How to Replace the Outer Tie Rod End on a 2018 Dodge Durango (DIY Guide)
Step-by-step instructions with required tools, parts list, safety tips, and alignment notes
How to Replace the Outer Tie Rod End on a 2018 Dodge Durango (DIY Guide)
Step-by-step instructions with required tools, parts list, safety tips, and alignment notes


đź”§ Durango - Outer Tie Rod End Replacement
The outer tie rod end connects your steering rack to the front steering knuckle. Replacing it restores tight steering and fixes looseness/clunking, but it will change your toe alignment if you don’t mark and match the original position.
Difficulty Level: Intermediate | Estimated Time: 1.0-2.0 hours (one side)
⚠️ Safety & Precautions
- 🛑 Support your Durango on jack stands; never rely on a floor jack.
- 🧤 Wear eye protection; tie rod joints can pop loose suddenly.
- 🔥 Let brakes/rotors cool before working near them.
- đź”§ Do not turn the steering wheel with the tie rod disconnected; it can over-travel and stress components.
- 🔋 Battery disconnect is not required for this job.
đź”§ Required Tools
You'll need the following tools for this repair:
- Floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum)
- Jack stands (rated 3-ton minimum)
- Wheel chocks
- Safety glasses
- Mechanic gloves
- 22mm socket
- 1/2" drive breaker bar
- 1/2" drive torque wrench (20-200 ft-lbs range)
- Combination wrench set (15mm-24mm)
- Adjustable wrench (12")
- Tie rod end puller (specialty)
- Needle-nose pliers
- Side cutters
- Paint marker
- Tape measure
- Penetrating oil
- Wire brush
🔩 Required Parts
HowToo sells all the parts you need for this repair:
- Outer tie rod end - Qty: 1
- Cotter pin - Qty: 1
- Jam nut (if not included with tie rod end) - Qty: 1
- Anti-seize compound - Qty: 1
đź“‹ Before You Begin
- Park on level ground, center the steering wheel, and set the parking brake.
- Chock the rear wheels using wheel chocks.
- Loosen the front wheel lug nuts 1/2 turn using a 22mm socket and breaker bar.
- Spray penetrating oil on the tie rod end jam nut and the tie rod stud nut using penetrating oil.
- A tie-rod puller separates the tapered stud safely.
🔨 Step-by-Step Instructions
Follow these steps in order:
Step 1: Lift and remove the front wheel
- Lift the front corner with a floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum).
- Place a jack stand (rated 3-ton minimum) under the proper lift/support point and lower onto it.
- Remove lug nuts with a 22mm socket and remove the wheel.
Step 2: Mark the current tie rod position (protects alignment)
- Clean the threaded area with a wire brush.
- Use a paint marker to mark the position of the jam nut on the threads.
- Measure from a fixed point (example: end of inner tie rod threads) to the outer tie rod end and write it down using a tape measure.
- This helps keep toe close for driving to alignment.
Step 3: Loosen the jam nut
- Hold the inner tie rod with an adjustable wrench (12") (or correct-size wrench from your combination wrench set (15mm-24mm)).
- Loosen the jam nut using a wrench from the combination wrench set (15mm-24mm).
- Do not spin the outer tie rod off yet—just break the jam nut loose.
Step 4: Remove the tie rod end nut and free the stud from the knuckle
- If equipped with a cotter pin, straighten and remove it using needle-nose pliers and side cutters.
- Remove the tie rod end stud nut using a wrench from the combination wrench set (15mm-24mm).
- Install and tighten the tie rod end puller (specialty) until the tapered stud pops free from the steering knuckle.
- A sharp “pop” is normal when it releases.
Step 5: Remove the old outer tie rod end
- Rotate the outer tie rod end off the inner tie rod by hand.
- Count the exact number of turns it takes to remove it, and write it down.
Step 6: Install the new outer tie rod end
- Apply a light coat of anti-seize compound to the threads (avoid the stud/taper).
- Thread the new outer tie rod end on the inner tie rod using the same number of turns you counted.
- Snug the jam nut by hand against the new tie rod end.
Step 7: Attach the stud to the steering knuckle
- Insert the tie rod stud into the steering knuckle.
- Install the new nut and tighten using a wrench from the combination wrench set (15mm-24mm).
- Tighten to the factory specification using a 1/2" drive torque wrench (20-200 ft-lbs range): Torque to the Durango factory tie rod end stud nut spec.
- If a cotter pin is used, align the nut slots as needed by tightening (never loosen to align), then install a new cotter pin using needle-nose pliers.
Step 8: Tighten the jam nut
- Hold the inner tie rod with an adjustable wrench (12").
- Tighten the jam nut with a wrench from the combination wrench set (15mm-24mm).
- Tighten to the factory specification using a 1/2" drive torque wrench (20-200 ft-lbs range) if you have a crowfoot/adapter available: Torque to the Durango factory tie rod jam nut spec.
Step 9: Reinstall the wheel and lower
- Reinstall the wheel and hand-thread lug nuts.
- Lower the Durango off the jack stands (rated 3-ton minimum) using the floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum).
- Torque lug nuts in a star pattern using a 1/2" drive torque wrench (20-200 ft-lbs range): Torque to the Durango factory wheel lug nut spec.
âś… After Repair
- Start the Durango and turn the steering wheel lock-to-lock slowly to confirm smooth movement and no binding.
- Road test at low speed first; confirm the steering wheel is centered and there’s no clunk.
- Get a professional alignment as soon as possible; tie rod changes affect toe and tire wear.
- If the steering wheel is off-center or it pulls, avoid highway speeds until aligned.
đź’° DIY vs Shop Cost
Shop Cost: $200-$450 (parts + labor + alignment)
DIY Cost: $40-$150 (parts only)
You Save: $160-$300 by doing it yourself!
Shop labor rates vary but typically run $100-$150/hour. This repair takes a shop approximately 1.0-2.0 hours.
🎯 Ready to get started?
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