower the vehicle using the floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum), then torque lug nuts using the torque wrench (20-200 ft-lbs range) to the OEM spec.
• Turn the steering lock-to-lock and verify nothing binds or contacts.
• Drive slowly and listen for clunks, then schedule a 4-wheel alignment (recommended) ASAP.

---

💰 DIY vs Shop Cost

Shop Cost: $180-$450 (parts + labor + alignment varies)

DIY Cost: $35-$120 (parts only)

You Save: $145-$330 by doing it yourself!

Shop labor rates vary but typically run $100-$150/hour. This repair takes a shop approximately 1.0-1.5 hours.

---

🎯 Ready to get started?

HowToo makes it easy: same-day/2-day shipping on every part, plus all the tools and specialty tools you need! Check out the parts and tools sections below to add everything to your cart.