🔧 Tie Rod End - Replacement

The outer tie rod end connects the steering rack to the front wheel knuckle. When it wears out, you can get loose steering, tire wear, or clunking over bumps. Replacing it restores steering feel, but the wheel alignment must be checked afterward.

Difficulty Level: Intermediate | Estimated Time: 1.5-2.5 hours

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⚠️ Safety & Precautions

• Work on level ground and chock the rear wheels.
• Raise the front of the car and support it securely with jack stands before removing a wheel.
• Keep hands clear of the steering knuckle when separating the tie rod end.
• Do not drive the car until the new tie rod end is installed and torqued.
• An alignment is required after this repair.

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🔧 Required Tools

You'll need the following tools for this repair:

• Floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum)
• Jack stands
• Wheel chocks
• Lug wrench or 21mm socket
• 10mm socket
• 14mm socket
• 17mm wrench
• 19mm wrench
• Torque wrench
• Ball joint separator (specialty)
• Needle-nose pliers
• Paint marker
• Safety glasses
• Gloves

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🔩 Required Parts

HowToo sells all the parts you need for this repair:

• Outer tie rod end - Qty: 1
• Outer tie rod end lock nut - Qty: 1
• Cotter pin - Qty: 1
• Front wheel alignment - Qty: 1

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📋 Before You Begin

• Park on level ground, set the parking brake, and chock the rear wheels.
• Loosen the front lug nuts slightly before lifting the car.
• Count the exposed threads or measure the old tie rod end position before removal so the new one starts close to the same length.
• Keep the steering wheel centered.

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🔨 Step-by-Step Instructions

Follow these steps in order:

Step 1: Lift and remove the wheel

• Use a floor jack to raise the front of the car.
• Place jack stands under the proper support points and lower the car onto them.
• Use a 21mm socket or lug wrench to remove the wheel.

Step 2: Mark the old tie rod position

• Use a paint marker to mark the relationship between the tie rod end and the jam nut.
• Count the visible threads or note the exact position.
• This helps keep the toe close enough to drive to alignment.

Step 3: Remove the cotter pin and castle nut

• Use needle-nose pliers to straighten and remove the cotter pin from the tie rod end stud.
• Use a 19mm wrench to remove the castle nut from the tie rod end stud.
• If the stud spins, use a 14mm socket on the stud end if equipped, or apply upward pressure while loosening the nut.

Step 4: Separate the tie rod end from the knuckle

• Use a ball joint separator (specialty) to break the tapered stud loose from the steering knuckle.
• Do not hammer on the steering knuckle.
• Once it pops free, lift the tie rod end out of the knuckle.

Step 5: Remove the old tie rod end

• Use a 17mm wrench and 19mm wrench to loosen the jam nut.
• Spin the old tie rod end off the inner tie rod, counting the turns as you go.
• Write down the turn count so the new part can go back close to the same length.

Step 6: Install the new tie rod end

• Thread the new tie rod end onto the inner tie rod the same number of turns you counted during removal.
• Insert the stud into the steering knuckle.
• Install the new castle nut and snug it with a 19mm wrench.
• Install a new cotter pin after final torque.

Step 7: Tighten the fasteners

• Use a torque wrench and 19mm wrench to tighten the tie rod end nut to 49 Nm (36 ft-lbs).
• Use a 17mm wrench and 19mm wrench to tighten the jam nut to 74 Nm (55 ft-lbs).
• Install the cotter pin through the castle nut and bend the ends over with needle-nose pliers.

Step 8: Reinstall the wheel

• Put the wheel back on and hand-start the lug nuts.
• Lower the car and use a torque wrench with a 21mm socket to tighten the lug nuts to 103 Nm (76 ft-lbs).

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✅ After Repair

• Turn the steering wheel lock-to-lock and confirm there are no noises or binding.
• Test drive slowly first and check that the steering wheel is close to centered.
• Schedule a professional front-end alignment as soon as possible.
• Check the tie rod end and jam nut again after the test drive.

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💰 DIY vs Shop Cost

Shop Cost: $180-$350 (parts + labor + alignment)

DIY Cost: $35-$90 (parts only, plus alignment)

You Save: $145-$260 by doing it yourself!

Shop labor rates vary but typically run $100-$150/hour. This repair takes a shop approximately 1-2 hours.

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🎯 Ready to get started?

HowToo makes it easy: same-day/2-day shipping on every part, plus all the tools and specialty tools you need! Check out the parts and tools sections below to add everything to your cart.