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2018 Kia Stinger
2018 - 2023 Kia Stinger
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  • Guides
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  • Kia Stinger
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  • 2018
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  • How to Replace the Outer Tie Rod End on a 2018-2023 Kia Stinger
How to Replace an Outer Tie Rod End

How to Replace an Outer Tie Rod End

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Tools & Fluids

3 Ton
3 Ton
Floor Jack
3 Ton
3 Ton
Jack Stands
Wheel Chocks
Wheel Chocks
1/2
1/2
Torque Wrench
Needle Nose
Needle Nose
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How to Replace the Outer Tie Rod End on a 2018-2023 Kia Stinger

Step-by-step instructions with tools, parts, safety tips, and alignment guidance

How to Replace the Outer Tie Rod End on a 2018-2023 Kia Stinger

Step-by-step instructions with tools, parts, safety tips, and alignment guidance for 2018, 2019, 2020, 2021, 2022, 2023

Orion
Orion

🔧 Tie Rod End - Replacement

The outer tie rod end connects the steering rack to the steering knuckle and is a common wear item. Replacing it restores steering feel and helps fix looseness, clunks, or uneven tire wear.

Difficulty Level: Intermediate | Estimated Time: 1-2 hours


⚠️ Safety & Precautions

  • Work on a flat, level surface and keep the parking brake engaged.
  • Use jack stands; never rely on a floor jack alone.
  • Keep hands clear of the steering and suspension when separating the tie rod end.
  • Have the vehicle aligned after the repair. Even a small toe change can wear tires fast.
  • If the vehicle has an electronic parking brake, make sure it is fully released before lifting.

🔧 Required Tools

You'll need the following tools for this repair:

  • Floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum)
  • Jack stands (rated for vehicle weight)
  • Wheel chocks
  • Lug wrench
  • Metric socket set
  • Metric combination wrench set
  • Torque wrench
  • Needle nose pliers
  • Side cutters
  • Pry bar
  • Pickle fork (specialty)
  • Hammer
  • Paint marker
  • Safety glasses
  • Nitrile gloves

🔩 Required Parts

HowToo sells all the parts you need for this repair:

  • Outer tie rod end - Qty: 1
  • Outer tie rod end jam nut - Qty: 1
  • Outer tie rod end cotter pin - Qty: 1

📋 Before You Begin

  • Park on level ground and center the steering wheel.
  • Loosen the front wheel lug nuts before lifting the vehicle.
  • Mark the current tie rod end position so the new part starts close to the same toe setting.
  • Get an alignment soon after repair.

🔨 Step-by-Step Instructions

Follow these steps in order:

Step 1: Raise and secure the front corner

  • Use a floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum) to lift the front of the vehicle at the proper jacking point.
  • Support it with jack stands (rated for vehicle weight).
  • Remove the wheel with a lug wrench.

Step 2: Mark the tie rod position

  • Use a paint marker to mark the tie rod threads and jam nut position.
  • This helps keep the alignment close enough to drive safely to the shop.

Step 3: Remove the cotter pin and castle nut

  • Use needle nose pliers or side cutters to remove the cotter pin from the tie rod stud.
  • Use the correct metric socket or metric wrench to remove the castle nut.
  • Torque on reassembly: Tighten to factory specification.

Step 4: Separate the tie rod end from the knuckle

  • Use a pickle fork (specialty) or a ball joint separator tool (specialty) to break the taper loose.
  • If needed, tap the knuckle lightly with a hammer while applying upward pressure.
  • Do not hit the stud threads.

Step 5: Loosen the jam nut

  • Use a metric combination wrench to loosen the jam nut on the inner tie rod.
  • Count the turns as you remove the old tie rod end.

Step 6: Remove the old tie rod end

  • Spin the tie rod end off by hand.
  • If it is tight, use a metric combination wrench on the flats of the tie rod end.
  • Match the new part to the same thread count or turn count for a close starting point.

Step 7: Install the new tie rod end

  • Screw the new outer tie rod end onto the inner tie rod the same number of turns.
  • Thread the jam nut snug but do not fully torque it yet.
  • Insert the stud into the steering knuckle.

Step 8: Tighten fasteners

  • Use a metric socket or metric wrench to tighten the castle nut to factory specification.
  • Align the castle nut slot with the hole in the stud, then install a new cotter pin.
  • Use a torque wrench to tighten the jam nut to factory specification.

Step 9: Reinstall the wheel and lower the vehicle

  • Install the wheel and snug the lug nuts with a lug wrench.
  • Lower the vehicle with the floor jack and remove the jack stands.
  • Torque the lug nuts with a torque wrench to factory specification.

✅ After Repair

  • Start the vehicle and turn the steering wheel lock-to-lock while parked.
  • Check that the steering wheel is centered.
  • Listen for clunks or binding during a slow test drive.
  • Schedule a professional front-end alignment as soon as possible.

💰 DIY vs Shop Cost

Shop Cost: $180-$350 (parts + labor)

DIY Cost: $35-$90 (parts only)

You Save: $145-$260 by doing it yourself!

Shop labor rates vary but typically run $100-$150/hour. This repair takes a shop approximately 1-2 hours.


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