🔧 Accent - Outer Tie Rod End Replacement

The outer tie rod end connects your steering rack to the steering knuckle at the wheel. Replacing it restores tight steering and corrects looseness or clunking, but you’ll still need an alignment afterward because toe angle changes.

Difficulty Level: Intermediate | Estimated Time: 1-2 hours (per side)

Assumption: standard factory-style hardware; torque values listed are typical—verify if you have service data.

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⚠️ Safety & Precautions

• 🛑 Support your Accent with jack stands—never rely on a floor jack.
• 🧤 Wear gloves and safety glasses; rust and cotter pins are sharp.
• 🔥 If you drive beforehand, let brakes/suspension cool before working.
• 🧭 Plan on a professional alignment after replacement to prevent tire wear.

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🔧 Required Tools

You'll need the following tools for this repair:

• Floor jack (rated 2-ton minimum)
• Jack stands (rated 2-ton minimum)
• Wheel chocks
• 21mm socket
• Breaker bar
• Torque wrench (10-150 ft-lbs range)
• Needle-nose pliers
• Diagonal cutters
• 17mm socket
• 22mm open-end wrench
• Tie rod end puller (specialty)
• Hammer
• Penetrating oil
• Wire brush
• Paint marker
• Tape measure
• Safety glasses
• Mechanic gloves

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🔩 Required Parts

HowToo sells all the parts you need for this repair:

• Outer tie rod end - Qty: 1
• Cotter pin (tie rod end) - Qty: 1
• Anti-seize compound - Qty: 1

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📋 Before You Begin

• Park on level ground, put the transmission in 1st gear, and set the parking brake.
• Place wheel chocks behind the rear wheels.
• Turn the steering wheel so the tie rod end you’re replacing is easy to reach.
• Pro tip: Spray fasteners with penetrating oil now.

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🔨 Step-by-Step Instructions

Follow these steps in order:

Step 1: Loosen the wheel lug nuts

• Use a 21mm socket and breaker bar to loosen the lug nuts about 1 turn while the tire is on the ground.

Step 2: Raise and support the front end

• Lift the front with a floor jack at the front jacking point.
• Set the car onto jack stands at the approved support points.
• Remove the wheel using the 21mm socket.

Step 3: Mark and measure for a close toe setting

• Use a wire brush to clean the exposed threads on the tie rod.
• Use a paint marker to mark the position of the jam nut (the lock nut that holds adjustment).
• Use a tape measure to record the distance from the jam nut to the end of the threads (or note thread count).
• Pro tip: Also count turns when removing the old end.

Step 4: Loosen the jam nut

• Hold the tie rod end body steady if needed, then use a 22mm open-end wrench to break the jam nut loose (turn it counterclockwise).
• Only loosen it 1-2 turns; don’t move it far yet.

Step 5: Remove the cotter pin and castle nut

• Straighten and remove the cotter pin using needle-nose pliers and diagonal cutters.
• Remove the castle nut using a 17mm socket.
• If the nut is stubborn, apply penetrating oil and try again with the breaker bar.

Step 6: Separate the tie rod end from the steering knuckle

• Install a tie rod end puller (specialty) and tighten it until the stud “pops” free.
• If needed, lightly strike the side of the knuckle boss with a hammer to help release the taper.
• Pro tip: Hit the knuckle, not the stud threads.

Step 7: Remove the old tie rod end (count the turns)

• Spin the tie rod end off the inner tie rod by hand, counting each full turn.
• Write the number down; you’ll install the new one with the same number of turns.

Step 8: Install the new tie rod end

• Apply a light coat of anti-seize compound to the threads (avoid the stud and boot).
• Thread the new tie rod end on the same number of turns you counted during removal.
• Line up the stud with the steering knuckle and seat it fully.

Step 9: Tighten the tie rod end nut and install a new cotter pin

• Tighten the castle nut using a torque wrench and 17mm socket: Torque to 35-45 Nm (26-33 ft-lbs).
• Align the castle nut slot with the hole (tighten slightly more if needed—do not loosen to align).
• Install a new cotter pin using needle-nose pliers and bend the ends over securely.

Step 10: Tighten the jam nut

• Hold the tie rod end so it doesn’t rotate, then tighten the jam nut using a 22mm open-end wrench: Torque to 55-75 Nm (41-55 ft-lbs).
• Make sure the tie rod end boot is not twisted.

Step 11: Reinstall the wheel

• Install the wheel and hand-tighten the lug nuts.
• Lower the car off the jack stands using the floor jack.
• Tighten lug nuts in a star pattern using a torque wrench and 21mm socket: Torque to 90-110 Nm (66-81 ft-lbs).

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✅ After Repair

• Turn the steering wheel lock-to-lock and confirm nothing binds or rubs.
• Road test at low speed first; verify the steering wheel is close to centered.
• Get a professional 4-wheel alignment as soon as possible to prevent tire wear.
• Recheck for looseness or noise over small bumps.

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💰 DIY vs Shop Cost

Shop Cost: $180-$350 (parts + labor + alignment)

DIY Cost: $25-$80 (parts only, alignment not included)

You Save: $100-$250 by doing it yourself!

Shop labor rates vary but typically run $100-$150/hour. This repair takes a shop approximately 1-1.5 hours.

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🎯 Ready to get started?

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