🔧 86 - Outer Tie Rod End Replacement

The outer tie rod end connects your steering rack to the front knuckle and lets the wheel turn left/right. If it’s loose or torn, it can cause clunks, wandering, and uneven tire wear—replacement is straightforward, but you’ll need an alignment afterward.

Difficulty Level: Intermediate | Estimated Time: 1.0-2.0 hours (per side)

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⚠️ Safety & Precautions

• 🛑 Support the car with jack stands; never rely on a floor jack.
• 🛑 Keep hands clear when separating the joint; it can “pop” free suddenly.
• 🛑 Do not turn the steering wheel while the tie rod is disconnected.
• 🛑 Plan on a professional alignment after replacement to prevent tire wear.

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🔧 Required Tools

You'll need the following tools for this repair:

• Floor jack (rated 2-ton minimum)
• Jack stands (rated 2-ton minimum)
• Wheel chocks
• Safety glasses
• Mechanic gloves
• 19mm socket
• 1/2" drive breaker bar
• 1/2" drive torque wrench (20-150 ft-lbs)
• 17mm socket
• 19mm wrench
• Needle-nose pliers
• Pick tool
• Tie rod end puller (specialty)
• Penetrating oil
• Paint marker
• Tape measure

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🔩 Required Parts

HowToo sells all the parts you need for this repair:

• Outer tie rod end - Qty: 1
• Cotter pin - Qty: 1
• Jam nut - Qty: 1

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📋 Before You Begin

• 🧱 Park on level ground, set the parking brake, and chock the rear wheels.
• 🧭 Center the steering wheel and keep it centered during the job.
• 🧼 Spray penetrating oil on the tie rod end jam nut threads and the castle nut area; let it soak 5–10 minutes.

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🔨 Step-by-Step Instructions

Follow these steps in order:

Step 1: Confirm which side you’re replacing

• Are we doing the front left or front right tie rod end on your 86?

Step 2: Loosen the wheel nuts

• Use a 19mm socket and breaker bar to loosen the front wheel nuts 1/2 turn (do not remove yet).

Step 3: Lift and support the front corner

• Use a floor jack to lift the front corner at the proper front jack point.
• Set the car down onto jack stands and give it a gentle shake to confirm it’s stable.
• Remove the wheel nuts with the 19mm socket, then remove the wheel.

Step 4: Mark your baseline alignment position

• Use a paint marker to mark the position of the jam nut on the tie rod threads.
• Use a tape measure to measure from a repeatable point on the tie rod end to a fixed point (write it down). This helps you drive to the alignment shop.

Step 5: Loosen the jam nut

• Hold the tie rod end and use a 19mm wrench to break the jam nut loose (turn it counterclockwise).
• Do not spin it far—just crack it loose for now.

Step 6: Remove the cotter pin from the castle nut

• Straighten the cotter pin legs using needle-nose pliers and a pick tool, then pull it out.
• If it won’t budge, replace it anyway (you should not reuse cotter pins).

Step 7: Remove the castle nut

• Use a 17mm socket to remove the castle nut from the tie rod end stud.

Step 8: Separate the tie rod end from the knuckle

• Install a tie rod end puller (specialty) over the joint and tighten it until the stud pops free.
• A tie rod end puller is a screw-type tool that pushes the stud out without hammering the knuckle.

Step 9: Remove the old tie rod end (count the turns)

• Spin the tie rod end off by hand and count the exact number of turns it takes to come off.
• Write the number down (example: 16.5 turns). This keeps toe close to original.

Step 10: Install the new tie rod end

• Thread the new tie rod end on by hand the same number of turns you counted.
• Line up the stud with the knuckle and push it into place.

Step 11: Torque the castle nut and install a new cotter pin

• Use a 17mm socket and torque wrench to tighten the castle nut: Torque to 35 Nm (26 ft-lbs).
• If the cotter pin hole is not aligned after torquing, tighten the nut slightly more until it lines up (do not loosen to align).
• Install a new cotter pin using needle-nose pliers, then bend the legs over securely.

Step 12: Tighten the jam nut

• Hold the tie rod end position and tighten the jam nut using a 19mm wrench: Torque to 49 Nm (36 ft-lbs).

Step 13: Reinstall the wheel

• Reinstall the wheel and hand-thread the wheel nuts.
• Lower the car off the jack stands using the floor jack.
• Use a 19mm socket and torque wrench to tighten the wheel nuts in a star pattern: Torque to 120 Nm (89 ft-lbs).

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✅ After Repair

• 🧪 Start the car and turn the steering wheel lock-to-lock slowly to confirm smooth movement and no binding.
• 🔎 Road test at low speed first; listen for clunks and verify the steering wheel is close to centered.
• 🧭 Get a 4-wheel alignment as soon as possible (same day if you can).

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💰 DIY vs Shop Cost

Shop Cost: $200-$450 (parts + labor + alignment)

DIY Cost: $40-$120 (parts only, per side)

You Save: $160-$330 by doing it yourself!

Shop labor rates vary but typically run $100-$150/hour. This repair takes a shop approximately 1.0-1.5 hours.

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🎯 Ready to get started?

HowToo makes it easy: same-day/2-day shipping on every part, plus all the tools and specialty tools you need! Check out the parts and tools sections below to add everything to your cart.