🔧 Fusion - Outer Tie Rod End Replacement

The outer tie rod end connects your steering rack to the front wheel knuckle, and it’s a common wear item that can cause loose steering, clunking, or uneven tire wear. Replacing it is straightforward, but you’ll need an alignment afterward to protect your tires.

Difficulty Level: Intermediate | Estimated Time: 1.0-2.0 hours (one side)

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⚠️ Safety & Precautions

• 🛑 Support the Fusion with jack stands; never rely on a jack.
• 🛑 Chock the rear wheels and work on level ground.
• 🛑 Keep hands clear when separating the joint (it can “pop” loose suddenly).
• 🛑 No high-voltage hybrid service is required for this job, but keep tools away from orange HV cables if you’re working nearby.

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🔧 Required Tools

You'll need the following tools for this repair:

• Floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum)
• Jack stands (rated 3-ton minimum)
• Wheel chocks
• Safety glasses
• Mechanic gloves
• 21mm socket
• 1/2" drive breaker bar
• 1/2" drive torque wrench (20-200 ft-lbs range)
• 18mm socket
• 21mm open-end wrench
• Needle-nose pliers
• Diagonal cutters
• Tie rod end puller (specialty)
• Penetrating oil
• Paint marker
• Tape measure
• Wire brush

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🔩 Required Parts

HowToo sells all the parts you need for this repair:

• Outer tie rod end - Qty: 1
• Cotter pin (new) - Qty: 1
• Anti-seize compound - Qty: 1

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📋 Before You Begin

• 🧭 Park on level ground with the steering wheel centered and the wheels pointed straight.
• 🧱 Set the parking brake and place wheel chocks behind the rear wheels.
• 📝 Take a quick photo of how the outer tie rod sits in relation to the jam nut for reference.
• 📏 Plan on getting a professional alignment after the repair (counting turns gets it close, not perfect).

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🔨 Step-by-Step Instructions

Follow these steps in order:

Step 1: Loosen the wheel and raise the front

• Use a 21mm socket and breaker bar to loosen the front wheel lug nuts about 1 turn.
• Lift the front corner with a floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum) and set it on jack stands (rated 3-ton minimum).
• Remove the lug nuts with the 21mm socket and pull the wheel off.

Step 2: Mark the current setting (helps preserve toe)

• Use a wire brush to clean the exposed threads near the jam nut.
• Use a paint marker to draw a line across the jam nut and the tie rod end.
• Use a tape measure to note the distance from a fixed point (like the jam nut face) to the center of the tie rod end stud.
• These marks help you get close.

Step 3: Remove the cotter pin and the tie rod end nut

• Spray the tie rod end nut with penetrating oil.
• Use needle-nose pliers to straighten and remove the cotter pin from the stud.
• Use an 18mm socket to remove the tie rod end nut from the steering knuckle.

Step 4: Separate the tie rod end from the knuckle

• Install a tie rod end puller (specialty) and tighten it until the tapered stud pops free from the knuckle.
• A puller protects the rubber boot.

Step 5: Loosen the jam nut

• Hold the tie rod end with a 21mm open-end wrench (as needed) and loosen the jam nut using the 21mm open-end wrench.
• Do not spin the inner tie rod—just crack the jam nut loose.

Step 6: Remove the old outer tie rod end (count turns)

• Rotate the outer tie rod end off the inner tie rod while counting full turns (example: 17 turns).
• Write the number down using your phone notes so you don’t forget.

Step 7: Install the new outer tie rod end

• Apply a light coat of anti-seize compound to the inner tie rod threads.
• Thread the new outer tie rod end on the exact number of turns you counted during removal.
• Line up your paint marker marks as closely as possible.

Step 8: Attach the stud to the knuckle and torque fasteners

• Insert the stud into the steering knuckle by hand.
• Install the nut and tighten with an 18mm socket: Torque to 41 Nm (30 ft-lbs).
• If the cotter pin hole doesn’t line up, tighten the nut slightly until it does (never loosen to align).
• Install a new cotter pin using needle-nose pliers, then bend the ends with diagonal cutters.
• Tighten the jam nut with a 21mm open-end wrench: Torque to 63 Nm (46 ft-lbs).

Step 9: Reinstall the wheel

• Reinstall the wheel and hand-thread the lug nuts.
• Lower the Fusion off the jack stands (rated 3-ton minimum) using the floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum).
• Tighten the lug nuts in a star pattern with a 21mm socket and torque wrench: Torque to 135 Nm (100 ft-lbs).

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✅ After Repair

• 🧪 Start the Fusion and turn the steering wheel lock-to-lock while stopped to confirm nothing binds or rubs.
• 🛣️ Road test at low speed first; confirm the steering wheel is close to centered and there are no clunks.
• 📏 Get a 4-wheel alignment as soon as possible (tie rod changes affect toe and will eat tires fast).

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💰 DIY vs Shop Cost

Shop Cost: $220-$450 (parts + labor, alignment often extra)

DIY Cost: $35-$120 (parts only)

You Save: $185-$330 by doing it yourself!

Shop labor rates vary but typically run $100-$150/hour. This repair takes a shop approximately 1.0-1.5 hours.

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🎯 Ready to get started?

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