How to Replace the Outer Tie Rod End on a 2018 Chevrolet Silverado 1500
Step-by-step instructions with tools, parts, torque specs, and alignment tips
How to Replace the Outer Tie Rod End on a 2018 Chevrolet Silverado 1500
Step-by-step instructions with tools, parts, torque specs, and alignment tips
🔧 Tie Rod End - Replacement
Replacing the outer tie rod end restores steering tightness and helps correct looseness, clunks, and uneven tire wear. On your Silverado, this repair must be followed by a front-end alignment so the steering wheel stays straight and the tires wear correctly.
Assumption: Outer tie rod end replacement. Difficulty Level: Intermediate | Estimated Time: 1.5-2.5 hours
⚠️ Safety & Precautions
- Park on level ground and set the parking brake before lifting.
- Use jack stands, not just a floor jack. This is a safety-critical front suspension repair.
- Keep hands clear when separating the tie rod end from the steering knuckle.
- Do not drive long distances after replacement until the truck is aligned.
- No battery disconnect is required for this repair.
🔧 Required Tools
You'll need the following tools for this repair:
- Floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum)
- Jack stands (rated 3-ton minimum)
- Wheel chocks
- Safety glasses
- Mechanic gloves
- 21mm socket
- 24mm wrench
- 18mm wrench
- Torque wrench
- Ball joint separator (specialty)
- Paint marker
- Needle-nose pliers
- Hammer
🔩 Required Parts
HowToo sells all the parts you need for this repair:
- Outer tie rod end - Qty: 1
- Cotter pin - Qty: 1
📋 Before You Begin
- Park the truck on level ground and center the steering wheel.
- Loosen the front wheel lug nuts slightly before lifting.
- Count or mark the old tie rod end threads so the new one starts close to the same length.
- That helps the truck stay close enough to drive to alignment.
🔨 Step-by-Step Instructions
Follow these steps in order:
Step 1: Raise and secure the front of the truck
- Use the floor jack to lift the front of the truck.
- Place jack stands under the frame and lower the truck onto them.
- Remove the front wheel with the 21mm socket.
Step 2: Mark the tie rod length
- Use a paint marker to mark the position of the old tie rod end relative to the adjuster sleeve.
- Count the exposed threads if visible.
- Keep the new part close to the old length.
Step 3: Remove the outer tie rod from the steering knuckle
- Remove the cotter pin with needle-nose pliers.
- Use the 18mm wrench to remove the castle nut from the tie rod stud.
- Separate the tie rod end from the knuckle using the ball joint separator.
- If needed, tap the side of the knuckle lightly with a hammer to help release it.
Step 4: Remove the tie rod end from the adjuster sleeve
- Use the 24mm wrench to loosen the jam nut on the tie rod.
- Unscrew the outer tie rod end from the adjuster sleeve.
- Count the turns as you remove it so the new one can be installed close to the same length.
Step 5: Install the new tie rod end
- Thread the new outer tie rod end onto the adjuster sleeve the same number of turns you counted.
- Insert the stud into the steering knuckle.
- Install the new nut and tighten it with the 18mm wrench.
- Torque to 61 Nm (45 ft-lbs).
- Continue tightening only as needed to line up the castle nut with the hole for the cotter pin.
- Install the new cotter pin with needle-nose pliers.
Step 6: Tighten the jam nut
- Hold the tie rod end in place and tighten the jam nut with the 24mm wrench.
- Torque to 75 Nm (55 ft-lbs).
- Make sure the tie rod end does not rotate while tightening.
Step 7: Reinstall the wheel and lower the truck
- Reinstall the wheel and start the lug nuts by hand.
- Lower the truck with the floor jack.
- Torque the lug nuts with the 21mm socket in a star pattern to 190 Nm (140 ft-lbs).
✅ After Repair
- Start the truck and turn the steering wheel lock-to-lock to check for binding or noise.
- Inspect the tie rod end for correct seating and verify the cotter pin is installed.
- Get a front-end alignment as soon as possible.
- Drive slowly at first and confirm the steering wheel is centered.
💰 DIY vs Shop Cost
Shop Cost: $250-$450 (parts + labor)
DIY Cost: $40-$120 (parts only)
You Save: $130-$330 by doing it yourself!
Shop labor rates vary but typically run $100-$150/hour. This repair takes a shop approximately 1-2 hours.
🎯 Ready to get started?
HowToo makes it easy: same-day/2-day shipping on every part, plus all the tools and specialty tools you need! Check out the parts and tools sections below to add everything to your cart.


















