🔧 Forester - Outer Tie Rod End Replacement

The outer tie rod end connects your steering rack to the steering knuckle, and it’s a common wear item that can cause clunking, loose steering, or uneven tire wear. The key is to keep the new tie rod end installed at the same length as the old one so your toe alignment stays close enough to drive to an alignment shop.

Difficulty Level: Intermediate | Estimated Time: 1.0-2.0 hours (one side)

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⚠️ Safety & Precautions

• 🧯 Support your Forester with jack stands—never rely on a floor jack alone.
• 🧤 Keep fingers clear when separating the joint; it can “pop” loose suddenly.
• 🛞 After replacement, get a professional alignment ASAP to prevent tire wear.
• 🔌 Battery disconnect is not required for this job.

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🔧 Required Tools

You'll need the following tools for this repair:

• Floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum)
• Jack stands (rated 3-ton minimum)
• Wheel chocks
• Safety glasses
• Mechanic gloves
• Breaker bar 1/2"
• Torque wrench 3/8" drive (10–100 ft-lbs range)
• Torque wrench 1/2" drive (50–150 ft-lbs range)
• 19mm socket
• 17mm socket
• 17mm combination wrench
• Needle-nose pliers
• Side cutters
• Hammer (16 oz)
• Tie rod end puller (specialty)
• Penetrating oil
• Paint marker
• Tape measure
• Wire brush

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🔩 Required Parts

HowToo sells all the parts you need for this repair:

• Outer tie rod end - Qty: 1
• Cotter pin (tie rod end castle nut) - Qty: 1
• Anti-seize compound - Qty: 1

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📋 Before You Begin

• 🅿️ Park on level ground, set the parking brake, and place wheel chocks behind the rear wheels.
• 🔧 Loosen the front wheel lug nuts slightly before lifting the vehicle using a 19mm socket and breaker bar.
• 🖊️ Use a paint marker to mark the tie rod end and jam nut area so you can put the new part back in the same position.
• 📏 Measure the installed length (or count turns) as a “close alignment” method: use a tape measure and/or count the exact turns when removing the old tie rod end.

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🔨 Step-by-Step Instructions

Follow these steps in order:

Step 1: Lift and remove the wheel

• Use a floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum) to lift the front corner you’re working on.
• Set the vehicle onto jack stands (rated 3-ton minimum).
• Remove the wheel using a 19mm socket.

Step 2: Locate the outer tie rod end and clean the threads

• The outer tie rod end is the joint that goes into the steering knuckle, with a threaded shaft and a jam nut behind it.
• Use a wire brush to clean exposed threads near the jam nut.
• Spray penetrating oil on the jam nut threads and the tie-rod-to-knuckle nut area.

Step 3: Mark and measure so the new part goes on close to the same alignment

• Use a paint marker to mark the position of the jam nut on the inner tie rod threads.
• Use a tape measure to measure from a fixed point (like the inner tie rod boot clamp area) to the center of the tie rod end stud, and write it down.
• Good marking saves your tires.

Step 4: Remove the cotter pin from the tie rod end castle nut

• Straighten and pull the cotter pin using needle-nose pliers.
• If it breaks or is stuck, cut it with side cutters and remove the remaining pieces.

Step 5: Remove the tie rod end nut from the steering knuckle

• Remove the castle nut using a 17mm socket and breaker bar.
• If the stud spins, apply upward pressure at the joint area while loosening (keep hands clear), or lightly tap the knuckle area (not the threads) with a hammer (16 oz).

Step 6: Separate the tie rod end from the steering knuckle

• Install and use a tie rod end puller (specialty) to press the stud out of the knuckle. (A puller is a screw-style tool that pushes the stud out without damaging parts.)
• Turn the puller screw with a 17mm combination wrench (or the size required by your puller) until the joint “pops” free.

Step 7: Loosen the jam nut

• Hold the tie rod end body and loosen the jam nut using a 17mm combination wrench.
• Break it loose, but do not spin it far yet—just free it up.

Step 8: Remove the old tie rod end (count turns)

• Spin the tie rod end off the inner tie rod by hand.
• Count the exact number of turns it takes to come off, and write it down.
• This turn-count helps keep your toe close enough to drive to alignment.

Step 9: Install the new tie rod end to the same length

• Apply a light coat of anti-seize compound to the inner tie rod threads.
• Thread the new tie rod end on the same number of turns you counted during removal.
• Line up your paint marks and/or your measurement from Step 3 to match as closely as possible.

Step 10: Insert the stud into the steering knuckle and tighten the nut

• Insert the tie rod end stud into the knuckle by hand.
• Install the new nut and tighten using a 17mm socket and torque wrench 3/8" drive.
• Torque to 37 Nm (27 ft-lbs), then continue tightening slightly as needed to align the castle nut slot with the cotter pin hole.
• Install a new cotter pin using needle-nose pliers and bend the ends over.

Step 11: Tighten the jam nut

• Hold the tie rod end so it doesn’t rotate, then tighten the jam nut using a 17mm combination wrench.
• Torque to 69 Nm (51 ft-lbs).

Step 12: Reinstall the wheel and lower the vehicle

• Install the wheel and snug the lug nuts using a 19mm socket.
• Lower the vehicle with the floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum).
• Tighten lug nuts in a star pattern using a torque wrench 1/2" drive: Torque to 120 Nm (89 ft-lbs).

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✅ After Repair

• 🧪 Start the engine and turn the steering wheel lock-to-lock while parked to confirm smooth movement and no binding.
• 🔍 Take a short, slow test drive and listen for clunks; steering should feel stable and centered.
• 📐 Schedule a 4-wheel alignment as soon as possible. Your “turn count” gets you close, but it’s not a true alignment.
• 🛞 Recheck lug nut torque after 25–50 miles using a torque wrench 1/2" drive: Torque to 120 Nm (89 ft-lbs).

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💰 DIY vs Shop Cost

Shop Cost: $250-$450 (parts + labor + alignment typically extra)

DIY Cost: $40-$120 (parts only)

You Save: $130-$410 by doing it yourself!

Shop labor rates vary but typically run $100-$150/hour. This repair takes a shop approximately 1.0-2.0 hours.

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🎯 Ready to get started?

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