🔧 Tie Rod End - Replacement

This job replaces the outer tie rod end on your CR-V’s front steering linkage. A worn tie rod end can cause clunks, loose steering, or uneven tire wear, and it should be fixed before alignment issues get worse.

Difficulty Level: Intermediate | Estimated Time: 1.5-2.5 hours

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⚠️ Safety & Precautions

• Support the vehicle securely with jack stands before working under it.
• Keep hands clear of the steering knuckle and suspension parts while loosening the tie rod end.
• After replacement, a wheel alignment is required.
• Do not drive long distances until the alignment is checked.

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🔧 Required Tools

You'll need the following tools for this repair:

• Floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum)
• Jack stands
• Wheel chocks
• 19mm socket
• 17mm socket
• 14mm wrench
• 21mm wrench
• Torque wrench
• Pliers
• Tie rod end puller (specialty)
• Hammer
• Paint marker
• Safety glasses
• Gloves

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🔩 Required Parts

HowToo sells all the parts you need for this repair:

• Outer tie rod end - Qty: 1
• Outer tie rod end jam nut - Qty: 1
• Cotter pin - Qty: 1
• Wheel alignment - Qty: 1

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📋 Before You Begin

• Park on level ground and set the parking brake.
• Chock the rear wheels.
• Loosen the front lug nuts slightly before lifting the vehicle.
• Raise the front and support it with jack stands.
• Turn the steering wheel so you have better access to the side you are replacing.
• Marking the old length helps preserve alignment.

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🔨 Step-by-Step Instructions

Follow these steps in order:

Step 1: Remove the wheel

• Use a 19mm socket and ratchet to remove the wheel nuts.
• Remove the wheel and set it aside safely.

Step 2: Mark the tie rod length

• Use a paint marker to mark the position of the tie rod end on the threaded rod.
• This gives you a starting point for toe alignment.

Step 3: Loosen the jam nut

• Use a 21mm wrench to loosen the jam nut that locks the tie rod end in place.
• Do not remove the nut yet.

Step 4: Remove the cotter pin and castle nut

• Use pliers to straighten and remove the cotter pin from the tie rod stud.
• Use a 17mm socket to remove the castle nut.
• Keep the nut if the new part does not include one.

Step 5: Separate the tie rod end from the knuckle

• Use a tie rod end puller (specialty) to pop the stud free from the steering knuckle.
• If needed, tap the side of the knuckle with a hammer to help release it.
• Do not strike the stud threads directly.

Step 6: Remove the old tie rod end

• Count the turns as you unscrew the old tie rod end from the inner tie rod.
• Remove it completely and compare the old part to the new one.

Step 7: Install the new tie rod end

• Screw the new tie rod end onto the inner rod the same number of turns you counted.
• Make sure the boot is not twisted.
• Tighten the jam nut with a 21mm wrench.
• Torque the jam nut to factory specification.

Step 8: Attach the stud to the knuckle

• Insert the tie rod stud into the steering knuckle.
• Use a 17mm socket to install and tighten the castle nut.
• Torque the castle nut to factory specification.
• Install a new cotter pin with pliers.

Step 9: Reinstall the wheel

• Put the wheel back on and hand-start the lug nuts.
• Lower the vehicle and tighten the lug nuts with a torque wrench to factory specification.

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✅ After Repair

• Drive slowly and confirm the steering wheel is centered.
• Listen for any clunks or looseness over bumps.
• Schedule a professional wheel alignment as soon as possible.
• If the steering wheel is off-center, do not keep adjusting it by eye.

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💰 DIY vs Shop Cost

Shop Cost: $180-$350 per side (parts + labor + alignment)

DIY Cost: $40-$120 per side (parts only, plus alignment)

You Save: $100-$230 by doing it yourself!

Shop labor rates vary but typically run $100-$150/hour. This repair takes a shop approximately 1-2 hours.

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🎯 Ready to get started?

HowToo makes it easy: same-day/2-day shipping on every part, plus all the tools and specialty tools you need! Check out the parts and tools sections below to add everything to your cart.