🔧 Renegade - Outer Tie Rod End Replacement

Your Renegade’s outer tie rod end connects the steering rack to the front steering knuckle. Replacing it restores safe steering and prevents uneven tire wear, but it can change alignment—so you’ll need an alignment afterward.

Difficulty Level: Intermediate | Estimated Time: 1.0-2.0 hours (both sides)

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⚠️ Safety & Precautions

• ⚠️ Support the vehicle with jack stands; never rely on a jack.
• ⚠️ Keep hands clear when separating the tie rod end; it can “pop” loose suddenly.
• ⚠️ Use penetrating oil and steady force; avoid heat near the CV boot and ABS wiring.
• 🔋 Battery disconnect is not required for this repair.

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🔧 Required Tools

You'll need the following tools for this repair:

• Floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum)
• Jack stands (rated 3-ton minimum)
• Wheel chocks
• 21mm socket
• 1/2" drive breaker bar
• 1/2" drive torque wrench (20-200 ft-lbs)
• 3/8" drive ratchet
• 3/8" drive torque wrench (10-80 ft-lbs)
• 13mm socket
• 18mm socket
• Open-end wrench set (13mm-21mm)
• Pliers
• Diagonal cutters
• Paint marker
• Measuring tape
• Penetrating oil
• Wire brush
• Tie rod end puller (specialty)
• Safety glasses
• Mechanic gloves

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🔩 Required Parts

HowToo sells all the parts you need for this repair:

• Outer tie rod end - Qty: 1
• New cotter pin - Qty: 1
• Thread locker (medium strength) - Qty: 1
• Chassis grease - Qty: 1

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📋 Before You Begin

• Park on level ground, steering wheel straight, and set the parking brake.
• Place wheel chocks behind the rear tires.
• Loosen the front wheel lug nuts 1 turn using a 21mm socket and breaker bar before lifting.
• Spray penetrating oil on the outer tie rod end nut, the jam nut, and the threads using penetrating oil.

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🔨 Step-by-Step Instructions

Follow these steps in order:

Step 1: Lift and secure the front corner

• Lift the front at the proper jacking point using a floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum).
• Set the vehicle onto jack stands (rated 3-ton minimum) and gently shake to confirm stability.
• Remove the wheel using a 21mm socket and 3/8" drive ratchet.

Step 2: Mark the current tie rod position (to keep alignment close)

• Clean the exposed threads with a wire brush.
• Put a reference line across the jam nut and inner tie rod using a paint marker.
• Measure from the center of the tie rod stud to a fixed point on the tie rod end using a measuring tape and write it down.
• This helps you drive to an alignment shop.

Step 3: Loosen the jam nut

• Hold the inner tie rod with an open-end wrench set (13mm-21mm) (use the size that fits).
• Loosen the jam nut using an open-end wrench set (13mm-21mm).
• Back the jam nut off a few turns, but do not move the inner tie rod itself.
• Jam nut = the “lock nut” behind the tie rod end.

Step 4: Remove the cotter pin and tie rod end nut

• Straighten and remove the cotter pin using pliers and diagonal cutters.
• Remove the tie rod end nut using an 18mm socket and 3/8" drive ratchet.

Step 5: Separate the tie rod end from the steering knuckle

• Install the tie rod end puller (specialty) onto the joint and tighten it until the stud pops free.
• A puller prevents damaging the boot.
• Steering knuckle = the part the wheel hub bolts to.

Step 6: Unscrew and remove the old outer tie rod end

• Count the turns as you spin the tie rod end off the inner tie rod by hand.
• Write the number of turns down using your phone notes (example: 17.5 turns).
• Remove the old tie rod end.

Step 7: Install the new outer tie rod end

• Thread the new tie rod end onto the inner tie rod the exact same number of turns you counted.
• Snug the jam nut by hand against the new tie rod end.
• If the new tie rod end has a grease fitting, add grease using chassis grease until the boot just starts to swell.

Step 8: Reconnect to the steering knuckle and torque fasteners

• Insert the tie rod stud into the steering knuckle by hand.
• Install the new nut and tighten using an 18mm socket and 3/8" drive ratchet.
• Torque to 63 Nm (46 ft-lbs) using a 3/8" drive torque wrench (10-80 ft-lbs).
• Align the castle nut slot with the hole and install a new cotter pin using pliers.
• Never loosen to align—tighten to the next slot.

Step 9: Tighten the jam nut

• Hold the inner tie rod with an open-end wrench set (13mm-21mm).
• Tighten the jam nut using an open-end wrench set (13mm-21mm).
• Torque to 75 Nm (55 ft-lbs) using a 3/8" drive torque wrench (10-80 ft-lbs) and the correct 13mm socket if your jam nut size matches.
• If your jam nut isn’t 13mm, torque by wrench feel and get alignment ASAP.

Step 10: Reinstall the wheel and lower the vehicle

• Reinstall the wheel and hand-thread lug nuts.
• Lower the vehicle using a floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum).
• Torque lug nuts to 135 Nm (100 ft-lbs) using a 1/2" drive torque wrench (20-200 ft-lbs) and 21mm socket.

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✅ After Repair

• Start the engine and turn the steering wheel lock-to-lock to confirm smooth movement and no binding.
• Road test at low speed first; verify the steering wheel is close to centered.
• Get a 4-wheel alignment as soon as possible to prevent tire wear.
• Recheck the jam nut and lug nut torque after 25-50 miles using a torque wrench.

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💰 DIY vs Shop Cost

Shop Cost: $250-$500 (parts + labor) + $120-$180 alignment

DIY Cost: $35-$120 (parts only)

You Save: $215-$560 by doing it yourself!

Shop labor rates vary but typically run $100-$150/hour. This repair takes a shop approximately 1.0-1.5 hours.

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🎯 Ready to get started?

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