🔧 Veloster - Outer Tie Rod End Replacement

The outer tie rod end is the steering joint that connects your steering rack (via the tie rod) to the steering knuckle at the wheel. Replacing it restores tight steering and fixes looseness/clunking, but you’ll need an alignment afterward because it affects toe (wheel pointing in/out).

Difficulty Level: Intermediate | Estimated Time: 1.0-2.0 hours (one side)

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⚠️ Safety & Precautions

• ⚠️ Support your Veloster with jack stands on solid ground; never rely on a floor jack alone.
• ⚠️ Chock the rear wheels and leave the transmission in 1st gear (manual) with the parking brake set.
• ⚠️ Wear safety glasses; rust and dirt fall when separating the joint.
• ⚠️ Do not hammer directly on the tie rod threads; you can ruin the new part.

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🔧 Required Tools

You'll need the following tools for this repair:

• Floor jack (rated 2-ton minimum)
• Jack stands (rated 2-ton minimum)
• Wheel chocks
• Safety glasses
• Mechanic gloves
• 21mm socket
• 1/2" drive breaker bar
• 1/2" drive torque wrench
• 17mm socket
• 17mm wrench
• Adjustable wrench (12-inch)
• Needle-nose pliers
• Diagonal cutters
• Tie rod end puller (specialty)
• Wire brush
• Penetrating oil spray
• Paint marker
• Tape measure

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🔩 Required Parts

HowToo sells all the parts you need for this repair:

• Outer tie rod end - Qty: 1
• Cotter pin (tie rod end) - Qty: 1
• Anti-seize compound - Qty: 1

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📋 Before You Begin

• Park on level ground, steering wheel centered, and set the parking brake.
• Spray penetrating oil on the tie rod jam nut and the tie rod end nut at the knuckle; let it soak 5–10 minutes.
• Plan on getting a professional alignment after the repair. This job can “get you close,” but it won’t be perfect without an alignment rack.

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🔨 Step-by-Step Instructions

Follow these steps in order:

Step 1: Loosen the wheel lug nuts

• Use a 21mm socket and breaker bar to loosen the front wheel lug nuts about 1/2 turn (do not remove yet).

Step 2: Lift and support the front corner

• Use a floor jack to lift the front corner you’re working on.
• Place jack stands under a solid front support point and gently lower onto the stands.
• Remove the wheel using the 21mm socket.

Step 3: Mark your “starting point” (helps keep alignment close)

• Use a wire brush to clean the threads near the jam nut so you can see what you’re doing.
• Use a paint marker to mark the position of the jam nut relative to the inner tie rod.
• Measure and record the distance from a fixed point on the inner tie rod to the center of the tie rod end stud using a tape measure. This helps keep toe close.
• Also count how many turns it takes to remove the tie rod end (you’ll install the new one with the same turns).

Step 4: Loosen the jam nut

• The jam nut is the lock nut that “locks” the tie rod end position.
• Hold the tie rod end body with a 17mm wrench or adjustable wrench (as needed) and loosen the jam nut using the other wrench.
• Back the jam nut off 1–2 turns, but don’t move it far.

Step 5: Remove the cotter pin and loosen the stud nut

• Straighten and remove the cotter pin using needle-nose pliers (cut it with diagonal cutters if it’s too rusty). Discard it.
• Use a 17mm socket (common) to remove the tie rod end nut from the steering knuckle. (If your nut size differs, use the socket that fits snugly.)

Step 6: Separate the tie rod end from the steering knuckle

• Install a tie rod end puller (specialty) over the joint and tighten it until the stud “pops” free.
• A tie rod puller is a tool that pushes the stud out without damaging the rubber boot.

Step 7: Remove the old tie rod end

• Spin the tie rod end off the inner tie rod by hand, counting the turns as you remove it.
• Write the number down.

Step 8: Install the new tie rod end

• Apply a thin film of anti-seize compound to the inner tie rod threads.
• Thread the new tie rod end on using the same number of turns you counted during removal.
• Insert the tie rod end stud into the steering knuckle.
• Install the stud nut using a 17mm socket and snug it down.
• Torque to OEM specification with a torque wrench, then align the nut’s castle slots (if equipped) and install a new cotter pin using needle-nose pliers. Never reuse the old cotter pin.

Step 9: Tighten the jam nut

• Hold the tie rod end body with a 17mm wrench or adjustable wrench.
• Tighten the jam nut against the tie rod end using the matching wrench.
• Torque to OEM specification with a torque wrench if you have a crowfoot adapter available; otherwise tighten firmly and re-check after a short drive. Don’t over-tighten and strip threads.

Step 10: Reinstall the wheel and lower the car

• Reinstall the wheel using a 21mm socket.
• Lower the vehicle off the jack stands using the floor jack.
• Torque to OEM specification for the lug nuts using a torque wrench, tightening in a star pattern.

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✅ After Repair

• Start the car and turn the steering wheel lock-to-lock slowly to confirm smooth movement and no binding.
• Road test at low speed first; listen for clunks and verify the steering wheel is close to centered.
• Get a 4-wheel alignment as soon as possible. Even a small toe change can wear tires quickly.
• Re-check the jam nut area for movement after 25–50 miles.

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💰 DIY vs Shop Cost

Shop Cost: $200-$450 (parts + labor + alignment)

DIY Cost: $35-$120 (parts only)

You Save: $165-$330 by doing it yourself!

Shop labor rates vary but typically run $100-$150/hour. This repair takes a shop approximately 1.0-1.5 hours.

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🎯 Ready to get started?

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