🔧 Focus - Outer Tie Rod End Replacement

The outer tie rod end connects your steering rack to the wheel knuckle. Replacing it restores tight steering and prevents uneven tire wear, but you’ll need a proper alignment afterward to avoid pulling and rapid tire wear.

Difficulty Level: Intermediate | Estimated Time: 1.0-2.0 hours (per side)

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⚠️ Safety & Precautions

• 🛑 Support your Focus on jack stands—never rely on a floor jack.
• 🧤 Wear safety glasses; dirt/rust can fall when separating the joint.
• 🔥 If you drove recently, let brakes/rotors cool before working nearby.
• 🧭 You must get a front alignment after replacement to protect tires.

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🔧 Required Tools

You'll need the following tools for this repair:

• Floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum)
• Jack stands (rated 3-ton minimum)
• Wheel chocks
• 19mm socket
• Breaker bar 1/2"
• Torque wrench 20-200 Nm
• 18mm socket
• Ratchet 3/8"
• 21mm open-end wrench
• Adjustable wrench 10"
• Tie rod end puller (specialty)
• Needle-nose pliers
• Paint marker
• Tape measure
• Penetrating oil
• Shop rags
• Nitrile gloves
• Safety glasses

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🔩 Required Parts

HowToo sells all the parts you need for this repair:

• Outer tie rod end - Qty: 1
• Outer tie rod end nut - Qty: 1
• Cotter pin - Qty: 1

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📋 Before You Begin

• 🧱 Park on level ground, center the steering wheel, and set the parking brake.
• 🛞 Loosen the front wheel lug nuts slightly before lifting (do not remove yet).
• 📏 Measure and record a reference: use a tape measure to note the distance from the tie rod end to a fixed point on the inner tie rod threads. Helps get close for alignment.
• 🖊️ Use a paint marker to mark the jam nut position on the inner tie rod threads.

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🔨 Step-by-Step Instructions

Follow these steps in order:

Step 1: Lift and remove the front wheel

• Chock the rear wheels using wheel chocks.
• Lift the front using a floor jack and support with jack stands.
• Remove the lug nuts using a 19mm socket and breaker bar, then remove the wheel.

Step 2: Loosen the tie rod jam nut

• Spray the threads and jam nut with penetrating oil.
• Hold the inner tie rod with a 21mm open-end wrench (or adjustable wrench 10" if needed).
• Crack the jam nut loose using the 21mm open-end wrench.
• Back the jam nut off 1-2 turns, but do not move it far. Keeps your toe close.

Step 3: Remove the tie rod end nut from the steering knuckle

• If your tie rod end uses a cotter pin, straighten and remove it using needle-nose pliers.
• Remove the tie rod end nut using an 18mm socket and ratchet 3/8".

Step 4: Separate the tie rod end from the knuckle

• Install a tie rod end puller (specialty) over the joint and tighten it until the stud pops free.
• Remove the tie rod end from the knuckle by hand once loose.
• Don’t hammer the stud threads.

Step 5: Remove the old tie rod end (count turns)

• Spin the tie rod end off the inner tie rod by hand, counting the exact number of turns.
• Write the number down using your phone notes.

Step 6: Install the new tie rod end (same turns)

• Thread the new tie rod end on the inner tie rod the same number of turns you counted.
• Seat the stud into the steering knuckle by hand.
• Install the new nut by hand first to avoid cross-threading.

Step 7: Torque the tie rod end nut (two common Ford nut styles)

• Using a torque wrench 20-200 Nm and 18mm socket, torque the nut as follows:
• If it uses a castle nut + cotter pin: Torque to 46 Nm (34 ft-lbs), then tighten further only as needed to align the cotter pin hole; install a new cotter pin using needle-nose pliers. Never loosen to align.
• If it uses a prevailing-torque lock nut (no cotter pin): Torque to 85 Nm (63 ft-lbs).

Step 8: Tighten the jam nut

• Hold the inner tie rod with a 21mm open-end wrench.
• Tighten the jam nut against the tie rod end using a 21mm open-end wrench.
• Torque to 70 Nm (52 ft-lbs).

Step 9: Reinstall the wheel

• Reinstall the wheel and hand-thread the lug nuts.
• Lower the vehicle off the jack stands using the floor jack.
• Torque the lug nuts in a star pattern using a torque wrench 20-200 Nm and 19mm socket: Torque to 135 Nm (100 ft-lbs).

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✅ After Repair

• 🧪 With the car on the ground, turn the steering wheel lock-to-lock and listen for clunks.
• 🛣️ Take a short, slow test drive and confirm the steering wheel is close to centered.
• 📐 Schedule a front wheel alignment as soon as possible (same day is best).
• 👀 Recheck the tie rod end nut and lug nut torque after your short drive.

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💰 DIY vs Shop Cost

Shop Cost: $250-$450 (parts + labor + typical alignment)

DIY Cost: $40-$120 (parts only)

You Save: $130-$410 by doing it yourself!

Shop labor rates vary but typically run $100-$150/hour. This repair takes a shop approximately 1.0-1.5 hours, plus alignment time.

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🎯 Ready to get started?

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