🔧 Murano - Outer Tie Rod End Replacement

The outer tie rod end connects your steering rack to the steering knuckle at the wheel. Replacing it restores safe steering control and fixes looseness, clunks, or uneven tire wear caused by a worn ball joint in the tie rod end.

Difficulty Level: Intermediate | Estimated Time: 1.0-2.0 hours (one side)

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⚠️ Safety & Precautions

• 🛑 Support your Murano on jack stands—never rely on a floor jack.
• 🧤 Wear safety glasses; rust and dirt fall when separating the joint.
• ⚠️ Keep the steering wheel centered and avoid turning it with parts disconnected.
• 🔧 After replacement, get a professional alignment ASAP to prevent tire wear.

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🔧 Required Tools

You'll need the following tools for this repair:

• Floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum)
• Jack stands (rated 3-ton minimum)
• Wheel chocks
• 21mm socket
• 1/2" drive breaker bar
• 1/2" drive torque wrench (20–200 ft-lbs range)
• Ratchet (3/8" drive)
• 19mm socket
• 22mm open-end wrench
• Needle-nose pliers
• Side cutters
• Wire brush
• Penetrating oil
• Tie rod end puller (specialty)
• Paint marker
• Tape measure
• Nitrile gloves
• Safety glasses

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🔩 Required Parts

HowToo sells all the parts you need for this repair:

• Outer tie rod end - Qty: 1
• Cotter pin (tie rod end stud) - Qty: 1
• Anti-seize compound - Qty: 1

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📋 Before You Begin

• 🅿️ Park on level ground, wheels straight, and set the parking brake.
• 🧱 Place wheel chocks behind the rear tires.
• 📏 Measure from the center of the wheel to the front edge of the tire on both sides (quick reference) and/or measure the exposed thread length at the tie rod area with a tape measure.
• 🖍️ Mark the tie rod and jam nut location with a paint marker so you can put the new part back in the same spot.
• Tip: Take a quick photo before disassembly.

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🔨 Step-by-Step Instructions

Follow these steps in order:

Assumption (important): Torque specs can vary by build and replacement part. The torque values below are common for this setup, but verify with factory service information if available.

Step 1: Loosen the wheel lug nuts

• Use a 21mm socket and 1/2" drive breaker bar to loosen the lug nuts about 1/2 turn (do not remove yet).

Step 2: Lift and support the front corner

• Use a floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum) to lift at the front jacking point.
• Set the vehicle down onto jack stands (rated 3-ton minimum).
• Give the vehicle a gentle push to confirm it is stable.

Step 3: Remove the wheel

• Remove the lug nuts using a 21mm socket and take the wheel off.

Step 4: Prep the tie rod end hardware

• Spray penetrating oil on the tie rod end stud nut and the jam nut threads.
• Use a wire brush to clean exposed threads so the jam nut turns smoothly.

Step 5: Mark and measure for a close alignment

• Use a paint marker to mark the position of the jam nut on the inner tie rod threads.
• Use a tape measure to record the distance from the jam nut to the end of the threads (or count exposed threads).
• Tip: This helps you drive to the alignment shop.

Step 6: Loosen the jam nut

• Hold the outer tie rod end body steady (by hand) and use a 22mm open-end wrench to turn the jam nut counterclockwise (just crack it loose).
• Do not spin the outer tie rod end off yet.

Step 7: Remove the cotter pin

• Straighten the cotter pin legs using needle-nose pliers.
• Pull the cotter pin out with needle-nose pliers or cut it with side cutters if it’s too rusty.
• Tip: Always use a new cotter pin.

Step 8: Remove the tie rod end nut

• Use a 19mm socket and ratchet (3/8" drive) to remove the tie rod end stud nut (often a castle nut style).

Step 9: Separate the tie rod end from the steering knuckle

• Install a tie rod end puller (specialty) and tighten it until the tapered stud pops free.
• A “tie rod end puller” is a clamp-style tool that presses the stud out without hammering the knuckle.

Step 10: Remove the old outer tie rod end (count turns)

• Spin the outer tie rod end off the inner tie rod by hand.
• Count the exact number of turns it takes to remove it, and write it down.

Step 11: Install the new outer tie rod end

• Apply a light coat of anti-seize compound to the inner tie rod threads (avoid the stud and boot).
• Thread the new outer tie rod end on the same number of turns you counted during removal.
• Align the stud into the steering knuckle hole by hand.

Step 12: Tighten the stud nut and install a new cotter pin

• Install the stud nut, then use a 19mm socket and 1/2" drive torque wrench to tighten it: Torque to 49 Nm (36 ft-lbs).
• If it’s a castle nut, continue tightening slightly as needed until the cotter pin hole lines up (never loosen to align).
• Insert the new cotter pin and bend the legs over using needle-nose pliers.

Step 13: Tighten the jam nut

• Hold the outer tie rod end so it doesn’t rotate, then use a 22mm open-end wrench to tighten the jam nut: Torque to 74 Nm (55 ft-lbs).

Step 14: Reinstall the wheel and lower the vehicle

• Reinstall the wheel and hand-start all lug nuts.
• Lower off the jack stands using the floor jack.
• Use a 21mm socket and 1/2" drive torque wrench to tighten lug nuts in a star pattern: Torque to 113 Nm (83 ft-lbs).

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✅ After Repair

• 🧭 Start the engine and slowly turn the steering wheel lock-to-lock to confirm smooth movement and no binding.
• 🔎 Test drive at low speed first. Listen for clunks and confirm the steering wheel stays near center.
• 📐 Schedule a 4-wheel alignment as soon as possible (toe setting will be off even if you counted turns).
• 🛞 Recheck lug nut torque after 25–50 miles using a 1/2" drive torque wrench.

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💰 DIY vs Shop Cost

Shop Cost: $250-$450 (parts + labor, not including alignment)

DIY Cost: $40-$120 (parts only)

You Save: $210-$330 by doing it yourself!

Shop labor rates vary but typically run $100-$150/hour. This repair takes a shop approximately 1.0-1.5 hours.

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🎯 Ready to get started?

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