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2018 Jeep Grand Cherokee
2016 - 2021 Jeep Grand Cherokee
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How to Replace Front Left Outer Tie Rod 2011-2021 Jeep Grand Cherokee

How to Replace Front Left Outer Tie Rod 2011-2021 Jeep Grand Cherokee

Suggested Parts

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Tools & Fluids

3 Ton
3 Ton
Floor Jack
3 Ton
3 Ton
Jack Stands
Wheel Chocks
Wheel Chocks
22mm
22mm
Socket
or (7/8")
1/2
1/2
Breaker Bar
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How to Replace the Outer Tie Rod End on a 2018 Jeep Grand Cherokee

Step-by-step DIY guide with tools, parts, torque specs, safety tips, and alignment notes for 2016, 2017, 2018, 2019, 2020, 2021

How to Replace the Outer Tie Rod End on a 2018 Jeep Grand Cherokee

Step-by-step DIY guide with tools, parts, torque specs, safety tips, and alignment notes for 2016, 2017, 2018, 2019, 2020, 2021

Orion
Orion

🔧 Grand Cherokee - Outer Tie Rod End Replacement

This repair replaces a worn outer tie rod end, which connects the steering rack to the front wheel knuckle and helps control wheel direction. A bad tie rod end can cause clunking, loose steering, uneven tire wear, or poor alignment.

Difficulty Level: Intermediate | Estimated Time: 1-2 hours per side


⚠️ Safety & Precautions

  • ⚠️ Always support your Grand Cherokee with jack stands before working underneath or near the wheel area.
  • ⚠️ Do not rely on the floor jack alone. A floor jack lifts the vehicle; jack stands hold it safely.
  • ⚠️ The steering and suspension parts may be rusty or tight. Wear safety glasses and gloves.
  • ⚠️ Replace tie rod ends in pairs if both sides show wear, but you can replace one side if only one is bad.
  • ⚠️ A wheel alignment is required after this repair to prevent tire wear and poor steering feel.

🔧 Required Tools

You'll need the following tools for this repair:

  • Floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum)
  • Jack stands (rated 3-ton minimum)
  • Wheel chocks
  • 22mm lug nut socket
  • 1/2-inch drive breaker bar
  • 1/2-inch drive ratchet
  • Torque wrench (up to 150 ft-lbs)
  • Metric open-end wrench set
  • Adjustable wrench
  • Tie rod end puller (specialty)
  • Needle-nose pliers
  • Paint marker
  • Tape measure
  • Wire brush
  • Penetrating oil
  • Anti-seize compound
  • Safety glasses
  • Mechanic gloves

🔩 Required Parts

HowToo sells all the parts you need for this repair:

  • Outer tie rod end - Qty: 1 per side
  • New castle nut or flange nut - Qty: 1 per side, if not included
  • New cotter pin - Qty: 1 per side, if equipped and not included

📋 Before You Begin

  • Park your Grand Cherokee on level ground and set the parking brake.
  • Place wheel chocks behind the rear wheels.
  • Keep the steering wheel straight before lifting the front of the vehicle.
  • Measure and mark the old tie rod position before removal. This keeps the alignment close enough to drive carefully to an alignment shop.
  • Assumption: These steps cover the front outer tie rod end on your Grand Cherokee.

🔨 Step-by-Step Instructions

Follow these steps in order:

Step 1: Loosen the Front Wheel Lug Nuts

  • Use a 22mm lug nut socket and 1/2-inch drive breaker bar to loosen the front wheel lug nuts about half a turn.
  • Do this while the tire is still on the ground so the wheel does not spin.
  • Do not remove the nuts yet.

Step 2: Lift and Support the Vehicle

  • Use a floor jack at the front approved lift point to raise the front of your Grand Cherokee.
  • Place jack stands under the proper front support points.
  • Gently lower the vehicle onto the jack stands.
  • Give the vehicle a light push from the side to make sure it is stable.

Step 3: Remove the Front Wheel

  • Use the 22mm lug nut socket and 1/2-inch drive ratchet to remove the loosened lug nuts.
  • Remove the wheel and set it flat under the side of the vehicle as an extra safety backup.

Step 4: Clean and Mark the Tie Rod Position

  • Use a wire brush to clean the threads where the outer tie rod end screws onto the inner tie rod.
  • Spray the threaded area and jam nut with penetrating oil.
  • A jam nut is the lock nut that holds the outer tie rod end in position on the threaded inner tie rod.
  • Use a paint marker to mark the tie rod end position on the threads.
  • Use a tape measure to measure from the center of the tie rod stud to a fixed point on the inner tie rod, then write the measurement down.
  • Count turns during removal.

Step 5: Loosen the Jam Nut

  • Use a metric open-end wrench on the jam nut.
  • Hold the tie rod end steady with an adjustable wrench if needed.
  • Turn the jam nut loose about one turn only.
  • Do not move it far from your paint mark.

Step 6: Remove the Tie Rod End Nut

  • If your replacement style uses a cotter pin, use needle-nose pliers to straighten and remove the cotter pin from the tie rod stud.
  • A cotter pin is a small bent safety pin that keeps the nut from backing off.
  • Use the correct metric socket or open-end wrench to remove the nut from the tie rod stud at the steering knuckle.
  • The steering knuckle is the heavy metal part that the wheel hub and steering parts attach to.

Step 7: Separate the Tie Rod End from the Steering Knuckle

  • Install the tie rod end puller over the tie rod end and steering knuckle connection.
  • A tie rod end puller is a specialty tool that presses the tapered stud out without damaging the steering knuckle.
  • Tighten the puller with a 1/2-inch drive ratchet until the tie rod end pops loose.
  • Keep your fingers away from the joint while applying pressure.
  • The pop sound is normal.

Step 8: Unscrew the Old Outer Tie Rod End

  • Turn the old tie rod end counterclockwise by hand or with an adjustable wrench.
  • Count the exact number of turns until it comes off.
  • Write the number down.
  • Do not spin the jam nut from its marked position.

Step 9: Install the New Outer Tie Rod End

  • Apply a light coat of anti-seize compound to the inner tie rod threads.
  • Thread the new outer tie rod end on by hand the same number of turns you counted during removal.
  • Use your tape measure to compare the new position to your original measurement.
  • Adjust slightly if needed so it matches as closely as possible.

Step 10: Attach the Tie Rod End to the Steering Knuckle

  • Insert the new tie rod end stud into the steering knuckle by hand.
  • Install the new nut by hand first to avoid cross-threading.
  • Use the correct metric socket and torque wrench to tighten the tie rod end nut.
  • Torque to 75 Nm (55 ft-lbs), then tighten further as needed to align the cotter pin hole if equipped.
  • If equipped, install the new cotter pin with needle-nose pliers and bend the ends around the nut.

Step 11: Tighten the Jam Nut

  • Hold the outer tie rod end steady with an adjustable wrench.
  • Use the correct metric open-end wrench to tighten the jam nut against the outer tie rod end.
  • Torque to 75 Nm (55 ft-lbs) if your wrench access allows proper torque wrench use.
  • Make sure the tie rod end boot is not twisted.

Step 12: Reinstall the Wheel

  • Put the wheel back on the hub by hand.
  • Install the lug nuts by hand first.
  • Use the 22mm lug nut socket and 1/2-inch drive ratchet to snug the lug nuts in a star pattern.

Step 13: Lower the Vehicle and Torque the Lug Nuts

  • Use the floor jack to lift the vehicle slightly off the jack stands.
  • Remove the jack stands.
  • Lower the vehicle until the tire touches the ground and cannot spin.
  • Use the 22mm lug nut socket and torque wrench to tighten the lug nuts in a star pattern.
  • Torque to 176 Nm (130 ft-lbs).

✅ After Repair

  • ✅ Turn the steering wheel slowly left and right while parked. Listen for binding, clunks, or rubbing.
  • ✅ Test drive slowly in a safe area first. The steering wheel may be off-center until alignment is performed.
  • ✅ Schedule a professional front-end alignment immediately after replacing the tie rod end.
  • ✅ Recheck the lug nut torque after 25-50 miles. Torque to 176 Nm (130 ft-lbs).
  • ✅ If the steering feels loose, pulls hard, or the tire angle looks wrong, do not continue driving until inspected.

💰 DIY vs Shop Cost

Shop Cost: $250-$450 per side including parts, labor, and alignment estimate

DIY Cost: $40-$120 per side for parts, plus alignment

You Save: $150-$300 by doing it yourself!

Shop labor rates vary but typically run $100-$150/hour. This repair takes a shop approximately 1-1.5 hours plus alignment time.


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