How to Replace the Outer Tie Rod End on a 2018-2023 Kia Stinger
Step-by-step instructions with tools, parts, safety tips, and alignment guidance
How to Replace the Outer Tie Rod End on a 2018-2023 Kia Stinger
Step-by-step instructions with tools, parts, safety tips, and alignment guidance for 2018, 2019, 2020, 2021, 2022, 2023
🔧 Tie Rod End - Replacement
The outer tie rod end connects the steering rack to the steering knuckle and is a common wear item. Replacing it restores steering feel and helps fix looseness, clunks, or uneven tire wear.
Difficulty Level: Intermediate | Estimated Time: 1-2 hours
⚠️ Safety & Precautions
- Work on a flat, level surface and keep the parking brake engaged.
- Use jack stands; never rely on a floor jack alone.
- Keep hands clear of the steering and suspension when separating the tie rod end.
- Have the vehicle aligned after the repair. Even a small toe change can wear tires fast.
- If the vehicle has an electronic parking brake, make sure it is fully released before lifting.
🔧 Required Tools
You'll need the following tools for this repair:
- Floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum)
- Jack stands (rated for vehicle weight)
- Wheel chocks
- Lug wrench
- Metric socket set
- Metric combination wrench set
- Torque wrench
- Needle nose pliers
- Side cutters
- Pry bar
- Pickle fork (specialty)
- Hammer
- Paint marker
- Safety glasses
- Nitrile gloves
🔩 Required Parts
HowToo sells all the parts you need for this repair:
- Outer tie rod end - Qty: 1
- Outer tie rod end jam nut - Qty: 1
- Outer tie rod end cotter pin - Qty: 1
📋 Before You Begin
- Park on level ground and center the steering wheel.
- Loosen the front wheel lug nuts before lifting the vehicle.
- Mark the current tie rod end position so the new part starts close to the same toe setting.
- Get an alignment soon after repair.
🔨 Step-by-Step Instructions
Follow these steps in order:
Step 1: Raise and secure the front corner
- Use a floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum) to lift the front of the vehicle at the proper jacking point.
- Support it with jack stands (rated for vehicle weight).
- Remove the wheel with a lug wrench.
Step 2: Mark the tie rod position
- Use a paint marker to mark the tie rod threads and jam nut position.
- This helps keep the alignment close enough to drive safely to the shop.
Step 3: Remove the cotter pin and castle nut
- Use needle nose pliers or side cutters to remove the cotter pin from the tie rod stud.
- Use the correct metric socket or metric wrench to remove the castle nut.
- Torque on reassembly: Tighten to factory specification.
Step 4: Separate the tie rod end from the knuckle
- Use a pickle fork (specialty) or a ball joint separator tool (specialty) to break the taper loose.
- If needed, tap the knuckle lightly with a hammer while applying upward pressure.
- Do not hit the stud threads.
Step 5: Loosen the jam nut
- Use a metric combination wrench to loosen the jam nut on the inner tie rod.
- Count the turns as you remove the old tie rod end.
Step 6: Remove the old tie rod end
- Spin the tie rod end off by hand.
- If it is tight, use a metric combination wrench on the flats of the tie rod end.
- Match the new part to the same thread count or turn count for a close starting point.
Step 7: Install the new tie rod end
- Screw the new outer tie rod end onto the inner tie rod the same number of turns.
- Thread the jam nut snug but do not fully torque it yet.
- Insert the stud into the steering knuckle.
Step 8: Tighten fasteners
- Use a metric socket or metric wrench to tighten the castle nut to factory specification.
- Align the castle nut slot with the hole in the stud, then install a new cotter pin.
- Use a torque wrench to tighten the jam nut to factory specification.
Step 9: Reinstall the wheel and lower the vehicle
- Install the wheel and snug the lug nuts with a lug wrench.
- Lower the vehicle with the floor jack and remove the jack stands.
- Torque the lug nuts with a torque wrench to factory specification.
✅ After Repair
- Start the vehicle and turn the steering wheel lock-to-lock while parked.
- Check that the steering wheel is centered.
- Listen for clunks or binding during a slow test drive.
- Schedule a professional front-end alignment as soon as possible.
💰 DIY vs Shop Cost
Shop Cost: $180-$350 (parts + labor)
DIY Cost: $35-$90 (parts only)
You Save: $145-$260 by doing it yourself!
Shop labor rates vary but typically run $100-$150/hour. This repair takes a shop approximately 1-2 hours.
🎯 Ready to get started?
HowToo makes it easy: same-day/2-day shipping on every part, plus all the tools and specialty tools you need! Check out the parts and tools sections below to add everything to your cart.


















