🔧 Legacy - Outer Tie Rod End Replacement

The outer tie rod end connects your steering rack to the steering knuckle, letting the wheels turn while staying tight and controlled. Replacing it fixes looseness, clunks, and uneven tire wear—but you’ll need an alignment afterward because toe angle can change.

Difficulty Level: Intermediate | Estimated Time: 1.0–2.0 hours (one side)

Assumption: using typical Legacy 2.5i fastener sizes; torque values can vary by production—use the specs below as best-effort and verify if you have a service manual.

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⚠️ Safety & Precautions

• 🛑 Support the car with jack stands; never rely on a floor jack alone.
• 🛑 Keep the steering wheel centered and do not let the steering rack “hang” by the inner joint.
• 🛑 Wear safety glasses; rust and cotter pins can snap.
• 🛑 If you use a “pickle fork” separator, it can damage the rubber boot (okay if you’re replacing the tie rod end).

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🔧 Required Tools

You'll need the following tools for this repair:

• Floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum)
• Jack stands (rated 3-ton minimum)
• Wheel chocks
• 19mm socket
• Breaker bar (1/2")
• Torque wrench (20–150 ft-lbs)
• 17mm wrench
• 19mm wrench
• Needle-nose pliers
• Side cutters
• Wire brush
• Penetrating oil
• Paint marker
• Tape measure
• Tie rod end puller (specialty)
• Pickle fork (specialty)
• Hammer (16 oz)
• Safety glasses
• Mechanic gloves

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🔩 Required Parts

HowToo sells all the parts you need for this repair:

• Outer tie rod end - Qty: 1
• Cotter pin (tie rod end) - Qty: 1
• Jam nut (tie rod lock nut) - Qty: 1 (optional, if damaged)
• Anti-seize compound - Qty: 1 (small pack)

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📋 Before You Begin

• Park on level ground, put the shifter in P, and set the parking brake.
• Place wheel chocks behind the rear wheels.
• Break the front wheel lug nuts loose 1/2 turn before lifting the car.
• Spray penetrating oil on the tie rod end lock nut and the castle nut threads for a few minutes.

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🔨 Step-by-Step Instructions

Follow these steps in order:

Step 1: Lift and remove the wheel

• Use a 19mm socket and breaker bar to loosen lug nuts (if not already).
• Use a floor jack to lift the front corner at the approved jacking point.
• Set the car securely on jack stands.
• Remove the lug nuts with a 19mm socket and remove the wheel.

Step 2: Mark your alignment “baseline”

• Use a wire brush to clean the exposed threads at the tie rod end/jam nut area.
• Use a paint marker to mark a line across the jam nut and the inner tie rod threads.
• Use a tape measure to measure from a fixed point on the tie rod end (example: center of stud) to the jam nut, and write it down.
• This helps you drive to alignment safely.

Step 3: Loosen the jam nut

• The jam nut is the “lock nut” that holds the alignment setting.
• Hold the tie rod end body with a 19mm wrench (or the size that fits your part’s flats).
• Use a 19mm wrench to loosen the jam nut by turning it counterclockwise (toward the tie rod end).
• Do not spin it far yet—just “break it loose.”

Step 4: Remove the cotter pin and castle nut

• Straighten and pull the cotter pin using needle-nose pliers. If it’s stuck, cut it with side cutters.
• Remove the tie rod end castle nut using a 17mm wrench (some vehicles may use a different size).

Step 5: Separate the tie rod end from the steering knuckle

• Install a tie rod end puller (specialty) and tighten it until the stud “pops” free.
• If you don’t have a puller, use a pickle fork (specialty) and hammer (16 oz) to separate it. This may tear the boot.
• Don’t hammer directly on the stud threads.

Step 6: Remove the old tie rod end (count turns)

• Spin the tie rod end off the inner tie rod by hand, counting each full turn.
• Write the number down (example: 17.5 turns). This keeps your toe close enough to drive.

Step 7: Install the new tie rod end

• Apply a light coat of anti-seize compound to the inner tie rod threads (avoid the taper/stud area).
• Thread the new tie rod end on the exact same number of turns you counted.
• Seat the stud into the steering knuckle by hand.
• Install the new castle nut and tighten with a 17mm wrench, then torque with a torque wrench: Torque to 37 Nm (27 ft-lbs).
• Continue tightening as needed to align the castle nut slot with the hole, then install a new cotter pin using needle-nose pliers and bend the ends over.

Step 8: Tighten the jam nut

• Hold the tie rod end body with a 19mm wrench.
• Tighten the jam nut against the tie rod end with a 19mm wrench: Torque to 69 Nm (51 ft-lbs).

Step 9: Reinstall the wheel

• Reinstall the wheel and hand-thread the lug nuts.
• Lower the car from the jack stands using the floor jack.
• Torque the lug nuts in a star pattern with a torque wrench: Torque to 120 Nm (88.5 ft-lbs).

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✅ After Repair

• Turn the steering wheel lock-to-lock while parked and confirm there’s no binding or clicking.
• Take a short, slow test drive and confirm the steering wheel is close to centered and the car tracks straight.
• Get a 4-wheel alignment as soon as possible. Tie rod work changes toe and can destroy tires fast.
• Recheck the castle nut/cotter pin and lug nut torque after 25–50 miles.

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💰 DIY vs Shop Cost

Shop Cost: $250–$550 (parts + labor + alignment)

DIY Cost: $35–$120 (parts only; alignment extra)

You Save: $130–$400 by doing it yourself!

Shop labor rates vary but typically run $100-$150/hour. This repair takes a shop approximately 1.0–2.0 hours.

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🎯 Ready to get started?

HowToo makes it easy: same-day/2-day shipping on every part, plus all the tools and specialty tools you need! Check out the parts and tools sections below to add everything to your cart.