How to Replace the Outer Tie Rod End on a 2016 Toyota Land Cruiser
Step-by-step instructions with tools, parts, torque specs, safety tips, and alignment guidance
How to Replace the Outer Tie Rod End on a 2016 Toyota Land Cruiser
Step-by-step instructions with tools, parts, torque specs, safety tips, and alignment guidance


🔧 Tie Rod End - Replacement
Your Land Cruiser uses an outer tie rod end at each front wheel to connect the steering rack to the steering knuckle. Replacing a worn tie rod end restores steering feel and helps prevent tire wear and wandering. You should get a wheel alignment right after this repair.
Difficulty Level: Intermediate | Estimated Time: 1.5-2.5 hours
⚠️ Safety & Precautions
- Work on level ground with the parking brake set and the transmission in Park.
- Use jack stands; never rely on a jack alone.
- Replace one side at a time to keep alignment close enough to drive to the shop.
- Mark the old tie rod end position before removal to help preserve toe setting.
- Get a professional wheel alignment after the repair.
- No battery disconnect is required for this repair.
🔧 Required Tools
You'll need the following tools for this repair:
- Floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum)
- Jack stands
- Wheel chocks
- Safety glasses
- Mechanic gloves
- 21mm socket
- 19mm socket
- 17mm wrench
- Torque wrench
- Needle-nose pliers
- Pry bar
- Ball joint separator tool (specialty)
- Paint marker
🔩 Required Parts
HowToo sells all the parts you need for this repair:
- Outer tie rod end - Qty: 1
- Outer tie rod end lock nut - Qty: 1
- Cotter pin - Qty: 1
📋 Before You Begin
- Park on a flat surface and straighten the steering wheel.
- Loosen the front wheel lug nuts slightly before lifting.
- Keep the steering wheel centered.
🔨 Step-by-Step Instructions
Follow these steps in order:
Step 1: Raise the vehicle and remove the wheel
- Use a floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum) to lift the front corner.
- Support the vehicle with jack stands.
- Remove the lug nuts with a 21mm socket and take off the wheel.
Step 2: Mark the current tie rod position
- Use a paint marker to mark the tie rod end location on the threaded shaft.
- Count and note the number of exposed threads if visible.
- Better marks mean easier alignment.
Step 3: Remove the cotter pin and castle nut
- Use needle-nose pliers to remove the cotter pin from the tie rod end stud.
- Remove the castle nut with a 19mm socket.
- If the stud spins, hold it with a 17mm wrench on the stud flats if equipped.
Step 4: Separate the tie rod end from the steering knuckle
- Use a ball joint separator tool (specialty) to break the taper loose.
- If needed, apply controlled pressure with a pry bar while using the separator tool.
- Do not hammer the stud directly.
Step 5: Remove the old tie rod end
- Loosen and unthread the tie rod end from the inner rod by hand.
- Count the turns as you remove it, then write that number down.
- This helps keep the toe setting close enough to drive safely.
Step 6: Install the new tie rod end
- Thread the new outer tie rod end onto the inner rod the same number of turns you counted.
- Align the stud with the steering knuckle and seat it fully.
- Install the new lock nut and tighten with a 19mm socket.
- Torque to 67 Nm (49 ft-lbs).
Step 7: Secure the stud with a cotter pin
- Use a torque wrench to finish tightening the nut only until the cotter pin hole lines up.
- Insert the new cotter pin with needle-nose pliers and bend the ends over.
- Torque to 67 Nm (49 ft-lbs) if needed to reach alignment with the pin hole.
Step 8: Reinstall the wheel
- Put the wheel back on and hand-start the lug nuts.
- Tighten with a 21mm socket in a star pattern.
- Torque to 131 Nm (97 ft-lbs).
Step 9: Repeat on the other side if needed
- If the opposite tie rod end is worn, replace it too.
- Keep the steering wheel centered during the process.
✅ After Repair
- Lower the vehicle and test the steering at low speed.
- Listen for clunks and feel for play in the steering wheel.
- Schedule a professional front-end alignment right away.
- Check that the steering wheel is centered after the alignment.
💰 DIY vs Shop Cost
Shop Cost: $250-$450 (parts + labor)
DIY Cost: $40-$120 (parts only)
You Save: $210-$330 by doing it yourself!
Shop labor rates vary but typically run $100-$150/hour. This repair takes a shop approximately 1.5-2.5 hours.
🎯 Ready to get started?
HowToo makes it easy: same-day/2-day shipping on every part, plus all the tools and specialty tools you need! Check out the parts and tools sections below to add everything to your cart.

















