Howtoo Logo
2016 Nissan Versa
2016 Nissan Versa
1.6 SL - Inline 4 1.6L
Bryan specialist avatar

Have a Question? Ask a Specialist

Here is everything needed for this repair

See what I can do

Make Money

With HowToo

OnOff

Here is just the beginning of what I can do!

Select one to see me in action

Vehicle Features

Image Vehicle Features

How do I connect my phone to my stereo?

Vehicle Information

Image Vehicle Information

What is my horsepower and torque

Image Recognition

Image Image Recognition

What is this warning light on my dash?

Troubleshooting

Image Troubleshooting

I have a P0300 engine code

Vehicle Recognition

Image Vehicle Recognition

What vehicle is this?

Find shops near you

Image Find shops near you

Find a shop to do this repair

Vehicle Talk

Image Vehicle Talk

What’s your favorite vehicle of all time?

2016 Nissa Versa Note replacing outer tie rod and alignment (easy fix)

2016 Nissa Versa Note replacing outer tie rod and alignment (easy fix)

Suggested Parts

See all parts background
See All Parts

Tools & Fluids

2 Ton
2 Ton
Floor Jack
2 Ton
2 Ton
Jack Stands
Wheel Chocks
Wheel Chocks
21mm
21mm
Socket
or (13/16")
3/8
3/8
Ratchet
See all parts background
See All Tools

How to Replace the Outer Tie Rod End on a 2016 Nissan Versa (Step-by-Step)

Tools, parts list, safety tips, and torque specs to install it correctly and drive to an alignment

How to Replace the Outer Tie Rod End on a 2016 Nissan Versa (Step-by-Step)

Tools, parts list, safety tips, and torque specs to install it correctly and drive to an alignment

Orion
Orion

🔧 Versa - Outer Tie Rod End Replacement

The outer tie rod end connects your steering rack to the steering knuckle, and it’s a common wear item that can cause loose steering, clunking, or uneven tire wear. The key is to keep the new part installed to the same length (toe setting) so the car is safe to drive to an alignment.

Difficulty Level: Intermediate | Estimated Time: 1.0-2.0 hours (one side)


⚠️ Safety & Precautions

  • ⚠️ Support the car on jack stands; never rely on a floor jack.
  • ⚠️ Chock the rear wheels with wheel chocks and work on level ground.
  • ⚠️ Keep fingers clear when separating the joint; it can “pop” loose suddenly.
  • ⚠️ If you use a pickle fork (wedge tool), it can damage the dust boot—OK if you’re replacing the tie rod end.
  • ⚠️ You’ll need a professional alignment after replacement to prevent tire wear and steering pull.

🔧 Required Tools

You'll need the following tools for this repair:

  • Floor jack (rated 2-ton minimum)
  • Jack stands (rated 2-ton minimum)
  • Wheel chocks
  • 21mm socket
  • 3/8" drive ratchet
  • 1/2" drive breaker bar
  • Torque wrench (10–150 ft-lbs range)
  • 17mm combination wrench
  • 19mm combination wrench
  • 22mm combination wrench
  • Needle-nose pliers
  • Flathead screwdriver
  • Tie rod end puller (specialty)
  • Pickle fork separator (specialty)
  • Wire brush
  • Penetrating oil
  • Paint marker
  • Tape measure
  • Mechanic gloves
  • Safety glasses

🔩 Required Parts

HowToo sells all the parts you need for this repair:

  • Outer tie rod end - Qty: 1
  • Cotter pin (tie rod end) - Qty: 1
  • Anti-seize compound - Qty: 1

📋 Before You Begin

  • Park on level ground, center the steering wheel, and turn the engine off.
  • Set the parking brake and place wheel chocks behind the rear tires.
  • Spray penetrating oil on the tie rod jam nut threads and the tie-rod-end stud nut; let it soak 5–10 minutes.
  • Quick tool-size check: nut sizes can vary slightly by hardware brand. Test-fit sockets/wrenches before lifting.

🔨 Step-by-Step Instructions

Follow these steps in order:

Step 1: Loosen the wheel lug nuts

  • Use a 21mm socket with a 1/2" breaker bar to loosen the lug nuts about 1 turn (do not remove yet).

Step 2: Lift and support the front corner

  • Use a floor jack (rated 2-ton minimum) to lift the front corner at the proper jacking point.
  • Place jack stands (rated 2-ton minimum) under a solid support point and lower the car onto them.
  • Shake the car gently to confirm it’s stable before you work.

Step 3: Remove the wheel

  • Use a 21mm socket with a 3/8" drive ratchet to remove the lug nuts.
  • Remove the wheel and set it flat under the car as a backup safety measure.

Step 4: Mark the tie rod position (so toe stays close)

  • Use a wire brush to clean the exposed threads near the jam nut.
  • Use a paint marker to mark a line across the jam nut and the inner tie rod threads.
  • Use a tape measure to measure from the tie rod end to a fixed point (like the jam nut face) and write it down.
  • Also plan to count turns when removing the old tie rod end. This helps you drive to the alignment shop safely.

Step 5: Loosen the jam nut

  • Hold the inner tie rod with a 22mm combination wrench (size may vary) so it doesn’t twist.
  • Use a 19mm combination wrench (size may vary) to loosen the jam nut by turning it counterclockwise (just break it loose).

Step 6: Remove the cotter pin (if equipped)

  • Straighten the cotter pin legs using needle-nose pliers.
  • Pull the cotter pin out with needle-nose pliers. If it’s stuck, use a flathead screwdriver to help pry it free.

Step 7: Remove the tie rod end stud nut

  • Use a 17mm combination wrench or 19mm combination wrench (whichever fits) to remove the nut on the tie rod end stud at the steering knuckle.

Step 8: Separate the tie rod end from the steering knuckle

  • Preferred method: install a tie rod end puller (specialty) and tighten it until the joint pops free (a puller presses the stud out without hammering).
  • Alternate method: use a pickle fork separator (specialty) and strike it in until the joint separates.

Step 9: Unscrew the old tie rod end (count turns)

  • Spin the tie rod end off by hand, counting each full turn until it comes off (example: 17.5 turns).
  • Write the number down.

Step 10: Install the new tie rod end

  • Apply a light coat of anti-seize compound to the inner tie rod threads (avoid the stud and boot).
  • Screw the new tie rod end on the exact same number of turns you counted during removal.
  • Align the tie rod end so the stud drops cleanly into the steering knuckle.

Step 11: Tighten the stud nut and install a new cotter pin

  • Install the stud nut by hand first to avoid cross-threading.
  • Use a torque wrench (10–150 ft-lbs range) and the correct socket/wrench to tighten the stud nut: Torque to 34–40 Nm (25–30 ft-lbs).
  • If the cotter pin hole doesn’t line up, tighten the nut slightly to the next slot—do not loosen to align.
  • Install a new cotter pin and bend the legs using needle-nose pliers.

Step 12: Tighten the jam nut

  • Hold the inner tie rod with a 22mm combination wrench.
  • Use a torque wrench (with the appropriate wrench/adapter you have available) or tighten firmly with a wrench: Torque to 55–75 Nm (41–55 ft-lbs).

Step 13: Reinstall the wheel

  • Install lug nuts by hand first.
  • Lower the car off the jack stands using the floor jack.
  • Use a torque wrench with a 21mm socket: Torque to 113 Nm (83 ft-lbs) in a star pattern.

✅ After Repair

  • Start the engine and turn the steering wheel lock-to-lock slowly to confirm smooth movement and no binding.
  • Road test at low speed first; confirm the steering wheel is close to centered and the car tracks straight.
  • Get a 4-wheel alignment as soon as possible (same day is best). Driving without alignment can destroy tires quickly.
  • Re-check the area for any loose hardware after the short test drive.

💰 DIY vs Shop Cost

Shop Cost: $200-$450 (parts + labor + alignment)

DIY Cost: $25-$90 (parts only; alignment extra)

You Save: $120-$360 by doing it yourself!

Shop labor rates vary but typically run $100-$150/hour. This repair takes a shop approximately 1.0-1.5 hours.


🎯 Ready to get started?

HowToo makes it easy: same-day/2-day shipping on every part, plus all the tools and specialty tools you need! Check out the parts and tools sections below to add everything to your cart.

Parts
Tools
Menu
Videos
Earn