🔧 LaCrosse - Outer Tie Rod End Replacement

The outer tie rod end connects your steering rack to the steering knuckle at the wheel. Replacing it restores tight steering and fixes play or torn boots, but you’ll still need an alignment afterward to prevent tire wear.

Difficulty Level: Intermediate | Estimated Time: 1-2 hours (one side)

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⚠️ Safety & Precautions

• 🛑 Support the car on jack stands; never rely on a jack alone.
• 🛑 Keep hands clear while separating the joint (it can “pop” loose suddenly).
• 🛑 Do not drive far without an alignment; toe angle will be off and can chew tires fast.
• 🛑 If equipped with a cotter pin, always replace it with a new one.

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🔧 Required Tools

You'll need the following tools for this repair:

• Wheel chocks
• Floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum)
• Jack stands (rated 3-ton minimum)
• Lug wrench or 19mm socket
• Socket set (8mm-21mm)
• Wrench set (13mm-24mm)
• Torque wrench (10-200 Nm range)
• Needle-nose pliers
• Side cutters
• Hammer (16 oz)
• Tie rod end puller (specialty)
• Penetrating oil
• Paint marker
• Tape measure
• Safety glasses
• Mechanic gloves

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🔩 Required Parts

HowToo sells all the parts you need for this repair:

• Outer tie rod end - Qty: 1
• Cotter pin (tie rod end) - Qty: 1
• Jam nut (outer tie rod lock nut) - Qty: 1 (recommended)
• Chassis grease (if the replacement has a grease fitting) - Qty: 1

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📋 Before You Begin

• 🧰 Park on level ground, steering wheel straight, and place wheel chocks behind the rear tires.
• 🧰 Break the front wheel lug nuts loose slightly using a lug wrench or 19mm socket before lifting.
• 🧰 Take a quick photo of the tie rod/jam nut area so you can match the position during reassembly.

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🔨 Step-by-Step Instructions

Follow these steps in order:

Assumption: This is the common “outer” tie rod end at the wheel. Torque values can vary by knuckle/fastener style; if your new part or service info lists different specs, use those.

Step 1: Lift and remove the front wheel

• Use a floor jack to lift the front corner at the proper jacking point.
• Set the car down securely on jack stands.
• Remove the lug nuts using a lug wrench or 19mm socket, then remove the wheel.

Step 2: Mark the alignment reference

• Spray the jam nut and threads with penetrating oil.
• Use a paint marker to mark a line across the jam nut and the inner tie rod threads.
• Use a tape measure to measure from the center of the tie-rod stud to the jam nut and write it down. This helps keep toe close.

Step 3: Loosen the jam nut

• Hold the inner tie rod (or the flats on the outer tie rod body, if provided) with an appropriate wrench.
• Use a second wrench to loosen the jam nut by turning it counterclockwise (do not remove it yet).

Step 4: Remove the tie rod end nut and cotter pin (if equipped)

• If there is a cotter pin through the stud nut, straighten and remove it using needle-nose pliers and side cutters.
• Remove the tie rod end nut using the correct socket or wrench.

Step 5: Separate the tie rod end from the steering knuckle

• Install a tie rod end puller (specialty) and tighten it until the stud pops free. (A tie rod puller is a clamp-style tool that presses the stud out without damaging threads.)
• If needed, tap the side of the knuckle boss lightly with a hammer (16 oz) while the puller is under tension.

Step 6: Remove the old outer tie rod end (count turns)

• Spin the outer tie rod end off the inner tie rod by hand.
• Count the exact number of turns it takes to remove it, and write the number down. This is your “close alignment” setting.

Step 7: Install the new outer tie rod end

• Thread the new tie rod end on by hand the same number of turns you counted.
• Line up your paint marker marks and/or match your tape measure reference as closely as possible.
• Insert the stud into the steering knuckle.

Step 8: Tighten the tie rod end nut and install a new cotter pin (if used)

• Tighten the tie rod end stud nut using a torque wrench and correct socket: Torque to 50 Nm (37 ft-lbs), then tighten further only as needed to align the cotter pin hole.
• Install a new cotter pin using needle-nose pliers and bend the ends over securely.

Step 9: Tighten the jam nut

• Hold the tie rod end with a wrench so it doesn’t rotate.
• Tighten the jam nut using a torque wrench and correct wrench: Torque to 55 Nm (41 ft-lbs).

Step 10: Reinstall the wheel and lower the car

• Reinstall the wheel and hand-thread the lug nuts.
• Lower the car off the jack stands using the floor jack.
• Tighten lug nuts in a star pattern using a torque wrench: Torque to 140 Nm (103 ft-lbs).

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✅ After Repair

• 🧪 Start the car and turn the steering wheel lock-to-lock while parked; listen for clunks and confirm the boot isn’t twisted.
• 🧪 Road test at low speed first, then normal speed; the steering wheel may be slightly off-center.
• 🧪 Get a 4-wheel alignment as soon as possible (same day is best).
• 🧪 If your new tie rod end has a grease fitting, add grease using the product directions (do not overfill).

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💰 DIY vs Shop Cost

Shop Cost: $180-$350 (parts + labor + alignment)

DIY Cost: $25-$90 (parts only)

You Save: $90-$260 by doing it yourself!

Shop labor rates vary but typically run $100-$150/hour. This repair takes a shop approximately 1.0-1.5 hours.

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🎯 Ready to get started?

HowToo makes it easy: same-day/2-day shipping on every part, plus all the tools and specialty tools you need! Check out the parts and tools sections below to add everything to your cart.