How to Replace the Outer Tie Rod End on a 2016 Kia Soul (Front Steering Repair)
Step-by-step instructions with required tools/parts, torque specs, safety tips, and alignment notes
How to Replace the Outer Tie Rod End on a 2016 Kia Soul (Front Steering Repair)
Step-by-step instructions with required tools/parts, torque specs, safety tips, and alignment notes


Assumptions (quick): Front outer tie rod end replacement on your Soul; torque specs can vary by production date—use the values below as best-fit guidance and verify with a service manual if available.
🔧 Soul - Outer Tie Rod End Replacement
The outer tie rod end connects your steering rack to the steering knuckle and lets the wheel turn while still holding alignment. Replacing it is straightforward, but you must keep the new part set to the old length and get an alignment afterward to prevent tire wear.
Difficulty Level: Intermediate | Estimated Time: 1.0-2.0 hours
⚠️ Safety & Precautions
- 🛑 Support the Soul with jack stands—never rely on a floor jack alone.
- 🛑 Chock the rear wheels and leave the transmission in 1st gear (manual) before lifting.
- 🛑 Wear eye protection when removing the cotter pin and separating the joint.
- 🛑 Don’t hammer on the threaded stud—damaged threads can cause a loose joint.
🔧 Required Tools
You'll need the following tools for this repair:
- Floor jack (rated 2-ton minimum)
- Jack stands (rated 2-ton minimum)
- Wheel chocks
- Safety glasses
- Mechanic gloves
- Breaker bar 1/2"
- Torque wrench 3/8" (10–100 ft-lbs range)
- Torque wrench 1/2" (50–150 ft-lbs range)
- 19mm socket
- 17mm socket
- 22mm open-end wrench
- Adjustable wrench 10"
- Needle-nose pliers
- Diagonal cutters
- Paint marker
- Penetrating oil
- Tie rod end puller (specialty)
🔩 Required Parts
HowToo sells all the parts you need for this repair:
- Outer tie rod end - Qty: 1
- Cotter pin (new) - Qty: 1
- Jam nut (if not reusable) - Qty: 1
📋 Before You Begin
- 🧭 Park on level ground, straighten the steering wheel, and set the parking brake.
- 🧱 Place wheel chocks behind both rear tires.
- 🖊️ Use a paint marker to mark the tie rod and jam nut position to help preserve alignment.
- 🧴 Spray penetrating oil on the jam nut and the tie rod end threads and let it soak 5–10 minutes.
🔨 Step-by-Step Instructions
Follow these steps in order:
Step 1: Loosen the wheel lug nuts
- Use a 19mm socket and breaker bar 1/2" to loosen the front wheel lug nuts about 1/2 turn (do not remove yet).
Step 2: Lift and support the front corner
- Use a floor jack to lift at the front jacking point.
- Set the vehicle onto jack stands and give it a gentle shake to confirm it’s stable.
- Remove the wheel using the 19mm socket.
Step 3: Mark and measure the current tie rod position
- Use a paint marker to mark the position of the jam nut relative to the tie rod.
- Count and write down the number of visible threads (or measure the exposed thread length). This helps keep alignment close.
Step 4: Loosen the jam nut
- Hold the tie rod end body with an adjustable wrench 10".
- Use a 22mm open-end wrench to break the jam nut loose (turn the jam nut counterclockwise a small amount).
Step 5: Remove the cotter pin from the tie rod stud
- Use needle-nose pliers to straighten the cotter pin legs.
- Use diagonal cutters or needle-nose pliers to pull the cotter pin out.
- Always replace the cotter pin.
Step 6: Remove the castle nut
- Use a 17mm socket to remove the tie rod end castle nut (the nut with slots for the cotter pin).
Step 7: Separate the tie rod end from the steering knuckle
- Install a tie rod end puller (specialty) and tighten it until the stud “pops” free from the knuckle.
- A tie rod end puller is a clamp-style tool that presses the stud out without damaging the boot.
Step 8: Remove the old outer tie rod end
- Spin the tie rod end off the threaded tie rod by hand.
- Count the exact number of turns it takes to remove it, and write the number down.
Step 9: Install the new outer tie rod end
- Thread the new tie rod end onto the tie rod using the exact same number of turns you counted.
- Snug the jam nut up to the new tie rod end by hand.
Step 10: Attach the stud to the steering knuckle and torque it
- Insert the tie rod end stud into the knuckle.
- Install the castle nut by hand, then tighten with a 17mm socket.
- Torque to 35–49 Nm (26–36 ft-lbs).
- If the cotter pin hole doesn’t line up, tighten the nut slightly to the next slot—do not loosen to align.
- Install a new cotter pin using needle-nose pliers and bend the legs over.
Step 11: Tighten the jam nut
- Hold the tie rod end body with an adjustable wrench 10".
- Tighten the jam nut with a 22mm open-end wrench.
- Torque to 55–75 Nm (41–55 ft-lbs).
Step 12: Reinstall the wheel and lower the Soul
- Reinstall the wheel and hand-thread the lug nuts.
- Lower the vehicle with the floor jack.
- Tighten lug nuts in a star pattern using a torque wrench 1/2".
- Torque to 88–108 Nm (65–80 ft-lbs).
✅ After Repair
- 🧪 Start the engine and turn the steering wheel lock-to-lock to confirm smooth movement and no popping noises.
- 👀 Visually re-check the cotter pin is fully installed and the boot isn’t twisted or torn.
- 🚗 Get a front wheel alignment as soon as possible (recommended immediately). Driving without alignment can ruin tires quickly.
- 🛣️ Do a short, slow test drive and re-check lug nut torque afterward.
💰 DIY vs Shop Cost
Shop Cost: $180-$350 (parts + labor + basic alignment)
DIY Cost: $25-$90 (parts only)
You Save: $90-$260 by doing it yourself!
Shop labor rates vary but typically run $100-$150/hour. This repair takes a shop approximately 1.0-1.5 hours.
🎯 Ready to get started?
HowToo makes it easy: same-day/2-day shipping on every part, plus all the tools and specialty tools you need! Check out the parts and tools sections below to add everything to your cart.

















