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2016 Honda Pilot
2016 Honda Pilot
EX - V6 3.5L
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HONDA PILOT Outer TIE RODS REPLACEMENT - How to Check and Replace Tie Rod Ends on a Honda Pilot

HONDA PILOT Outer TIE RODS REPLACEMENT - How to Check and Replace Tie Rod Ends on a Honda Pilot

Suggested Parts

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Tools & Fluids

3 Ton
3 Ton
Floor Jack
3 Ton
3 Ton
Jack Stands
Wheel Chocks
Wheel Chocks
22mm
22mm
Socket
or (7/8")
1/2
1/2
Breaker Bar
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How to Replace the Outer Tie Rod End on a 2016 Honda Pilot (DIY Guide)

Step-by-step instructions with required tools, parts list, torque specs, safety tips, and alignment notes

How to Replace the Outer Tie Rod End on a 2016 Honda Pilot (DIY Guide)

Step-by-step instructions with required tools, parts list, torque specs, safety tips, and alignment notes

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Orion Logo White

đź”§ Pilot - Outer Tie Rod End Replacement

The outer tie rod end connects your steering rack to the steering knuckle, and it’s a common wear item that can cause loose steering, vibration, or uneven tire wear. Replacing it is straightforward, but you’ll want to preserve the current alignment as closely as possible and then get a professional alignment afterward.

Difficulty Level: Intermediate | Estimated Time: 1-2 hours


⚠️ Safety & Precautions

  • 🛑 Support your Pilot with jack stands on solid lift points; never rely on a floor jack alone.
  • đź§± Chock the rear wheels with wheel chocks and work on level ground.
  • 🧤 Wear safety glasses and mechanic gloves; rust and metal fragments are common here.
  • đź§­ Plan on an alignment after the repair; toe setting will change if the new part isn’t installed in the exact same position.

đź”§ Required Tools

You'll need the following tools for this repair:

  • Floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum)
  • Jack stands (rated 3-ton minimum)
  • Wheel chocks
  • 22mm socket
  • 1/2" drive breaker bar
  • 1/2" drive torque wrench (20-150 ft-lbs range)
  • Combination wrench set (17mm-24mm)
  • Adjustable wrench (12")
  • Pliers
  • Hammer (16 oz)
  • Tie rod end puller (specialty)
  • Penetrating oil
  • Paint marker
  • Tape measure
  • Wire brush
  • Mechanic gloves
  • Safety glasses

🔩 Required Parts

HowToo sells all the parts you need for this repair:

  • Outer tie rod end - Qty: 1
  • Cotter pin (new) - Qty: 1
  • Anti-seize compound - Qty: 1

đź“‹ Before You Begin

  • Park on level ground, center the steering wheel, and remove the key.
  • Chock the rear wheels with wheel chocks.
  • Use paint marker to mark the tie rod end position against the jam nut.
  • Measure and write down either: the exposed thread length using a tape measure, or the exact number of turns it takes to remove the old tie rod end.
  • Penetrating oil helps a lot on rust.

🔨 Step-by-Step Instructions

Follow these steps in order:

Step 1: Loosen the lug nuts

  • Use a 22mm socket and breaker bar to crack the front wheel lug nuts loose 1/2 turn (do not remove yet).

Step 2: Lift and support the front corner

  • Lift the front corner with a floor jack.
  • Set the vehicle securely on jack stands.
  • Remove the wheel using a 22mm socket.

Step 3: Loosen the tie rod jam nut

  • Clean the threads with a wire brush and apply penetrating oil.
  • Hold the inner tie rod with an adjustable wrench (12") (or correct-size wrench from your combination wrench set).
  • Turn the jam nut counterclockwise with a combination wrench to loosen it a turn or two.

Step 4: Remove the cotter pin and loosen the castle nut

  • Straighten and remove the cotter pin using pliers.
  • Loosen and remove the tie rod end castle nut using the correctly sized combination wrench.
  • Never reuse the old cotter pin.

Step 5: Separate the tie rod end from the steering knuckle

  • Install a tie rod end puller (specialty) and tighten it until the stud pops free (a puller is a clamp-style tool that presses the stud out without damaging threads).
  • If needed, tap the side of the knuckle boss with a hammer (16 oz) while keeping tension on the puller.

Step 6: Remove the old tie rod end (count turns)

  • Spin the outer tie rod end off by hand and count the exact number of turns it takes to come off.
  • Write the number down.

Step 7: Install the new tie rod end

  • Apply a light coat of anti-seize compound to the threads.
  • Thread the new tie rod end on using the same number of turns as removal.
  • Line up your paint marks so it sits in the same position as before.

Step 8: Attach the stud and torque fasteners

  • Insert the tie rod end stud into the knuckle.
  • Install the castle nut by hand, then tighten using a torque wrench and correct-size socket/wrench.
  • Torque to 49 Nm (36 ft-lbs), then tighten further only as needed to align the cotter pin hole.
  • Install a new cotter pin and bend it over with pliers.
  • Hold the inner tie rod with an adjustable wrench (12") and tighten the jam nut with a torque wrench.
  • Torque to 44 Nm (33 ft-lbs).

Step 9: Reinstall the wheel

  • Install the wheel and hand-start lug nuts using a 22mm socket.
  • Lower the Pilot off the jack stands using the floor jack.
  • Tighten lug nuts in a star pattern with a torque wrench.
  • Torque to 127 Nm (94 ft-lbs).

âś… After Repair

  • Start the engine and turn the steering wheel lock-to-lock while parked; confirm there’s no binding or clicking.
  • Test drive at low speed first; verify the steering wheel is close to centered and the vehicle tracks straight.
  • Schedule a 4-wheel alignment as soon as possible to prevent tire wear.
  • Recheck the tie rod castle nut cotter pin after the test drive (visual check only).

đź’° DIY vs Shop Cost

Shop Cost: $250-$550 (parts + labor + alignment)

DIY Cost: $35-$120 (parts only)

You Save: $130-$430 by doing it yourself!

Shop labor rates vary but typically run $100-$150/hour. This repair takes a shop approximately 1.0-1.5 hours.


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