How to Replace the Outer Tie Rod End on a 2018 Jeep Grand Cherokee
Step-by-step DIY guide with tools, parts, torque specs, safety tips, and alignment notes for 2016, 2017, 2018, 2019, 2020, 2021
How to Replace the Outer Tie Rod End on a 2018 Jeep Grand Cherokee
Step-by-step DIY guide with tools, parts, torque specs, safety tips, and alignment notes for 2016, 2017, 2018, 2019, 2020, 2021
🔧 Grand Cherokee - Outer Tie Rod End Replacement
This repair replaces a worn outer tie rod end, which connects the steering rack to the front wheel knuckle and helps control wheel direction. A bad tie rod end can cause clunking, loose steering, uneven tire wear, or poor alignment.
Difficulty Level: Intermediate | Estimated Time: 1-2 hours per side
⚠️ Safety & Precautions
- ⚠️ Always support your Grand Cherokee with jack stands before working underneath or near the wheel area.
- ⚠️ Do not rely on the floor jack alone. A floor jack lifts the vehicle; jack stands hold it safely.
- ⚠️ The steering and suspension parts may be rusty or tight. Wear safety glasses and gloves.
- ⚠️ Replace tie rod ends in pairs if both sides show wear, but you can replace one side if only one is bad.
- ⚠️ A wheel alignment is required after this repair to prevent tire wear and poor steering feel.
🔧 Required Tools
You'll need the following tools for this repair:
- Floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum)
- Jack stands (rated 3-ton minimum)
- Wheel chocks
- 22mm lug nut socket
- 1/2-inch drive breaker bar
- 1/2-inch drive ratchet
- Torque wrench (up to 150 ft-lbs)
- Metric open-end wrench set
- Adjustable wrench
- Tie rod end puller (specialty)
- Needle-nose pliers
- Paint marker
- Tape measure
- Wire brush
- Penetrating oil
- Anti-seize compound
- Safety glasses
- Mechanic gloves
🔩 Required Parts
HowToo sells all the parts you need for this repair:
- Outer tie rod end - Qty: 1 per side
- New castle nut or flange nut - Qty: 1 per side, if not included
- New cotter pin - Qty: 1 per side, if equipped and not included
📋 Before You Begin
- Park your Grand Cherokee on level ground and set the parking brake.
- Place wheel chocks behind the rear wheels.
- Keep the steering wheel straight before lifting the front of the vehicle.
- Measure and mark the old tie rod position before removal. This keeps the alignment close enough to drive carefully to an alignment shop.
- Assumption: These steps cover the front outer tie rod end on your Grand Cherokee.
🔨 Step-by-Step Instructions
Follow these steps in order:
Step 1: Loosen the Front Wheel Lug Nuts
- Use a 22mm lug nut socket and 1/2-inch drive breaker bar to loosen the front wheel lug nuts about half a turn.
- Do this while the tire is still on the ground so the wheel does not spin.
- Do not remove the nuts yet.
Step 2: Lift and Support the Vehicle
- Use a floor jack at the front approved lift point to raise the front of your Grand Cherokee.
- Place jack stands under the proper front support points.
- Gently lower the vehicle onto the jack stands.
- Give the vehicle a light push from the side to make sure it is stable.
Step 3: Remove the Front Wheel
- Use the 22mm lug nut socket and 1/2-inch drive ratchet to remove the loosened lug nuts.
- Remove the wheel and set it flat under the side of the vehicle as an extra safety backup.
Step 4: Clean and Mark the Tie Rod Position
- Use a wire brush to clean the threads where the outer tie rod end screws onto the inner tie rod.
- Spray the threaded area and jam nut with penetrating oil.
- A jam nut is the lock nut that holds the outer tie rod end in position on the threaded inner tie rod.
- Use a paint marker to mark the tie rod end position on the threads.
- Use a tape measure to measure from the center of the tie rod stud to a fixed point on the inner tie rod, then write the measurement down.
- Count turns during removal.
Step 5: Loosen the Jam Nut
- Use a metric open-end wrench on the jam nut.
- Hold the tie rod end steady with an adjustable wrench if needed.
- Turn the jam nut loose about one turn only.
- Do not move it far from your paint mark.
Step 6: Remove the Tie Rod End Nut
- If your replacement style uses a cotter pin, use needle-nose pliers to straighten and remove the cotter pin from the tie rod stud.
- A cotter pin is a small bent safety pin that keeps the nut from backing off.
- Use the correct metric socket or open-end wrench to remove the nut from the tie rod stud at the steering knuckle.
- The steering knuckle is the heavy metal part that the wheel hub and steering parts attach to.
Step 7: Separate the Tie Rod End from the Steering Knuckle
- Install the tie rod end puller over the tie rod end and steering knuckle connection.
- A tie rod end puller is a specialty tool that presses the tapered stud out without damaging the steering knuckle.
- Tighten the puller with a 1/2-inch drive ratchet until the tie rod end pops loose.
- Keep your fingers away from the joint while applying pressure.
- The pop sound is normal.
Step 8: Unscrew the Old Outer Tie Rod End
- Turn the old tie rod end counterclockwise by hand or with an adjustable wrench.
- Count the exact number of turns until it comes off.
- Write the number down.
- Do not spin the jam nut from its marked position.
Step 9: Install the New Outer Tie Rod End
- Apply a light coat of anti-seize compound to the inner tie rod threads.
- Thread the new outer tie rod end on by hand the same number of turns you counted during removal.
- Use your tape measure to compare the new position to your original measurement.
- Adjust slightly if needed so it matches as closely as possible.
Step 10: Attach the Tie Rod End to the Steering Knuckle
- Insert the new tie rod end stud into the steering knuckle by hand.
- Install the new nut by hand first to avoid cross-threading.
- Use the correct metric socket and torque wrench to tighten the tie rod end nut.
- Torque to 75 Nm (55 ft-lbs), then tighten further as needed to align the cotter pin hole if equipped.
- If equipped, install the new cotter pin with needle-nose pliers and bend the ends around the nut.
Step 11: Tighten the Jam Nut
- Hold the outer tie rod end steady with an adjustable wrench.
- Use the correct metric open-end wrench to tighten the jam nut against the outer tie rod end.
- Torque to 75 Nm (55 ft-lbs) if your wrench access allows proper torque wrench use.
- Make sure the tie rod end boot is not twisted.
Step 12: Reinstall the Wheel
- Put the wheel back on the hub by hand.
- Install the lug nuts by hand first.
- Use the 22mm lug nut socket and 1/2-inch drive ratchet to snug the lug nuts in a star pattern.
Step 13: Lower the Vehicle and Torque the Lug Nuts
- Use the floor jack to lift the vehicle slightly off the jack stands.
- Remove the jack stands.
- Lower the vehicle until the tire touches the ground and cannot spin.
- Use the 22mm lug nut socket and torque wrench to tighten the lug nuts in a star pattern.
- Torque to 176 Nm (130 ft-lbs).
✅ After Repair
- ✅ Turn the steering wheel slowly left and right while parked. Listen for binding, clunks, or rubbing.
- ✅ Test drive slowly in a safe area first. The steering wheel may be off-center until alignment is performed.
- ✅ Schedule a professional front-end alignment immediately after replacing the tie rod end.
- ✅ Recheck the lug nut torque after 25-50 miles. Torque to 176 Nm (130 ft-lbs).
- ✅ If the steering feels loose, pulls hard, or the tire angle looks wrong, do not continue driving until inspected.
💰 DIY vs Shop Cost
Shop Cost: $250-$450 per side including parts, labor, and alignment estimate
DIY Cost: $40-$120 per side for parts, plus alignment
You Save: $150-$300 by doing it yourself!
Shop labor rates vary but typically run $100-$150/hour. This repair takes a shop approximately 1-1.5 hours plus alignment time.
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