🔧 Regal - Outer Tie Rod End Replacement

The outer tie rod end connects your steering rack to the steering knuckle. Replacing a worn one restores tight steering and helps prevent uneven tire wear. You’ll also need a wheel alignment after this job, because toe setting changes.

Difficulty Level: Intermediate | Estimated Time: 1-2 hours (plus alignment)

Assumption: OE-style outer tie rod end; common GM fastener sizes/torques.

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⚠️ Safety & Precautions

• 🧯 Support your Regal with jack stands; never rely on a floor jack.
• 🧤 Keep fingers clear of pinch points while separating the joint.
• 🛞 Chock the rear wheels and leave the transmission in P.
• ⚠️ Do not hammer directly on the steering knuckle studs/threads.
• 📏 Get a professional alignment after replacement to avoid tire wear.

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🔧 Required Tools

You'll need the following tools for this repair:

• Floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum)
• Jack stands (rated 3-ton minimum)
• Wheel chocks
• 19mm socket
• 1/2" drive breaker bar
• 1/2" drive torque wrench (20-200 Nm range)
• 18mm socket
• 24mm open-end wrench
• 15mm open-end wrench
• Needle-nose pliers
• Tie rod end puller (specialty)
• Wire brush
• Paint marker
• Penetrating oil
• Safety glasses
• Mechanic gloves

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🔩 Required Parts

HowToo sells all the parts you need for this repair:

• Outer tie rod end - Qty: 1
• Outer tie rod end nut (new self-locking nut) - Qty: 1
• Cotter pin - Qty: 1 (only if your replacement uses a castellated nut)

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📋 Before You Begin

• 🧭 Park on level ground, steering wheel straight, and set the parking brake.
• 🛞 Loosen the front wheel lug nuts slightly using a 19mm socket and breaker bar before lifting.
• 🧼 Spray penetrating oil on the tie rod end jam nut and the stud nut; wait 5-10 minutes.
• 🖊️ Use a paint marker to mark the tie rod position so you can reinstall close to the original toe setting.

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🔨 Step-by-Step Instructions

Follow these steps in order:

Step 1: Lift and remove the wheel

• Chock the rear wheels using wheel chocks.
• Lift the front corner with a floor jack and set the car on jack stands.
• Remove the wheel using a 19mm socket.

Step 2: Locate the outer tie rod end and clean threads

• Find the tie rod end at the back side of the steering knuckle.
• Clean exposed threads with a wire brush so the jam nut can turn.

Step 3: Mark and measure for a close reassembly

• Put a line across the jam nut and inner tie rod threads using a paint marker.
• Optional but helpful: measure from the jam nut to the end of the threads (write it down).

Step 4: Loosen the jam nut

• Hold the inner tie rod “flat” (a machined flat spot) with a 15mm open-end wrench.
• Loosen the jam nut using a 24mm open-end wrench by turning it counterclockwise.
• Tip: Break jam nut loose before separating joint.

Step 5: Remove the tie rod end nut at the steering knuckle

• Remove the nut from the tie rod stud using an 18mm socket.
• If your setup uses a cotter pin, straighten and remove it using needle-nose pliers before removing the nut.

Step 6: Separate the tie rod end from the knuckle

• Install a tie rod end puller (specialty) and tighten it until the tapered stud “pops” free.
• A tie rod end puller is a screw tool that pushes the stud out without damaging the rubber boot.
• Tip: Avoid pickle forks—they tear boots.

Step 7: Unscrew and count turns

• Spin the outer tie rod end off the inner tie rod while counting each full turn (example: “17 turns”).
• Write the number down; you’ll install the new one with the same turn count.

Step 8: Install the new outer tie rod end

• Screw the new outer tie rod end on using the exact same number of turns you counted.
• Line up the stud with the steering knuckle hole and seat it fully by hand.
• Install the new nut and tighten using an 18mm socket.
• Torque to 55 Nm (41 ft-lbs) + 60° turn.
• If your replacement uses a cotter pin: tighten to the specified torque, then continue tightening only enough to align the slot and install a new cotter pin using needle-nose pliers.

Step 9: Tighten the jam nut

• Hold the inner tie rod with a 15mm open-end wrench.
• Tighten the jam nut against the new tie rod end using a 24mm open-end wrench.
• Torque to 75 Nm (55 ft-lbs).

Step 10: Reinstall the wheel and lower the car

• Reinstall the wheel using a 19mm socket.
• Lower the Regal off the jack stands using the floor jack.
• Tighten lug nuts in a star pattern using a torque wrench.
• Torque to 140 Nm (103 ft-lbs).

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✅ After Repair

• 🧪 Road test at low speed first; confirm the steering wheel is centered and there are no clunks.
• 👀 Recheck the tie rod stud nut and jam nut for tightness after the test drive.
• 📐 Schedule a 4-wheel alignment as soon as possible (same day is best).
• 🛞 Watch for uneven tire wear until alignment is done.

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💰 DIY vs Shop Cost

Shop Cost: $250-$450 (parts + labor, often + alignment)

DIY Cost: $40-$120 (parts only, alignment extra)

You Save: $130-$300 by doing it yourself!

Shop labor rates vary but typically run $100-$150/hour. This repair takes a shop approximately 1.0-1.5 hours.

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🎯 Ready to get started?

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