🔧 Cherokee - Outer Tie Rod End Replacement

The outer tie rod end connects your steering rack to the steering knuckle and allows the wheel to turn. Replacing it restores safe steering and helps prevent uneven tire wear and clunking. You’ll also need a wheel alignment afterward to set the front toe correctly.

Difficulty Level: Intermediate | Estimated Time: 1.0-2.0 hours (one side)

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⚠️ Safety & Precautions

• 🛑 Support the Cherokee with jack stands; never rely on a jack.
• 🧤 Wear safety glasses and gloves; rust and metal chips are common here.
• 🧯 Keep fingers clear when separating the joint; it can “pop” loose suddenly.
• 🧭 Plan on an alignment after replacement; counting turns is only a temporary baseline.
• 🔋 Battery disconnect is not required for this repair.

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🔧 Required Tools

You'll need the following tools for this repair:

• Floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum)
• Jack stands (rated 3-ton minimum)
• Wheel chocks
• 21mm socket
• Breaker bar (1/2")
• Torque wrench (1/2")
• Torque wrench (3/8")
• Ratchet (3/8")
• 18mm socket
• Open-end wrench set (up to 24mm)
• Tie rod end puller (specialty)
• Needle-nose pliers
• Diagonal cutters
• Wire brush
• Penetrating oil
• Paint marker
• Tape measure
• Safety glasses
• Mechanic gloves

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🔩 Required Parts

HowToo sells all the parts you need for this repair:

• Outer tie rod end - Qty: 1
• Cotter pin set - Qty: 1
• Anti-seize compound - Qty: 1

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📋 Before You Begin

• Park on level ground, set the parking brake, and chock the rear wheels.
• Loosen the front wheel lug nuts slightly before lifting.
• Spray penetrating oil on the tie rod end jam nut and the stud nut, then wait 5–10 minutes.
• Use a paint marker to mark the tie rod threads and jam nut position so you can reassemble close to the original toe setting.

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🔨 Step-by-Step Instructions

Follow these steps in order:

Assumption: This covers the common outer tie rod end setup on your Cherokee; torque values shown are typical for this platform—always match your new part’s hardware and tighten to spec where provided.

Step 1: Lift and remove the wheel

• Use a 21mm socket and breaker bar (1/2") to loosen the lug nuts 1/2 turn.
• Lift the front corner with a floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum) and support with jack stands (rated 3-ton minimum).
• Remove the lug nuts with a 21mm socket and remove the wheel.

Step 2: Mark the current position (helps you drive to alignment)

• Use a paint marker to draw a line across the jam nut and the inner tie rod threads.
• Use a tape measure to measure from the center of the tie-rod stud to a fixed point on the knuckle, and write it down. Any repeatable reference point works.

Step 3: Loosen the jam nut

• Hold the inner tie rod with an open-end wrench set (up to 24mm) (if it has flats).
• Use an open-end wrench set (up to 24mm) to break the jam nut loose (turn the jam nut counterclockwise).
• Do not spin it far yet—just loosen it.

Step 4: Remove the cotter pin and the tie rod end nut

• Clean the exposed threads with a wire brush.
• Remove the cotter pin using needle-nose pliers and diagonal cutters if needed.
• Remove the castle nut from the tie rod stud using an 18mm socket and a ratchet (3/8").

Step 5: Separate the tie rod end from the steering knuckle

• Install a tie rod end puller (specialty) over the joint and tighten it until the stud pops free.
• A puller avoids boot damage and saves threads.

Step 6: Remove the old tie rod end (count the turns)

• Spin the jam nut back a few turns using an open-end wrench set (up to 24mm).
• Unscrew the outer tie rod end by hand while counting the exact turns (example: 17.5 turns). Write it down.

Step 7: Install the new outer tie rod end

• Apply a thin film of anti-seize compound to the inner tie rod threads (avoid getting it on the stud taper).
• Screw the new tie rod end on the same number of turns you counted during removal.
• Line up your paint marks and snug the jam nut by hand.

Step 8: Attach to the knuckle and torque hardware

• Insert the tie rod stud into the knuckle.
• Install the new castle nut by hand, then tighten using an 18mm socket and a torque wrench (3/8").
• Torque to 63 Nm (46 ft-lbs), then continue tightening just enough to align the cotter pin hole.
• Install a new cotter pin using needle-nose pliers and bend the ends over.
• Hold the inner tie rod with an open-end wrench set (up to 24mm) and tighten the jam nut.
• Torque to 75 Nm (55 ft-lbs).

Step 9: Reinstall the wheel and lower the Cherokee

• Reinstall the wheel and hand-thread the lug nuts.
• Lower the vehicle with the floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum).
• Tighten the lug nuts in a star pattern using a 21mm socket and torque wrench (1/2").
• Torque to 135 Nm (100 ft-lbs).

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✅ After Repair

• Turn the steering wheel lock-to-lock while parked and listen for clunks or rubbing.
• Test drive slowly and verify the steering wheel is close to centered.
• Get a professional wheel alignment as soon as possible (front toe setting).
• Recheck the jam nut area for movement after the first short drive.

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💰 DIY vs Shop Cost

Shop Cost: $220-$450 (parts + labor + alignment)

DIY Cost: $35-$120 (parts only)

You Save: $100-$300 by doing it yourself!

Shop labor rates vary but typically run $100-$150/hour. This repair takes a shop approximately 1.0-1.5 hours.

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🎯 Ready to get started?

HowToo makes it easy: same-day/2-day shipping on every part, plus all the tools and specialty tools you need! Check out the parts and tools sections below to add everything to your cart.