🔧 Sedona - Outer Tie Rod End Replacement

The outer tie rod end connects your steering rack (via the inner tie rod) to the steering knuckle, and it’s what lets the front wheels turn. Replacing it is straightforward, but the alignment can change—so you’ll need an alignment after the install to prevent tire wear and pull.

Difficulty Level: Intermediate | Estimated Time: 1.0-2.0 hours (one side)

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⚠️ Safety & Precautions

• ⚠️ Support the van with jack stands; never rely on a floor jack alone.
• ⚠️ Keep hands clear when separating the joint; it can “pop” loose suddenly.
• ⚠️ Do not hammer directly on the steering knuckle threads or stud threads.
• ⚠️ After replacement, drive gently to an alignment shop; steering may be off-center.
• 🔋 Battery disconnect is not required for this repair.

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🔧 Required Tools

You'll need the following tools for this repair:

• Floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum)
• Jack stands (rated 3-ton minimum)
• Wheel chocks
• Safety glasses
• Mechanic gloves
• 21mm socket
• 1/2" drive breaker bar
• 1/2" drive torque wrench (20-200 ft-lbs)
• Needle-nose pliers
• 17mm socket
• 17mm combination wrench
• 19mm socket
• 19mm combination wrench
• Tie rod end puller (specialty)
• Paint marker
• Penetrating oil
• Wire brush
• Tape measure

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🔩 Required Parts

HowToo sells all the parts you need for this repair:

• Outer tie rod end - Qty: 1
• New cotter pin - Qty: 1

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📋 Before You Begin

• 🧱 Park on level ground, set the parking brake, and place wheel chocks behind the rear wheels.
• 🛞 Slightly loosen the front wheel lug nuts using a 21mm socket and breaker bar (do not remove yet).
• 🧼 Spray penetrating oil on the tie rod end jam nut and the stud nut. Let it soak 5–10 minutes.
• 🖊️ Use a paint marker to mark the relationship between the jam nut and the threaded rod. This helps keep toe close to where it was.

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🔨 Step-by-Step Instructions

Follow these steps in order:

Step 1: Lift and secure the front corner

• Use a floor jack to lift the front corner you’re working on.
• Place jack stands under the correct support point and lower the van onto them.
• Remove the wheel using a 21mm socket.

Step 2: Locate the outer tie rod end

• Find the part at the back of the steering knuckle with a ball-stud going down through the knuckle.
• Identify the jam nut (the lock nut behind the tie rod end). A jam nut is a thin nut that locks the adjustment so it can’t turn.

Step 3: Measure and mark to preserve alignment (best effort)

• Use a tape measure to measure from a fixed point on the tie rod end to a fixed point on the inner tie rod (for example, end-to-end length). Write it down.
• Use a paint marker to add a clear reference line across the jam nut and inner tie rod threads.
• This helps you drive to alignment safely.

Step 4: Loosen the jam nut

• Hold the inner tie rod section with a 19mm combination wrench (or 19mm socket if it fits).
• Loosen the jam nut using a 17mm combination wrench (or 17mm socket).
• Back the jam nut away a few turns, but do not move it far.

Step 5: Remove the cotter pin and stud nut

• Straighten and remove the cotter pin using needle-nose pliers.
• Remove the tie rod end stud nut using a 17mm socket or 19mm socket (size varies by brand/fastener).
• If the nut is heavily rusted, clean exposed threads with a wire brush and use penetrating oil.

Step 6: Separate the tie rod end from the steering knuckle

• Install a tie rod end puller (specialty) over the joint and tighten it until the stud pops free.
• A tie rod end puller is a tool that presses the stud out without damaging the boot.
• Don’t hit the stud threads.

Step 7: Remove the outer tie rod end from the inner tie rod

• Spin the tie rod end off by hand, counting the exact number of turns until it comes off.
• Record the number of turns so you can install the new one the same way.

Step 8: Install the new outer tie rod end

• Thread the new tie rod end on the same number of turns you counted during removal.
• Align it so the stud drops cleanly into the steering knuckle hole.
• Install the stud nut using a 17mm socket or 19mm socket.
• Torque to 49 Nm (36 ft-lbs), then continue tightening as needed to align the castle nut slot for the cotter pin.
• Install a new cotter pin and bend the ends using needle-nose pliers.

Step 9: Tighten the jam nut

• Hold the tie rod end with a 19mm combination wrench.
• Tighten the jam nut using a 17mm combination wrench.
• Torque to 55 Nm (41 ft-lbs).

Step 10: Reinstall the wheel and lower the van

• Reinstall the wheel using a 21mm socket.
• Lower the van off the jack stands using the floor jack.
• Torque lug nuts to 103 Nm (76 ft-lbs) in a star pattern using a torque wrench.

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✅ After Repair

• 🧪 Turn the steering wheel lock-to-lock while parked and confirm nothing binds or rubs.
• 🔍 Check the tie rod end boot isn’t twisted and the cotter pin is fully seated.
• 🚗 Road test at low speed first; verify steering wheel is close to straight and no clunks are present.
• 🛞 Get a front wheel alignment as soon as possible (recommended immediately).

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💰 DIY vs Shop Cost

Shop Cost: $200-$450 (parts + labor + alignment)

DIY Cost: $35-$120 (parts only)

You Save: $165-$330 by doing it yourself!

Shop labor rates vary but typically run $100-$150/hour. This repair takes a shop approximately 1.0-1.5 hours.

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🎯 Ready to get started?

HowToo makes it easy: same-day/2-day shipping on every part, plus all the tools and specialty tools you need! Check out the parts and tools sections below to add everything to your cart.