🔧 Impreza - Outer Tie Rod End Replacement

The outer tie rod end connects your steering rack to the front wheel knuckle. Replacing it restores tight steering and removes looseness or clunking caused by a worn joint.

Difficulty Level: Intermediate | Estimated Time: 1.5-3.0 hours

Assumption: Front outer tie rod end replacement on a stock suspension.

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⚠️ Safety & Precautions

• ⚠️ Support the car with jack stands; never rely on a jack.
• ⚠️ Keep hands clear when separating the joint; parts can release suddenly.
• ⚠️ Do not rotate the steering wheel with the tie rod disconnected.
• ⚠️ You will need a professional alignment after this repair to prevent tire wear.
• 🔋 Battery disconnect is not required for this job.

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🔧 Required Tools

You'll need the following tools for this repair:

• Floor jack (rated 2-ton minimum)
• Jack stands (rated 2-ton minimum)
• Wheel chocks
• Safety glasses
• Nitrile gloves
• Breaker bar (1/2" drive)
• Torque wrench (10–150 ft-lbs range)
• 19mm socket
• 1/2" drive ratchet
• Open-end wrench set (17mm, 19mm, 22mm)
• Pliers
• Side cutters
• Tie rod end puller (specialty)
• Penetrating oil
• Wire brush
• Paint marker
• Tape measure

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🔩 Required Parts

HowToo sells all the parts you need for this repair:

• Outer tie rod end - Qty: 1
• Cotter pin (new) - Qty: 1
• Anti-seize compound - Qty: 1

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📋 Before You Begin

• Park on level ground, put the transmission in 1st gear, and set the parking brake.
• Place wheel chocks behind the rear wheels.
• Crack the front wheel lug nuts loose before lifting the car.
• Spray penetrating oil on the tie rod jam nut and the tie rod end nut threads.

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🔨 Step-by-Step Instructions

Follow these steps in order:

Step 1: Lift and remove the front wheel

• Use a 19mm socket and breaker bar to loosen lug nuts 1/2 turn.
• Lift the front corner using a floor jack (rated 2-ton minimum) at the pinch weld/jacking point.
• Set the car onto jack stands (rated 2-ton minimum).
• Remove the lug nuts with a 19mm socket and take the wheel off.

Step 2: Mark and measure the current tie rod position

• Use a paint marker to mark the tie rod end position relative to the inner tie rod threads.
• Use a tape measure to measure from the center of the tie rod end stud to a fixed point on the inner tie rod/jam nut area, and write it down.
• This helps keep toe close for the drive to alignment.

Step 3: Remove the cotter pin from the tie rod end nut

• Use pliers to straighten the cotter pin legs.
• Use side cutters or pliers to pull the cotter pin out.
• If it’s rusty, use a wire brush and more penetrating oil.

Step 4: Loosen (but don’t remove) the jam nut

• Use an open-end wrench (commonly 19mm or 22mm) to loosen the jam nut behind the tie rod end.
• Turn it back about 1–2 turns only.

Step 5: Remove the tie rod end nut from the knuckle

• Use an open-end wrench (commonly 17mm) to remove the castle nut from the tie rod end stud.
• Keep note of any washer/orientation if present.

Step 6: Separate the tie rod end from the steering knuckle

• Install a tie rod end puller (specialty) and tighten it until the stud pops free. A tie rod puller is a clamp-style tool that presses the stud out without hammering.
• If needed, re-apply penetrating oil and try again.
• Do not strike the threaded stud directly.

Step 7: Unscrew the old tie rod end (count turns)

• Rotate the tie rod end off the inner tie rod by hand.
• Count the exact number of turns it takes to remove (example: 16.5 turns). Write it down.

Step 8: Install the new tie rod end

• Apply a light coat of anti-seize compound to the inner tie rod threads.
• Screw the new tie rod end on using the same number of turns you counted.
• Line up your paint marker mark and/or your tape measure measurement as closely as possible.

Step 9: Reconnect the tie rod end to the knuckle and torque

• Insert the stud into the steering knuckle.
• Install the castle nut by hand, then tighten using an open-end wrench (commonly 17mm).
• Torque to 45 Nm (33 ft-lbs), then tighten further only as needed to align the cotter pin hole with the castle nut slot.
• Install a new cotter pin and bend the legs using pliers.

Step 10: Tighten the jam nut

• Hold the tie rod end body with an open-end wrench and tighten the jam nut against it.
• Torque to 55 Nm (41 ft-lbs).

Step 11: Reinstall the wheel and torque lug nuts

• Reinstall the wheel and hand-thread lug nuts.
• Lower the car off the jack stands using the floor jack.
• Use a torque wrench with a 19mm socket to tighten lug nuts in a star pattern: Torque to 120 Nm (88.5 ft-lbs).

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✅ After Repair

• Start the car and turn the steering wheel lock-to-lock slowly to confirm nothing binds or rubs.
• Road-test at low speed first; verify the steering wheel is centered and there’s no clunk.
• Get a 4-wheel alignment as soon as possible (same day is best).
• Recheck the jam nut and look for a missing/loose cotter pin after the test drive.

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💰 DIY vs Shop Cost

Shop Cost: $220-$450 (parts + labor + typical alignment)

DIY Cost: $35-$120 (parts only)

You Save: $100-$300 by doing it yourself!

Shop labor rates vary but typically run $100-$150/hour. This repair takes a shop approximately 1.0-1.5 hours.

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🎯 Ready to get started?

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