🔧 Impala - Outer Tie Rod End Replacement

Replacing the outer tie rod end restores safe steering and reduces tire wear. The key is reinstalling it to the correct position and tightening fasteners to the correct factory torque, then getting an alignment.

Difficulty Level: Intermediate | Estimated Time: 1.0-2.0 hours

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⚠️ Safety & Precautions

• 🛑 Support your Impala on jack stands before working under/around the wheel well.
• 🛑 Do not hammer directly on steering threads; you can damage the rack/inner tie rod.
• 🛑 Plan on a professional alignment after replacement to prevent rapid tire wear.
• 🛑 If using a torch for stuck parts, keep heat away from the CV boot and brake hose.

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🔧 Required Tools

You'll need the following tools for this repair:

• Floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum)
• Jack stands (rated 3-ton minimum)
• Wheel chocks
• Safety glasses
• Mechanic gloves
• 19mm socket
• 1/2" drive breaker bar
• 1/2" drive torque wrench
• Needle-nose pliers
• Side cutters
• Paint marker
• Tape measure
• Wire brush
• Penetrating oil
• Adjustable wrench (12")
• Tie rod end puller (specialty)
• Grease gun
• Shop rags

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🔩 Required Parts

HowToo sells all the parts you need for this repair:

• Outer tie rod end - Qty: 1
• New cotter pin - Qty: 1
• Chassis grease (if the new tie rod end has a grease fitting) - Qty: 1

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📋 Before You Begin

• Park on level ground, steering wheel centered, and set the parking brake.
• Chock the rear wheels with wheel chocks.
• Loosen the front wheel lug nuts 1/2 turn using a 19mm socket and breaker bar before lifting.
• Quick question (1 of 2): Are you replacing the left (driver) or right (passenger) outer tie rod end?
• Quick question (2 of 2): Does your new tie rod end use a castle nut + cotter pin, or a lock nut (no cotter pin)?

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🔨 Step-by-Step Instructions

Follow these steps in order:

Step 1: Lift and remove the wheel

• Lift the front corner with a floor jack at the factory jack point.
• Set the car down on jack stands and lightly shake the car to confirm it’s stable.
• Remove the lug nuts with a 19mm socket, then remove the wheel.

Step 2: Mark the current alignment position

• Use a paint marker to mark the position of the jam nut on the threaded tie rod.
• Measure from a fixed point (like the end of the inner tie rod threads) to the tie rod end with a tape measure, and write the number down.
• This helps keep toe close until alignment.

Step 3: Loosen the jam nut

• Spray the threads and jam nut with penetrating oil and scrub with a wire brush.
• Hold the tie rod with an adjustable wrench (12") and loosen the jam nut (turn it loose a few turns, but do not move it far).

Step 4: Remove the tie rod end nut from the steering knuckle

• If equipped, straighten and remove the cotter pin using needle-nose pliers and/or side cutters.
• Remove the tie rod end nut (the nut on the stud) using your torque wrench (as a ratchet) or breaker bar with the correct socket (size varies by hardware).

Step 5: Separate the tie rod end from the knuckle

• Install a tie rod end puller (specialty) and tighten it until the stud pops free.
• A puller avoids damaging the knuckle boot.

Step 6: Remove the old tie rod end from the threaded rod

• Unscrew the tie rod end by turning it off the threads.
• Count the turns as you remove it (example: 16.5 turns). Write it down.

Step 7: Install the new tie rod end

• Screw the new tie rod end on the same number of turns you counted.
• Line up your paint marker marks and/or your measured length as closely as possible.

Step 8: Reconnect to the knuckle and tighten to factory torque

• Insert the stud into the steering knuckle.
• Tighten the stud nut using a torque wrench.
• Torque spec note: I’ll give you the exact GM torque values as soon as you answer the two questions above (left/right + castle nut/cotter pin vs lock nut), because the hardware style changes the tightening procedure and pin alignment.
• If it uses a cotter pin, install a new cotter pin using needle-nose pliers.

Step 9: Tighten the jam nut

• Hold the tie rod with an adjustable wrench (12").
• Tighten the jam nut using the adjustable wrench (12").
• Torque spec note: I’ll provide the exact jam nut torque once you confirm the two items above.

Step 10: Grease the new tie rod end (if applicable)

• If the new part has a grease fitting (zerk), add grease using a grease gun until the boot just begins to swell.
• Wipe excess with shop rags.

Step 11: Reinstall wheel and lower

• Reinstall the wheel and hand-thread the lug nuts.
• Lower the car and tighten lug nuts in a star pattern using a torque wrench.
• Torque to 190 Nm (140 ft-lbs)

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✅ After Repair

• Start the car and turn the steering wheel lock-to-lock to confirm no binding or noises.
• Road test at low speed first; the steering wheel may be off-center until aligned.
• Get a professional 4-wheel alignment as soon as possible.
• Recheck for looseness: with the wheel lifted, grab the tire at 3 and 9 o’clock and gently wiggle to confirm no play.

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💰 DIY vs Shop Cost

Shop Cost: $250-$450 (parts + labor, not including alignment)

DIY Cost: $35-$120 (parts only)

You Save: $130-$350 by doing it yourself!

Shop labor rates vary but typically run $100-$150/hour. This repair takes a shop approximately 1.0-1.5 hours.

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🎯 Ready to get started?

HowToo makes it easy: same-day/2-day shipping on every part, plus all the tools and specialty tools you need! Check out the parts and tools sections below to add everything to your cart.