🔧 Outlander - Outer Tie Rod End Replacement

The outer tie rod end connects your steering rack to the steering knuckle at the wheel. Replacing it restores tight steering and prevents uneven tire wear, but it will change wheel alignment (toe), so you’ll need an alignment afterward.

Difficulty Level: Intermediate | Estimated Time: 1.0-2.0 hours (one side)

Assumption: torque values shown are typical for this setup—verify with OEM service info if available.

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⚠️ Safety & Precautions

• 🛑 Support your Outlander on jack stands; never rely on a floor jack.
• 🛑 Chock the rear wheels and keep the steering wheel centered/locked.
• 🛑 Wear eye protection when removing cotter pins and using pullers.
• 🛑 Do not hit the steering rack/inner tie rod; you can damage it.
• 🛑 Alignment is required after replacement to prevent tire wear.

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🔧 Required Tools

You'll need the following tools for this repair:

• Floor jack rated 2-ton minimum
• Jack stands rated 2-ton minimum
• Wheel chocks
• Safety glasses
• Mechanic gloves
• Breaker bar 1/2-inch drive
• Torque wrench 3/8-inch drive 10-100 ft-lbs
• Torque wrench 1/2-inch drive 50-150 ft-lbs
• 19mm socket
• Metric socket set 10mm-22mm
• Metric combination wrench set 10mm-22mm
• Pliers
• Diagonal cutters
• Flathead screwdriver
• Wire brush
• Paint marker
• Tape measure
• Tie rod end puller (specialty)
• Pickle fork ball joint separator (specialty)

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🔩 Required Parts

HowToo sells all the parts you need for this repair:

• Outer tie rod end - Qty: 1
• Cotter pin - Qty: 1
• Anti-seize compound - Qty: 1
• Penetrating oil - Qty: 1

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📋 Before You Begin

• Park on level ground, center the steering wheel, and turn the engine off.
• Set the parking brake and place wheel chocks behind the rear tires.
• Crack the front wheel lug nuts loose 1/4 turn using a 19mm socket and breaker bar.
• Measure a quick reference toe: use a tape measure to measure the distance between the front edges of the two front tires (at hub height), then the rear edges. Write it down.

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🔨 Step-by-Step Instructions

Follow these steps in order:

Step 1: Lift and remove the wheel

• Lift the front corner with a floor jack rated 2-ton minimum at the approved front jacking point.
• Set the vehicle down securely on jack stands rated 2-ton minimum.
• Remove the lug nuts using a 19mm socket, then remove the wheel.

Step 2: Locate and prep the tie rod end

• Find the outer tie rod end at the back of the wheel area. It connects the tie rod to the steering knuckle.
• Clean the threads at the jam nut area with a wire brush.
• Spray the jam nut threads and the tie-rod-end stud nut with penetrating oil.
• Mark alignment references: use a paint marker to mark the tie rod end position relative to the inner tie rod threads.
• Count turns: as you remove the tie rod end later, count exact turns so the new one can go on the same number of turns.

Step 3: Remove the cotter pin and loosen the stud nut

• Remove the cotter pin from the tie rod end stud using pliers or diagonal cutters.
• Loosen and remove the tie rod end stud nut using the correct-size metric socket or metric wrench (commonly 17mm-19mm).
• If the stud spins, hold the stud flats (if present) with the correct-size metric wrench while loosening the nut.

Step 4: Separate the tie rod end from the steering knuckle

• Use a tie rod end puller (specialty) to press the stud out of the steering knuckle.
• If you’re using a pickle fork ball joint separator (specialty) (a wedged fork tool that forces the joint apart), expect the rubber boot may get damaged—use it only if you’re replacing the tie rod end (you are).
• Tip: Keep the knuckle supported; don’t let it snap.

Step 5: Loosen the jam nut and remove the tie rod end

• Hold the inner tie rod (or flats on the inner rod) with the correct-size metric wrench.
• Loosen the jam nut (the locking nut behind the tie rod end) using the correct-size metric wrench (commonly 19mm-22mm).
• Unscrew the outer tie rod end by hand, counting the turns until it comes off completely.

Step 6: Install the new tie rod end

• Apply a light coat of anti-seize compound to the inner tie rod threads.
• Screw the new outer tie rod end on the exact same number of turns you counted during removal.
• Insert the stud into the steering knuckle.
• Install the stud nut by hand, then tighten with the correct-size metric socket or metric wrench.
• Torque the outer tie rod end stud nut to 49 Nm (36 ft-lbs), then continue tightening as needed to align the cotter pin hole.
• Install a new cotter pin and bend it over using pliers.

Step 7: Tighten the jam nut

• Hold the tie rod end so it doesn’t rotate using the correct-size metric wrench.
• Tighten the jam nut against the tie rod end using the correct-size metric wrench.
• Torque the jam nut to 70 Nm (52 ft-lbs).

Step 8: Reinstall the wheel and lower the vehicle

• Reinstall the wheel and hand-thread the lug nuts.
• Lower the vehicle off the jack stands rated 2-ton minimum using the floor jack rated 2-ton minimum.
• Torque the lug nuts in a star pattern using a torque wrench 1/2-inch drive 50-150 ft-lbs.
• Torque lug nuts to 108 Nm (80 ft-lbs).

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✅ After Repair

• 🚗 Do a short, slow test drive and confirm the steering wheel is close to centered and the Outlander tracks straight.
• 🚗 Re-check for any looseness or clunks over small bumps.
• 🧰 Get a professional 4-wheel alignment as soon as possible (toe will be off even if you matched the turns).
• 📏 Optional check: re-measure the tire-to-tire toe with the tape measure and compare to your “before” notes.

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💰 DIY vs Shop Cost

Shop Cost: $250-$550 (parts + labor + alignment)

DIY Cost: $40-$120 (parts only)

You Save: $210-$430 by doing it yourself!

Shop labor rates vary but typically run $100-$150/hour. This repair takes a shop approximately 1.0-1.5 hours, plus alignment time.

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🎯 Ready to get started?

HowToo makes it easy: same-day/2-day shipping on every part, plus all the tools and specialty tools you need! Check out the parts and tools sections below to add everything to your cart.