🔧 Forte - Outer Tie Rod End Replacement

The outer tie rod end links your steering to the front wheel knuckle. Replacement fixes play/clunking and helps keep the car tracking straight. Assumption: You’re replacing the front outer tie rod end (the one at the wheel).

Difficulty Level: Intermediate | Estimated Time: 1-2 hours (one side)

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⚠️ Safety & Precautions

• 🛑 Use jack stands on solid ground—never work under a car supported only by a jack.
• 🛑 Wear safety glasses; rust and dirt fall straight down.
• 🛑 The steering can shift when the joint releases—keep hands clear.
• 🛑 You must get an alignment after this to avoid rapid tire wear.

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🔧 Required Tools

You'll need the following tools for this repair:

• Wheel chocks
• Floor jack (rated 2-ton minimum)
• Jack stands (rated 2-ton minimum)
• 21mm socket
• 1/2" drive breaker bar
• 1/2" drive torque wrench (20-150 ft-lbs range)
• 17mm socket
• 19mm socket
• 24mm open-end wrench
• 10" adjustable wrench
• Needle-nose pliers
• Diagonal cutters
• Tie rod end puller (specialty)
• Pickle fork separator (specialty)
• Ball-peen hammer (16 oz)
• Penetrating oil
• Paint marker
• Measuring tape
• Mechanic gloves
• Safety glasses

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🔩 Required Parts

HowToo sells all the parts you need for this repair:

• Outer tie rod end - Qty: 1
• Cotter pin (tie rod end) - Qty: 1
• Tie rod end castle nut (if not included) - Qty: 1
• Anti-seize compound - Qty: 1

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📋 Before You Begin

• Park on level ground, set the parking brake, and place wheel chocks behind the rear wheels.
• Before lifting, slightly loosen the lug nuts using a 21mm socket and breaker bar.
• Spray the outer tie rod threads and jam nut with penetrating oil and let it soak 5-10 minutes.
• Plan to count turns or measure thread exposure so the new part goes on close to the old setting.

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🔨 Step-by-Step Instructions

Follow these steps in order:

Step 1: Lift and remove the wheel

• Lift the front corner with a floor jack (rated 2-ton minimum).
• Place jack stands (rated 2-ton minimum) under a solid support point and lower the car onto them.
• Remove the wheel using a 21mm socket.

Step 2: Mark and measure the current position

• Use a paint marker to mark the jam nut position relative to the tie rod.
• Use a measuring tape to measure the exposed threads (or the distance from jam nut to tie rod end).
• This helps the alignment stay close.

Step 3: Loosen the jam nut

• Hold the tie rod with a 10" adjustable wrench (this prevents twisting the inner joint).
• Use a 24mm open-end wrench to loosen the jam nut 1-2 turns (do not move it far yet).

Step 4: Remove the cotter pin and castle nut

• Pull the cotter pin out using needle-nose pliers; if it’s stubborn, cut it with diagonal cutters.
• Remove the castle nut using a 17mm socket or 19mm socket (both are common depending on replacement hardware).

Step 5: Pop the tie rod end out of the knuckle

• Best method: Install the tie rod end puller (specialty) and tighten until the stud releases. A puller is a clamp tool that presses the stud out without hammering.
• Alternate method: Drive the pickle fork separator (specialty) in using a ball-peen hammer (16 oz) until it separates.

Step 6: Unthread the old tie rod end

• Spin the old tie rod end off by hand while counting the exact turns (example: 16 turns).
• Keep the jam nut in place once it’s loose so your reference doesn’t change.

Step 7: Thread on the new tie rod end

• Apply a light coat of anti-seize compound to the threads.
• Thread the new tie rod end on by the exact same number of turns you counted.
• Snug it up to the jam nut by hand.

Step 8: Install the stud into the knuckle and torque it

• Insert the tie rod stud into the steering knuckle.
• Install the new castle nut and tighten with a torque wrench and the 17mm socket or 19mm socket.
• Torque to 35-45 Nm (26-33 ft-lbs), then continue tightening slightly until the cotter pin hole lines up.
• Install a new cotter pin using needle-nose pliers and bend both legs over.

Step 9: Tighten the jam nut

• Hold the tie rod end with the 10" adjustable wrench.
• Tighten the jam nut using the 24mm open-end wrench.
• Torque to 55-75 Nm (41-55 ft-lbs).

Step 10: Reinstall the wheel and torque lug nuts

• Reinstall the wheel and snug lug nuts using a 21mm socket.
• Lower the car with the floor jack and remove the jack stands.
• Torque lug nuts in a star pattern using a torque wrench: Torque to 88-108 Nm (65-80 ft-lbs).

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✅ After Repair

• With the car on the ground, turn the steering wheel left/right and confirm nothing binds or clicks.
• Do a short, slow test drive and confirm it tracks straight and the steering wheel feels normal.
• Get a front alignment as soon as possible (recommended same day).
• Recheck the jam nut tightness and verify the cotter pin is fully installed.

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💰 DIY vs Shop Cost

Shop Cost: $250-$450 (parts + labor + basic alignment)

DIY Cost: $40-$120 (parts only)

You Save: $130-$410 by doing it yourself!

Shop labor rates vary but typically run $100-$150/hour. This repair takes a shop approximately 1.0-1.5 hours.

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🎯 Ready to get started?

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